Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Add me to the list. My 2017 double cab 1500 started making this noise recently. I'm not sure how long its been happening, because I usually drive with the radio on. Last week, I had the radio off because me and my passenger were having a conversation, and we kept stopping to listen to what sounded like tennis balls bouncing around in the truck bed. She actually asked me if I had something rattling around back there.

 

In the time since, I've traced it to what appear to be shock related. It is only noticeable at very low speeds 5-10kmh and when going over uneven road or bumps. When you listen to it, its more of a popping or rubbing sound. It seems to be exacerbated by turning. My guess was leaf springs or shocks. Reading this and other forum posts seems to support that theory.

 

My work has a pretty highly critical emergency standby component, so I have to wait until I'm off rotation before I take it in. Its one of the reasons I spend money on a new vehicle, because I needed something reliable. I appear to have negated the reliability advantage of a new vehicle by choosing to purchase a GM product.

 

I'll report back after my dealership invariably brushes me off (I've discovered this is S.O.P for GM) and I have to start troubleshooting my brand new vehicle on my own.

Posted

I bought a 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab and have had all the same back end issues. Been to the dealer 7 times to “fix” the problem. Never once have they looked into greasing the springs or anything. To be quite honest, it scares me to haul my horse with this thing. The noise sounds like the back end is going to drop off it is so loud now. Sincerely disappointed in buying this vehicle and if they don’t fix soon, I will never buy a Chevy again. 

Posted
I bought a 2017 Silverado 1500 double cab and have had all the same back end issues. Been to the dealer 7 times to “fix” the problem. Never once have they looked into greasing the springs or anything. To be quite honest, it scares me to haul my horse with this thing. The noise sounds like the back end is going to drop off it is so loud now. Sincerely disappointed in buying this vehicle and if they don’t fix soon, I will never buy a Chevy again. 

Been to dealership 7x for same issue??? Check your states lemon law


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Problem with that is the problem went undiagnosed for the same problem the first 5 times. It only applies if they diagnose the issue and can’t resolve it. 

Posted
On 8/4/2018 at 12:12 AM, Baytrucker said:

Add me to the list. My 2017 double cab 1500 started making this noise recently. I'm not sure how long its been happening, because I usually drive with the radio on. Last week, I had the radio off because me and my passenger were having a conversation, and we kept stopping to listen to what sounded like tennis balls bouncing around in the truck bed. She actually asked me if I had something rattling around back there.

 

In the time since, I've traced it to what appear to be shock related. It is only noticeable at very low speeds 5-10kmh and when going over uneven road or bumps. When you listen to it, its more of a popping or rubbing sound. It seems to be exacerbated by turning. My guess was leaf springs or shocks. Reading this and other forum posts seems to support that theory.

 

My work has a pretty highly critical emergency standby component, so I have to wait until I'm off rotation before I take it in. Its one of the reasons I spend money on a new vehicle, because I needed something reliable. I appear to have negated the reliability advantage of a new vehicle by choosing to purchase a GM product.

 

I'll report back after my dealership invariably brushes me off (I've discovered this is S.O.P for GM) and I have to start troubleshooting my brand new vehicle on my own.

My 2014 did this during the brief period I owned it. I believe it’s the fuel sloshing around in the tank.  It’s like Chevy didn’t put the correct baffles in the tank if you ask me.  Next time you have a full tank of fuel, see if it does it.  I noticed it was at its worst from 1/2 tank to 1/4 tank.

Posted

So I took it into the dealer. They acknowledged the noise. They searched for bulletins and found one on this issue. The bulletin said to re-torque the u-bolts on the leafs and lubricate with a "special" type of lubricant.

 

The noise is mostly gone for now. There are still traces of it of a creak, but I have a feeling I'm going to be back in the dealer in a few months time. I've got 9000K on the truck currently.

 

There are no lemon laws in Canada. If it happens repeatedly, I'll take it to CAMVAP. The problem goes back to 2014. How has GM not fixed this yet?

 

GM has already officially acknowledged this is a problem. After all, they issued a bulletin on it. A car company does not issue bulletins on normal car behavior. So if they try to claim that this is a "normal" noise as they have with other customers, it helps that they have already put into writing that the noise is not normal. I will fight it when the noise pops up again. I encourage others to do the same.

Posted

Same issue here on my 17 Sierra Elevation edition. Took it to the dealer twice first time lubed the leaf springs did nothing. Second time said it’s coming from rear diff and called GM and they told dealer it was normal and nothing needs to be done. Said that trucks always made that noise and it’s just the cab is so quiet now LOL! Explained I’ve owned trucks in the past and never had that noise. Then called GM and the incompetent prick basically called the dealer and told me that I’m SOL because they say it’s normal and nothing g can be done. It’s so annoying when I’m driving at low speeds I can’t stand it. Can someone give some advice on the leaf springs with inner tube idea? I will try that and see if it fixes the issue. I agree a class action lawsuit may get GM to buck up and stop being cheap about fixing a brand new truck. We pay far too much for these to have issues at 25k miles!! 

 

Let me me know about the leaf springs but mine is when you push on the back rear of the truck it’s a thumping/grinding sound... may be rear diff, may be leaf springs not exactly sure 

Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, Christopher Charles said:

Same issue here on my 17 Sierra Elevation edition. Took it to the dealer twice first time lubed the leaf springs did nothing. Second time said it’s coming from rear diff and called GM and they told dealer it was normal and nothing needs to be done. Said that trucks always made that noise and it’s just the cab is so quiet now LOL! Explained I’ve owned trucks in the past and never had that noise. Then called GM and the incompetent prick basically called the dealer and told me that I’m SOL because they say it’s normal and nothing g can be done. It’s so annoying when I’m driving at low speeds I can’t stand it. Can someone give some advice on the leaf springs with inner tube idea? I will try that and see if it fixes the issue. I agree a class action lawsuit may get GM to buck up and stop being cheap about fixing a brand new truck. We pay far too much for these to have issues at 25k miles!! 

