Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, SBAR said:

Where did you run the wires to? The interior and then to your parking lights?

 

I did. I ran wires through the little holes and fish them through the mirror housing(take off mirrors)  into the inside of the door which required me to remove the top half of a door panel. I posted a photo of where those wires come out(posted above). I added wire loom to make it look like it was part of the design as opposed to just having wires running through. From there the wires kept running through the fender which gave me access to the engine bay and tapped into the headlight parking lights. 

Posted
I did. I ran wires through the little holes and fish them through the mirror housing(take off mirrors)  into the inside of the door which required me to remove the top half of a door panel. I posted a photo of where those wires come out(posted above). I added wire loom to make it look like it was part of the design as opposed to just having wires running through. From there the wires kept running through the fender which gave me access to the engine bay and tapped into the headlight parking lights. 


Phenomenal work my friend! Looks absolutely great and I appreciate the explanation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
Posted

Figured it was better to revive this thread.

 

Here's my attempt at it. I'm undecided on the spacing. I wish I could do 5 but the outer 2 would not be convenient to mount. Thoughts?

0528182104a.jpg

Posted
On 11/18/2017 at 11:46 AM, Bvonscott said:

I’ve had lights like these installed on my truck for awhile now. Never got around to posting pictures. Don’t anybody steal my design emoji135.png‍♂️ 78560612311d02d0d4fc0a8821203194.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

lol... looks dope dude!!!!... where did you get em.. i'd love to have 3 that color match the DRL... that prurty white look!

  • 1 month later...
Posted
15 minutes ago, 17silverado2248 said:

Just got mine done. No drilling or cutting required. Hooked them up to the trailer fuse #15 in the X50a fuse box with an add a circuit. Very happy! 

578CAFB6-810C-4705-9A0D-17055A873703.jpeg

AF363976-8CF1-41AB-86CE-0D28ED2C4B8E.jpeg

Which lights did you buy? No drilling or cutting, so is it adhesive?

Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, ChristopherDB said:

Which lights did you buy? No drilling or cutting, so is it adhesive?

Yes that’s correct. You can position them any way you want on the grill and peal and stick them with weather proof 3m double side tape on to the grill. It looks very clean. I  found them on YouTube looking for amber marker lights. They come from F150led.com, search raptor style lights. You should be able to find a 10-15% off coupon. I got mine for $87 shipped. The guy does an install video on YouTube.

Edited by 17silverado2248
Posted

I did something similar to that. I went with 3 12mm bolt type from super bright led’s and cut black plastic and used job weild. I jumped them to the fuse box and they come on with the daytime running li1CB27C6E-4157-480C-BFC7-6B43211DD247.thumb.jpeg.cf62a47c7a1e9e8572a3b459fc35d847.jpegghts 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, semonscj said:

I did something similar to that. I went with 3 12mm bolt type from super bright led’s and cut black plastic and used job weild. I jumped them to the fuse box and they come on with the daytime running li1CB27C6E-4157-480C-BFC7-6B43211DD247.thumb.jpeg.cf62a47c7a1e9e8572a3b459fc35d847.jpegghts 

Look's good

Posted (edited)
On 7/6/2018 at 3:48 AM, semonscj said:

I did something similar to that. I went with 3 12mm bolt type from super bright led’s and cut black plastic and used job weild. I jumped them to the fuse box and they come on with the daytime running li1CB27C6E-4157-480C-BFC7-6B43211DD247.thumb.jpeg.cf62a47c7a1e9e8572a3b459fc35d847.jpegghts 

What I want, can you get a pic of where you tapped?. Fuse box under the hood?, Might be different in my gmc...

 

Night pic too, are they on now in this pic? I'm trying tip match my drl, and purchase d those same ones

 

Thanks homie

 

Here's my thought

 

 

468EF54D-0315-49B3-AEF4-A17AA534B646.jpeg

35389DE1-8338-4DA1-B086-2C0590C0BDFC.jpeg

Edited by Crstfr
Posted

Tapped into fuse #40. Says it is trans ign (15a). The one you are holding are the ones I got. That looks like a good place to mount them. I’ll get a pic at night when it gets dark out and post

64D7640C-24AD-4961-A759-CB578E81EF0A.jpeg

563F4AE0-09BA-483E-92AF-658D1898A654.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Looking for some input. I picked up some amber led lights and was going to integrate them into the chrome piece on both sides of the grille. Can’t decide if they should go on the outside edge or the inside edge. I’d be doing at least the 4 if not all six of the corners. The problem is the bottom two only have enough space to put them on the inner part of the chrome edge. What do you all think. Thanks for your thoughts. c1297a4cf5b3c91d6b414fbf0991e513.jpgf748132d2a6186adc85557384fe29d10.jpga1c7d015f8fb1002ffaf19e986dfa567.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
Looking for some input. I picked up some amber led lights and was going to integrate them into the chrome piece on both sides of the grille. Can’t decide if they should go on the outside edge or the inside edge. I’d be doing at least the 4 if not all six of the corners. The problem is the bottom two only have enough space to put them on the inner part of the chrome edge. What do you all think. Thanks for your thoughts. c1297a4cf5b3c91d6b414fbf0991e513.jpgf748132d2a6186adc85557384fe29d10.jpga1c7d015f8fb1002ffaf19e986dfa567.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I’d do inside, the amber light shining off the chrome above and below it would look pretty good in my opinion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,234 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...