Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks again for the replies and suggestions for a cap to cover the fuel filler. I went with the Fernco PQC-102 2" Qwik Cap. I removed the hose clamp. I liked the two ribs on the inside diameter. When I installed the cap, it felt like it snapped on to be secure. Removal was easy even in the cold weather we are having. My local hardware store had them in stock. Great suggestion.

Fuel Cap.jpg

Posted

GM makes a half ass lockable OEM cover.
They’re about $15 on eBay or at your local stealership


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have 2018 Silverado 1500 Z71 with capless fill fuel tank. I am currently looking to trade in due to this. Chevy told me that they had to re-route the vent system (because it is located in the wheel well of all places) and that it is not covered by the warranty. I pay for engineers ignorance? $760 later I am back on the road. Then I see that all these new trucks have capless fill? I may have to special order a new truck??? 

Posted

Interesting.

Might you explain why they re-routed the vent. Did it get clogged somehow? Excuse for not covered by warranty?

Thank you.

Posted

Almost 2 years into my capless 2017... I bought a GM OEM cover, but only used it for a week or so because it was a pain to remove..That being said.. the filler seems to stay pretty clean behind the the filler door. At 32k miles, I haven't had any fuel related problems..so I don't use any type of cover.

Posted

I went to plumbing section of Home Depot and bought a ABS cap that fits perfectly. Did this for both the Silvy and the Tahoe. Sanded and painted yellow. Added a rubber edge from some tread slip belt I had and a Bowtie from an old keychain and it works and looks great.

IMG_20170419_143628.jpg

IMG_20170419_143728.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 4/6/2019 at 1:39 PM, David Prater said:

I have 2018 Silverado 1500 Z71 with capless fill fuel tank. I am currently looking to trade in due to this. Chevy told me that they had to re-route the vent system (because it is located in the wheel well of all places) and that it is not covered by the warranty. I pay for engineers ignorance? $760 later I am back on the road. Then I see that all these new trucks have capless fill? I may have to special order a new truck??? 

Do you mind enlightening the rest of us why your capless fuel filler is so horrible that you are going to trade you whole truck? I personally find that hard to believe...Secondly, why would the dealer have to re-route your vent? To where? Why did it cost over $700? Finally, good luck finding another vehicle that doesn't have a capless system, seems they all do best I can remember from driving rentals...

  • Like 1
Posted

I am off highway streets about 75% of the time for the type of work I do. I am in the oil and gas industry and in the dust and mud constantly. With the amount of wind and dust that we deal with on a daily basis, the dirt does pile up around the fuel filler.  Just imagine the vent that was put in the wheel well. I can't miss work by constantly having my truck in the shop. They re-routed the vent to under the hood. On why it cost so much? I don't know..  I have looked at all trucks now and only the Toyota Tundra and the Nissan Titan have gas caps still. The Ram, at least, has a sealed compartment for some of their models. 

Posted
1 hour ago, David Prater said:

I am off highway streets about 75% of the time for the type of work I do. I am in the oil and gas industry and in the dust and mud constantly. With the amount of wind and dust that we deal with on a daily basis, the dirt does pile up around the fuel filler.  Just imagine the vent that was put in the wheel well. I can't miss work by constantly having my truck in the shop. They re-routed the vent to under the hood. On why it cost so much? I don't know..  I have looked at all trucks now and only the Toyota Tundra and the Nissan Titan have gas caps still. The Ram, at least, has a sealed compartment for some of their models. 

Well, you better hurry and get your horrendously outdated Nissan or Toyota before they update them in like...2050 or if ever. But I guess you wont have to worry about that crippling pesky capless fuel filler

  • Like 1
Posted
Well, you better hurry and get your horrendously outdated Nissan or Toyota before they update them in like...2050 or if ever. But I guess you wont have to worry about that crippling pesky capless fuel filler
A gas cap makes it outdated? I wonder what do you think of people still wanting keys versus push start?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

Could have just sealed the door yourself or built a plug to put over the hole...

 

Suprised nobody at the stealership suggested replacing the whole assembly with a capped system from a 014-016 instead of rerouting gas fumes to the engine compartment?

 

kinda pointless to get rid of it now ain’t it? Since you spent the money to fix it?

Posted (edited)
41 minutes ago, Rock1500 said:

A gas cap makes it outdated? I wonder what do you think of people still wanting keys versus push start?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

Not in the least, my point is the entire truck is outdated...and for the record my '17 still has a key and I much prefer it.

Edited by NCPGMC
  • Like 1
Posted

Chevy has a tech bulletin on this, replace with locking gas cap 84308352

but I like the 2-1/4" rubber cap Ideal you find by searching chevy capless system dust cover

But just think how much time you will loose each week by not having a capless system. LOL

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...