Overland build

[hendersonc047]

2 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Fox is a far more renown name in suspension. From bicycles to airplanes. If both sets are comparable as is shock body size, and reservoir set up, I would probably go Fox even if they were priced the same. I can still get Fox parts to rebuilt shocks on a 1996 Polaris snowmobile, will you be able to get Icon parts in 23 years? Not like you will have the truck or shocks by then but just a thought to consider. 

I did not think about that actually... especially where I live, there are only like 2 truck places that can install them(hopefully correctly). They do work for the good ol boys that lift the truck up 8ft in the air, but I'm sure they use fox for some other builds so they possibly have some replacement parts. I'm just thinking out loud at this point. I'll look into it and hopefully I can do it soon because I've been wanting it for awhile!

[BIGRED811]

All brands are going to be within the same price point. Icon sells their kits in stages, more or less as recommendations of parts they would feel would be required as you go up in stages. This also makes it a lot easier deciding or figuring out what parts are needed to achieve what you're after.

 

Fox & King shocks are progressively valved, being their background is offroad racing. Progressive valving is desgined for bigger, higher speed hits.

 

Icon shocks are digressively valved, being a much more suitable application for any daily driven vehicle. Offroad, the performance will be the same as Fox or King. 

 

As far as brand reputably Icon as been around for the last 18+ years, all of their parts and manufactured and produced in Southern California. 

 

One of the biggest things I like about Icon, is with every vehicle they produce parts for they have tested the limits of the factory suspension in various situations and from that information their engineers find the means of improving.  

Edited August 2, 2019 by BIGRED811

[hendersonc047]

On 8/2/2019 at 4:19 PM, BIGRED811 said:

All brands are going to be within the same price point. Icon sells their kits in stages, more or less as recommendations of parts they would feel would be required as you go up in stages. This also makes it a lot easier deciding or figuring out what parts are needed to achieve what you're after.

 

Fox & King shocks are progressively valved, being their background is offroad racing. Progressive valving is desgined for bigger, higher speed hits.

 

Icon shocks are digressively valved, being a much more suitable application for any daily driven vehicle. Offroad, the performance will be the same as Fox or King. 

 

As far as brand reputably Icon as been around for the last 18+ years, all of their parts and manufactured and produced in Southern California. 

 

One of the biggest things I like about Icon, is with every vehicle they produce parts for they have tested the limits of the factory suspension in various situations and from that information their engineers find the means of improving.  

So, if I daily my truck icons would be better? I really enjoy the content icon puts out and they definitely know what they are doing. Is the stage one worth it over the Fox? I’m he also recommend a rebuild every 60k or something for icon I think but where I live I’m not sure they are up to par to perform that.

[hendersonc047]

Hey guys,

I’m having some trouble with the truck. Whenever I hit about 40mph my back end bounces. I got my tires balanced, still does it. Took it to the shop and got new brake pads, still does it. I really have no clue. It stops after 40. I would go to another thread but I feel as though it’s easier this way...

[typ0]

So your accelerating down the road and everything is smooth until you hit 40, and the back end starts bouncing, and then it smooths out again after 40? Yeah, if its not balance that's a strange one. Bent rim maybe?

 

What have you done to your truck between when it ran good and when it started doing this?

[hendersonc047]

On 9/11/2019 at 2:07 PM, typ0 said:

So your accelerating down the road and everything is smooth until you hit 40, and the back end starts bouncing, and then it smooths out again after 40? Yeah, if its not balance that's a strange one. Bent rim maybe?

 

What have you done to your truck between when it ran good and when it started doing this?

So I had to take the truck back into the shop after the brake pads. The owner before me was probably a follow truck for a cement truck and therefore there is a whole dick load of cement under the truck..... I didn’t look under the vehicle when I got it. That’s on me. So I took it back because there was a clicking. After they looked at it, when they installed the rotors a piece of the cement was between the rotor and the hub so it wasn’t flush thus causing it to click/clunk. Overall after doing that it rides a lot smoother but sometimes the rear end still kind of bounces but not at all what it used to be. The shop told me I need new upper and lower ball joint as the cement is starting to take a toll. So looks like I’m saving some cash for awhile and maybe it’s just the rear shocks because everything else has been accounted for.... I’ll keep it updated.

thanks guys

[ThundahBeagle]

Couple things...

 

Henderson - I'm no expert but you should probably also get your rear universal joint checked. Although I was never into concrete following, I had the same symptoms on an old k1500 big Blazer I had, only I felt it right under the floor shifter at about 40mph. Turned out to be the front u-joint in my case. Not nullifying the garage saying its ball joints, just it sounds like a u joint to me.

 

Madcow...personally, if it were me and I were you I would pass on the cold air intake. Hard pass if you have a z71 package. Cold intakes provide more airflow because they filter less particulate. Overlanding means that -even more so than highway driving - you will be driving down dirty, dusty roads, logger trails and such. With a cold intake, more tiny bits are making thier way into your engine and you aren't even getting one measly horsepower to show for the possible long term damage to your engine. And if you have a z71 package you already have a high capacity air filter. Bring a few extras with you on long dusty trips.

