Jump to content

couple quick audio (loc) questions


Recommended Posts

Posted
37 minutes ago, Csjumper2003 said:

It definitely does fit behind radio. I’m working to figure the extra front speaker wires, what looks like an amp turn on from the oem t harness. Anybody know if these are too be disguarded? If keeping factory radio without factory amp?

If not I’ll prob call metra tomorrow to get it sorted out.

Here are the wires. All others are regular white,gray, purple, and green for speakers.

This damn thing is too new for much info.

d8f127c90ff0b6c801ad97b74f534f12.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If those are standard after market wire colors the orange would be for dimmer, blue and white would be for power antenna etc.  

 

is the big blue cable a Multiwire for speakers? 

  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Yeah. These are for t harness. Just verified with keeping oem radio these wires on the t harness shouldn’t be used.

 

Yeah stinger 9 wire. As you can see it fits nicely actually2588514279a0fe44a1a145a478fa76cc.jpg

 

 

Just realized I don’t have fuses for distribution block. Looks like I’m at a stopping point right now but they definitely fit nicely.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted

awesome, this is exactly what I wanted to hear.  

 

So just to verify,  do you run the speaker wires from the amp back up to the T harness on those cut wires? 

Posted

Yeah just like any other aftermarket setup. The t harness gives you speaker wires to do the same as if you used a radio harness to get those for after market deck. And yeah always recommmed spending a few bucks on the stinger speedwire. When this came out I use it for all my installs now. 2f1700fd2dcc5111b89c4bc8de52443b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

The speed wire is awesome.  

 

I'm glad I found this thread,  I was getting ready to do an install with the LC2i and a custom T harness using the Metra connectors and some speed wire, I just had no Idea where to mount the LC2i in my regular cab.  This is going to be so much easier, and the DSP has so many other features like time alignment and stuff that I would normally have with an aftermarket radio.  

 

Too bad  I already bought the other stuff though.  haha

Posted

Ok just got off phone with metra. So harness is new and website doesn’t even show it for this truck yet. Verified exactly what I needed with tech support.

On the t harness there are 2 sets of cut wires. One side is just speaker wires. The other is for if you were adding this unit to an aftermarket deck. These are the items you would need to retain chime and other features. These are disguarded by keeping factory deck. Cap all of these

af59ca7340c20e813a5c7919bb9a4e27.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
6 hours ago, Csjumper2003 said:

Ok just got off phone with metra. So harness is new and website doesn’t even show it for this truck yet. Verified exactly what I needed with tech support.

On the t harness there are 2 sets of cut wires. One side is just speaker wires. The other is for if you were adding this unit to an aftermarket deck. These are the items you would need to retain chime and other features. These are disguarded by keeping factory deck. Cap all of these

af59ca7340c20e813a5c7919bb9a4e27.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so how to you go from the amp to the speakers? Do you tap into the other cut speaker wires? 

Posted

Ok... just so I understand this.. LOL.

- AX-DSP
- GMLAN09 Harness

Factory Head Unit
Non-BOSE
Aftermarket Amp/Sub
Aftermarket Amp/Door Speakers




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
Ok... just so I understand this.. LOL.

- AX-DSP
- GMLAN09 Harness

Factory Head Unit
Non-BOSE
Aftermarket Amp/Sub
Aftermarket Amp/Door Speakers




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And 14-15 Sierra for sure. I think it’s actually 14-18 I just only know 100% for the 14-15




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

And 14-15 Sierra for sure. I think it’s actually 14-18 I just only know 100% for the 14-15




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve looked at the radio schematics several times over. Lol. Especially the radio module. I don’t see any differences that would make me think it wouldn’t fit. I guess I need to give this a shot and get my audio install done finally. Lol. Thanks for all the info. Please keep us posted how this goes for ya.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Ok all installed.

When you hook it up and sub doesn’t work you will need to switch to use front and rear. You will know what I mean when you look at the the app. If you use oem radio you will need this to get sub signal. Other option is only for aftermarket radios.

I took a small piece of electrical tape and made sure all rcas stay tight together.

Make sure before you connect the remote wire connect the ax dsp and turn the chime down. You will regret if you don’t. In order to save settings make sure to lock it down in config area.

My Hertz HCX 6x9s and Hertz HCX 6.5s have come alive.

I will say the sub channel signal was double what it used to be for sensitivity as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
On 5/14/2018 at 8:34 PM, pgamboa said:

Ok... just so I understand this.. LOL.

- AX-DSP
- GMLAN09 Harness

Factory Head Unit
Non-BOSE
Aftermarket Amp/Sub
Aftermarket Amp/Door Speakers




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like for the harness it should be a GMLAN10 for 2016 trucks and up

 

Posted

Ok so got installed and been testing it out. So far I found 1 item that was acting up.

Seems that if you vehicle specific your truck, it taps into the canbus data and acts a little funny.

What I mean by this when you play music and hit your turnsignal or another chime It cuts off sound and mutes where a chime would be.

The fix for this is to make the specific vehicle generic and not your actual vehicle. This will allow chime to be normal level not lower like it was but will allow the Audio to play no matter what like oem did.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Received my DSP and GMLAN09 Harness today will give this a go tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...