Jump to content

couple quick audio (loc) questions


Recommended Posts

Posted
Looks like for the harness it should be a GMLAN10 for 2016 trucks and up
 

Looking at the connector colors on GMLAN10, that may be the harness for the IOB radios. I have IO6 and 8” display. GMLAN09 looks to be what I need. I made my own T-Harness prior but obviously, the DSP is needed.

1c90ffe4c55858d9138efe13742eb371.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Looking at the connector colors on GMLAN10, that may be the harness for the IOB radios. I have IO6 and 8” display. GMLAN09 looks to be what I need. I made my own T-Harness prior but obviously, the DSP is needed.

1c90ffe4c55858d9138efe13742eb371.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah connectors for yours look gmlan09. Not sure the diff with the 10 but def different.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Yeah connectors for yours look gmlan09. Not sure the diff with the 10 but def different.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. The GMLAN10 has brown connectors for the IOB radio.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Have any of you checked to see if your systems have an OEM amp that is located by the emergency brake on the driver side ? 

 

If you do have this amp than the LC2i is doing nothing for you. Yes you get the low lever signal to add an amp but the way the gm M.O.S.T system works as you go higher on you volume it changes the equalizer to protect the cheap speakers so the best way to do it is to buy the rockford/maestro DSR1 and install it at the head unit then u will get all 6 channels out by RCA to your amp or amps and you get to set your equalizer and speaker set up all over bluetooth no other crap to mess with..there is a facebook page called LLJ Customs they make the T harness that just plugs and play 

 

Posted
Have any of you checked to see if your systems have an OEM amp that is located by the emergency brake on the driver side ? 
 
If you do have this amp than the LC2i is doing nothing for you. Yes you get the low lever signal to add an amp but the way the gm M.O.S.T system works as you go higher on you volume it changes the equalizer to protect the cheap speakers so the best way to do it is to buy the rockford/maestro DSR1 and install it at the head unit then u will get all 6 channels out by RCA to your amp or amps and you get to set your equalizer and speaker set up all over bluetooth no other crap to mess with..there is a facebook page called LLJ Customs they make the T harness that just plugs and play 
 

The Axxess AX-DSP seems to do the same thing as the Maestra.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Ok - I temp installed the AX-DSP and PnP T-Harness (GMLAN09). Much easier than I was overthinking it to be. You essentially unplug the green and gray plugs from the radio module and plug the T-Harness in between. The 4 pairs of speaker wires are where to land the outputs from the amp, and that feeds I tot he Factory wiring for the door speakers. The RCA plugs from the T-Harness are the low level signal outputs from the DSP. These go in the inputs of the amps. There is a dedicated subwoofer output.

 

A few things - in the configuration of the DSP (via the app), If I select “General” for the vehicle type like@Csjumper2003 said, I get blaring loud chimes. If I select 2014 - 2018 Silverado - 1500, I get the ability to adjust chimes and get them to normalize, but like@Csjumper2003 said, when a chime is invoked, the left front speaker lowers the audio so that you can hear chime. I had all of 45 Minutes to give this a go. I will continue this over the weekend.

 

472b3c414a06fceb24f65c59592237c7.jpg

 

Posted
Ok - I temp installed the AX-DSP and PnP T-Harness (GMLAN09). Much easier than I was overthinking it to be. You essentially unplug the green and gray plugs from the radio module and plug the T-Harness in between. The 4 pairs of speaker wires are where to land the outputs from the amp, and that feeds I tot he Factory wiring for the door speakers. The RCA plugs from the T-Harness are the low level signal outputs from the DSP. These go in the inputs of the amps. There is a dedicated subwoofer output.
 
A few things - in the configuration of the DSP (via the app), If I select “General” for the vehicle type like[mention=152966]Csjumper2003[/mention] said, I get blaring loud chimes. If I select 2014 - 2018 Silverado - 1500, I get the ability to adjust chimes and get them to normalize, but like[mention=152966]Csjumper2003[/mention] said, when a chime is invoked, the left front speaker lowers the audio so that you can hear chime. I had all of 45 Minutes to give this a go. I will continue this over the weekend.
 
472b3c414a06fceb24f65c59592237c7.jpg
 


What I did first was owner the chime with 14-18 setting. Once I set that and lowered the chime, when I went back to general the chime was back to normal level but not as quiet as before when I could adjust the chime. That might be your fix at least worked for me. Chime level for me seems to stay at the factory level when I did this and even amped now the chime didn’t go crazy like first. Also if 4 channel amp is super turned up it won’t give you a ton of room to adjust the chime.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Good to see a couple of you installed this already and have feedback. With my weekends being devoted to camping at my seasonal site I don’t get a lot of time to install. So planning on picking away at it when I can while camping

Question regarding the dsp and harness, if I hooked it all up this weekend and ran my rcas from behind dash to the rear but didn’t hook it up to anything as I don’t have amps installed yet will I still get sound from the oem speakers?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I wouldn’t plug in the rcas. If you plug them into dsp and they are live. So will signal and would be bouncing around . And risk messing up rcas.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
10 hours ago, Csjumper2003 said:

I wouldn’t plug in the rcas. If you plug them into dsp and they are live. So will signal and would be bouncing around . And risk messing up rcas.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

it would be no different than having the rca ports on the DSP with no connectors in them.  just tape up the ends that aren't being used to insulate them and he should be fine.  

Posted

I have a 2017 I06 w/ 8in screen no amp and metra keeps telling me I need this one AX-DSP-MOST1.  I've been going back a forth with them for I dont think I have an amp in my truck for it is a UQ3,  The UQA and UQG and amps in them.

 

I'm running a audiocontrol dq-61 but am thinking of switching to a JL FIX and TWKd8 if I cant get the axxess dsp to work, but it sounds like there is issues with teh chiming which is really the only reason i want the DSP.

 

Thanks Guys!.

Posted

They told me that most people do not know much about these harnesses. Make sure when you call metra that you speak with tech support. They seem to know the most.

Non amped should not need the most1. The most1 was really the only thing avail for a year. Hope that helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Have you had any luck fixing the chime issue?

 

the Most1 would plug right into either the UQA or UQG amps.

 

 

Posted

The chime issue ? Oh meaning the cut back? I just pulled the signal from the right side over and powered that top speaker. Chime isn’t bad now but would be nice if metra fixes this issue but at general and good preouts I can make due. I’m sure there will be a firm ware update to fix at some point. Remember some of there people still don’t know much about these harnesses that’s how new they are


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...