Random issue finally on video

Waterfowler41 · September 5, 2017

Any of you guys ever have this issue with your trucks? Literally nothing works in the truck for a good 15 minutes. Brought it in a few times but I can never replicate the issue at the dealership. Battery is less than a year old.

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Colossus · September 6, 2017

Had that issue on my 2007 Sierra that I got new at the time. Happened a few times when driving, (engine still ran but everything else went dark) and a few times when I went to put the key in to start the thing. One time I had it towed in. Only thing was that when they took it off the tow truck, it started up and ran just fine and they could not duplicate the issue and I got stuck with the tow bill while the thing was still under warranty. They checked the grounds and could not find any reason it would be doing that. I ended up trading it in for an 08 Duramax later on even though the thing still had the issue that was never found. I think others on here who have had the same issue found the problem to usually be a bad ground somewhere or replaced wires somewhere.

Justin101714 · September 6, 2017

Have the battery cables changed. [emoji1417]

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SuperSierra · September 6, 2017

I would look at the terminals. I don't think it's the anti theft.

This would make me upset as well

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Waterfowler41 · September 6, 2017

Had that issue on my 2007 Sierra that I got new at the time. Happened a few times when driving, (engine still ran but everything else went dark) and a few times when I went to put the key in to start the thing. One time I had it towed in. Only thing was that when they took it off the tow truck, it started up and ran just fine and they could not duplicate the issue and I got stuck with the tow bill while the thing was still under warranty. They checked the grounds and could not find any reason it would be doing that. I ended up trading it in for an 08 Duramax later on even though the thing still had the issue that was never found. I think others on here who have had the same issue found the problem to usually be a bad ground somewhere or replaced wires somewhere.

I printed the TSB procedure (PIT5405B) for checking the grounds. Going to take a stab at it this weekend. The ground in the dash was fine, but I believe there are a few others and a heat shield that need to be checked. The problem is the truck shuts off for a very consistent amount of time every time this happens so if it was a bad ground I would assume it would come back at different time intervals. Appears my truck craps out for 10 minutes on the dot every time.

Have the battery cables changed. [emoji1417]

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Will do!

I would look at the terminals. I don't think it's the anti theft.

This would make me upset as well

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If it was the terminals this would be more short term, but when my car goes into this mode, it shuts down for 10 minutes every time. Wiggling the terminals on the battery do nothing. The time between when it konks out and when the dash lights back up is always the same amount of time which is why I think it goes into a Theft deterrent mode.

SuperSierra · September 6, 2017

I printed the TSB procedure (PIT5405B) for checking the grounds. Going to take a stab at it this weekend. The ground in the dash was fine, but I believe there are a few others and a heat shield that need to be checked. The problem is the truck shuts off for a very consistent amount of time every time this happens so if it was a bad ground I would assume it would come back at different time intervals. Appears my truck craps out for 10 minutes on the dot every time.

Will do!

If it was the terminals this would be more short term, but when my car goes into this mode, it shuts down for 10 minutes every time. Wiggling the terminals on the battery do nothing. The time between when it konks out and when the dash lights back up is always the same amount of time which is why I think it goes into a Theft deterrent mode.

I don't think the Gm trucks have this but

on my jeep I had a similar problem getting it to start it was because of the chip inside the key was dying. I turned the key and nothing would happen, but with only one set of my keys.

I hope you figure it out.

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mookdoc6 · September 6, 2017

I don't think the Gm trucks have this but

on my jeep I had a similar problem getting it to start it was because of the chip inside the key was dying. I turned the key and nothing would happen, but with only one set of my keys.

I hope you figure it out.

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I had same type of thing happen with a GM car on me.......If I remember it was the keys too

Waterfowler41 · September 6, 2017

I had same type of thing happen with a GM car on me.......If I remember it was the keys too

I tried both keys...still issue. In the tsb there is a process to check the cable connecting to the started solenoid. Will report back after I find that cable and check it. Looks like if there is an issue with it, it's usually pretty easy to see

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sk · September 6, 2017

Have the battery cables changed. [emoji1417]

Listen to Justin. There is a TSB for Techs to check the voltage drop through the positive battery cables. If there is too much drop the BCM goes wacko and creates a LOT of electrical problems/codes.

Waterfowler41 · September 6, 2017

Listen to Justin. There is a TSB for Techs to check the voltage drop through the positive battery cables. If there is too much drop the BCM goes wacko and creates a LOT of electrical problems/codes.

What's an acceptable voltage drop? A couple videos I saw said 0.2 or less.

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Justin101714 · September 6, 2017

What's an acceptable voltage drop? A couple videos I saw said 0.2 or less.

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Don't bother with the voltage drop test. Yes it's a good test. But I've done enough of these to be confident in just replacing them.

Even if you had keys that weren't learned to the vehicle and the key cut was right to turn the lock cylinder, the truck would still turn on all the accessories. It just wouldn't start, set a theft deterrent DTC. There's not even a bulletin for this particular problem, it's just a known Issue. Basically, a bulletin can't be made because no one is accepting fault with the product and there's no evidence of incorrect manufacture. There's no one to blame. So who covers the replacement, if it's under warranty it can be snuck through for GM to pay.

If it's hard accepting the price of the cables. Start with the negative cable first. The negative cable is a new design and is routed differently to new ground location. This information will not come with the cable. There's a hole on the right side of the engine block it's under the exhaust manifold, you must use a new bolt as well.

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