Edited February 18, 2020 by ThundahBeagle
Shorten

[ThundahBeagle]

Ducky - that's an interesting tent setup you have there. I'm sure it's hard to decide rooftop or trailer, it's hard enough for me to decide which toolbox.

 

While I'm not an over lander per se, I've done a fair bit of truck camping and road trips. For me, the best solution was a big Blazer. The k5 types. Mine were a 93 and a 94, two door. For others I guess they'd want a suburban. Flop the back seats down and I have room to sleep. Kayak on top, bike on the back. Me and the dog or the lady inside. It might mean some shifting around of cargo, but it works.

 

My other alternative, since my Blazers are both gone now and I have a 2014 Sierra, is a Leer truck cap. Camper shell, topper, whatever you want to call it. With a double cab and a Leer cap, there's plenty of room for the two of us and a dog, and although we bring a regular tent, we can always jump under the cap if it starts pouring.

[hendersonc047]

On 2/17/2020 at 10:01 PM, ThundahBeagle said:

Couple things...

 

Henderson - I'm no expert but you should probably also get your rear universal joint checked. Although I was never into concrete following, I had the same symptoms on an old k1500 big Blazer I had, only I felt it right under the floor shifter at about 40mph. Turned out to be the front u-joint in my case. Not nullifying the garage saying its ball joints, just it sounds like a u joint to me.

 

Madcow...personally, if it were me and I were you I would pass on the cold air intake. Hard pass if you have a z71 package. Cold intakes provide more airflow because they filter less particulate. Overlanding means that -even more so than highway driving - you will be driving down dirty, dusty roads, logger trails and such. With a cold intake, more tiny bits are making thier way into your engine and you aren't even getting one measly horsepower to show for the possible long term damage to your engine. And if you have a z71 package you already have a high capacity air filter. Bring a few extras with you on long dusty trips.

After brakes and everything it seems to be ok, I think it was just an out of whack balance. I’m not really sure, sometimes going uphill( in Florida) it rattles a little bit nothing like it was.

ill go under the truck and try to shake the hell out of the drive shaft and see if shakes or anything.

[hendersonc047]

Also, update. I got a suspension upgrade from Camburg. I’ll have some pictures later because if there isn’t a picture, it didn’t happen. I also got an MIT kit from air aid and replaced the cabin and intake filters. Washable cabin filter and dry filter from AEM I think? Truck is way louder when when your foot hits the floor too! I have seen maybe a mike per gallon difference

Edited May 13, 2020 by hendersonc047

[hendersonc047]

On 5/12/2020 at 9:51 PM, hendersonc047 said:

Also, update. I got a suspension upgrade from Camburg. I’ll have some pictures later because if there isn’t a picture, it didn’t happen. I also got an MIT kit from air aid and replaced the cabin and intake filters. Washable cabin filter and dry filter from AEM I think? Truck is way louder when when your foot hits the floor too! I have seen maybe a mike per gallon difference

 

Edited May 15, 2020 by hendersonc047

[Ruggedly]

On 5/15/2020 at 11:45 AM, hendersonc047 said:

 

What Camburg kit did you go with? I'm coming from an 80 Series Land Cruiser so this whole IFS thing is new to me, but I really like your setup. 

[hendersonc047]

2 hours ago, Ruggedly said:

What Camburg kit did you go with? I'm coming from an 80 Series Land Cruiser so this whole IFS thing is new to me, but I really like your setup. 

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-chevy-1500-07-fox-performance-2-5-kit/

I went with this kit, I got a real good deal on it. I asked around on here and other platforms for a bunch of opinions and everyone pointed this kit and the icons out but I got this for the price at the time I got it.

[Ruggedly]

2 hours ago, hendersonc047 said:

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-chevy-1500-07-fox-performance-2-5-kit/

I went with this kit, I got a real good deal on it. I asked around on here and other platforms for a bunch of opinions and everyone pointed this kit and the icons out but I got this for the price at the time I got it.

Pardon my ignorance, but two questions for you: 

1. is this what they consider a leveling kit?  I don’t see anything in the kit that addresses height in the back. 
2. how is it adjustable from 0-3” of loft? How do you have adjustable height that doesn’t sacrifice steering and suspension geometry?

[hendersonc047]

1 hour ago, Ruggedly said:

Pardon my ignorance, but two questions for you: 

1. is this what they consider a leveling kit?  I don’t see anything in the kit that addresses height in the back. 
2. how is it adjustable from 0-3” of loft? How do you have adjustable height that doesn’t sacrifice steering and suspension geometry?

It’s all good, I’m not too informed about it all either.

for me personally, it gave it some lift maybe about an inch or inch and half from stock. My mechanic didn’t adjust the coilovers or anything when installing.

you do need to get an alignment after install, just for this kind of assembly it’s kind of set and forget I believe. There’s so instant up or down it’s put it on and make sure it’s all dandy and adjust from there then don’t really do much after that. The higher you go up in lift the rougher the ride and for me, the truck was perfectly level when they installed it and let it settle for a day. I’m honestly not sure how much it’s lifted, but it’s pretty much the same height as it was with just the random leveling kit I had on it when I got the vehicle.