 

Let me me know about the leaf springs but mine is when you push on the back rear of the truck it’s a thumping/grinding sound... may be rear diff, may be leaf springs not exactly sure 

17 Elevation Double is what I have too. Looks like we are in the same boat.

 

Let me make one thing clear. GM is hoping you are going to quietly go away. Don't quietly go away!

 

GM has already officially acknowledged this as a problem. The bulletin on this issue is 09-03-09-001D "Clunking Noise from Rear of Vehicle (Re-torque Leaf Spring Bolts) ".

 

I'll repeat again. GM has already officially acknowledged this as a problem. They do not issue service bulletins for "normal" vehicle noises.

 

The service bulletin does have a recommended resolution, but in individual cases where that resolution fails, GM does not get to suddenly reclassify the noise as "normal" just to avoid more extensive repairs. They have already distributed a bulletin stating this noise is NOT normal. They don't get to unring that bell.

 

Depending on where you live, you need to initiate the dispute process appropriate for your jurisdiction. Many states have an arbitration process or agency that deals with a car companies that refuses to honor their warranty. For example, in Canada, we have CANVAP. Talk to a lawyer as well. There may be some ambulance chaser in your area willing to take your case on contingency if you are pressing for legal fees.

 

DO NOT start messing around with jury-rig fixes and inner-tubes until you have exhausted all of your legal option to hold GM's feet to the fire. They are going to use any excuse they can to avoid honoring the warranty, so don't give them any ammunition by hacking together a solution on your own.

 

As long as this conduct is tolerated and customers continue to bend over, GM will keep pulling this crap. Don't be a floor mat. Stand up and fight for your investment.

 

 

 

Edited by Baytrucker
Posted

I filed a complaint with my states attorney general. Yes they re torqued the springs and that didn’t fix the problem. If anything the thumping is louder than before. I agree I a I’ll be persistent and keep calling GM until I get this issue resolved. It’s absolute bs.... guess they don’t care about keeping customers 

Posted
36 minutes ago, Christopher Charles said:

.... guess they don’t care about keeping customers 

Of course they don't. If they don't turn a profit, the taxpayers bail them out. They are a socialized company at this point.

Posted

Took my truck in again.    They did torque and grease which they have done and seems to last for a month or two.   After two years and two trucks and telling me this is normal they final acknowledge there is a problem.     Service guy went on to say that GM is working on some type of rubber bracket or spacer as a solution  and that it will be available sometime this fall.   

 

We will see if this is actually true and resolves the problem.   If not I am going to go through lemon law process.   

 

M, 

Posted
14 hours ago, MarkRo said:

Took my truck in again.    They did torque and grease which they have done and seems to last for a month or two.   After two years and two trucks and telling me this is normal they final acknowledge there is a problem.     Service guy went on to say that GM is working on some type of rubber bracket or spacer as a solution  and that it will be available sometime this fall.   

 

We will see if this is actually true and resolves the problem.   If not I am going to go through lemon law process.   

 

M, 

I imagine the grease wears away and the noise comes right back. GM probably doesn't want to pay for the rubber inserts, plain and simple. Because people are putting inner tubes between the leaf springs, and it works, I'll do that. Most leaf springs already come with sheets of rubber between them to prevent noise...I figured my truck does too, I'll have to check. Or maybe it just needs more. But whatever you do, don't go off a service guy telling you a rubber bracket will be available in the fall. I've worked at dealers, we are in the dark as much, if not more, than the general public (regarding decisions that will be made in the future on car repair/problem fixes). GM once had an intermediate shaft issue with their cars, made a ton of noise. First they had us remove the shaft and "stroke them". It would free up the wax, problem solved for a month. Then when that didn't work they had us inject more wax into the shafts (provided a kit). That didn't work. Then we started replacing the shafts, until they realized that was costing them too much. Then it was just "normal", problem solved. 

 

I am starting to get a sort of pop/movement noise while backing out of my driveway at low speeds. I figure it's the leaf springs. I now have 10,000 miles on the truck (2018), honestly the truck has been great except for three minor things....occasional pop noise, truck fish bites until it's warmed up a little (jerks, stutters), and once in a while when I open my door I hear a relay struggling behind the dash (and it's not the sound of the electric fuel pump). Don't know what it is. Other than that? Great gas mileage, smooth power and acceleration. Quiet and straight down the road. I love the thing. I'm averaging around 25 mpg in a V8 4x4 truck.

Posted

same issue here! glad i only have 20 mths left on the lease.......so then GM can have the POS back!

 

Posted (edited)

I'm a member of the rear thunk club. I still haven't narrowed it down, but my feeling is it the suspension as others have stated. It only happens under 5mph (at least that's when I notice it) and when I go over a slight bump or backing in the garage (slight incline). Seems to be only the passenger side. 

I had the rear squeaks too, dealer cleaned and relubed the leafs, it is slowly coming back. 

It started around 10k miles.

 

The sound is different from the transmission clunk or axle clunk. Which of course I have as well. Wondering if the Yoke might be loose too.

I wish I could get my dealer to get rid of the transmission clunk.

 

'17 1500 4x4, 15k miles

Edited by Logroller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...