Jump to content

1" Wheel Adapters Work! 2014 Sierra SLT


Recommended Posts

Posted
On 2/11/2018 at 7:26 PM, SILVER SLED said:

lol.  It never stops.  Good looking truck

Ha.   No kidding.  Been through it with a 2003 Z71.  2006 Duramax, this truck and years ago a Camaro SS 

Posted
On 2/11/2018 at 4:14 PM, 14WhiteZ71 said:

Did you decide one which you were going to do ??     I like the looks of mine with 1”, but for some reason over the last week or two, I’ve found myself wondering if I would like 1.25” better.....

I haven't decided.  Unfortunately finances are going to be going in a different direction for the next year or so.  Saving pennies to pay for my wedding.  

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I bought a set of Bora 1.5" spacers and the 20" LTZ wheels I have won't work. The studs hit the wheel. Kicking myself for not knowing I needed at least a 1.75" for these wheels. Crazy that the OP was able to use 1" spacers and have them clear the wheel. Looks good!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 5/13/2018 at 12:09 AM, michigan2500hd said:

I bought a set of Bora 1.5" spacers and the 20" LTZ wheels I have won't work. The studs hit the wheel. Kicking myself for not knowing I needed at least a 1.75" for these wheels. Crazy that the OP was able to use 1" spacers and have them clear the wheel. Looks good!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Are yours this wheel?

 

179A54DD-E265-4021-8166-E0F299CEDBB7.png

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Bump for an update on how the 1" spacers work out! I have the stock 18", would love to go only an inch out on them. I wonder if the stock 18" rims would hit the studs? 

Posted

I have 1" BORA Spacers on mine and they fit the GMC Wheels with the pockets inside the wheels.  I have a problem with vibration in the front.  I put them on and the vibration started, so I took them off and it went away.  I had to put them back on because the wheels are hitting the UCAs and the vibration returned.  I even made sure to mark the spacers as they came off so they went back on in different positions and did all my tightening/torquing by hand so that I know they were centered.

 

I trimmed off the nipple part of the studs to make sure there wasn't any chance of the stud touching the wheel once things are torqued.  I figured that won't affect anything even with a different set of wheels which is probably my next step... 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
    • I'm well aware of the typical bathtub failure curve, but plotted, this truck has been more like an elevated straight line.  It started days off the lot with misfires that GM couldn't solve for almost 2 years, and steadily continued over the last 5 years with repeat replacements of wiring harnesses, camera modules, cameras, parking sensors, head unit, rear windows, rear leaf springs and bushings, lower control arms, a radiator, and now an ac compressor and a column shift assembly.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...