Upper Bellhousing Fuel Line Stud/Nut Removal Question

Quadrasteer · June 23, 2018

Another good idea...I was thinking of using one of those black airbags that they sell to do the same.

Supreme Pizza · June 23, 2018

I wounder how much flex you could get by carefully jacking up the rear output shaft area of the T-case. It may just raise everything up, but it might also pivot the drive system on the cross member, forcing the motor downward. Probably would not work, but it might be worth investigating.

Quadrasteer · June 26, 2018

On 6/23/2018 at 3:00 PM, starman8tdc said:

I wounder how much flex you could get by carefully jacking up the rear output shaft area of the T-case. It may just raise everything up, but it might also pivot the drive system on the cross member, forcing the motor downward. Probably would not work, but it might be worth investigating.

Interesting, anything to make the space wider or the nut more visable.

Doctor0man · July 1, 2018

Just did this yesterday (after an embarrassingly long time). I was removing my failed transmission for replacement in effort to leave the intake in place, I found that one could support the lower part of the engine oil pan with a jack and wood block. Support transmission with jack and wood block. Remove transmission cross member. Lower both evenly and slowly until stud/nut is exposed from side/underside.

I think the first time I pulled the engine, I pulled the intake, i sat on the engine, reached behind, and used a ratcheting wrench. Good luck.

Supreme Pizza · July 1, 2018

I still say that leaving the old lines in place, and running the new lines parallel is the way to go. Zip ties and sections of rubber tubing to prevent movement of the line. It reduces the labor time by at least 50% on a normal vehicle. On this rig, it seems like it would reduce the labor time 10 fold.

formerlylifted · July 1, 2018

Drop the drive shaft, support the transmission with a floor jack and wood block. Remove the transmission support/crossmember. Lower the jack until the engine oil pan just barely touches the front crossmember. Get about 3-4 feet of extensions between your socket and ratchet. You’ll have a clear view of it from behind the transfer case. It’s a 14mm nut.

Vortec-Z71 · July 6, 2018

On ‎6‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 4:46 PM, Quadrasteer said:

Bought the split Dorman kit to replace the fuel lines on my '02 SD. That stud/nut on the bellhousing is a bitch to get at, I could use some advice on getting it off. I can see it and I sprayed it with penetrant but not sure how to get to it to remove it. If anyone has done this before please let me know....;

I replaced the fuel lines with the same Dorman kit on my 03 a few weeks ago. I started by removing the front drive shaft. It should only take a few mins. That allows for a lot more room. I then used a 24" extension, a u-joint socket adapter, a small extension, another u-joint socket adapter, and finally a deep well socket (my regular one wouldn't grab the nut with the length of the stud). This gave me the flexibility I needed for the tight space. You have to be at just the right angle to see the nut. I used one hand to turn the ratchet while the other guided the socket over the nut. With my hand in there, I could no longer see what I was doing but instead did it by feel. It is not easy but doable. Also make sure to use penetrating oil a few days before. The nut shouldn't be torqued that tight but with rust, dirt, etc. it helps.

On that same Dorman kit, I also had an issue with the metal connector where the rear and mid feed lines connect. The flares on the lines were too long and didn't allow both nuts to be fully seated at the same time so I had to grind a few mm off in total. Be sure to check for fuel leaks after starting as mine was spraying pretty good when I found this issue on first startup. Chris

Quadrasteer · July 6, 2018

1 hour ago, Vortec-Z71 said:

I replaced the fuel lines with the same Dorman kit on my 03 a few weeks ago. I started by removing the front drive shaft. It should only take a few mins. That allows for a lot more room. I then used a 24" extension, a u-joint socket adapter, a small extension, another u-joint socket adapter, and finally a deep well socket (my regular one wouldn't grab the nut with the length of the stud). This gave me the flexibility I needed for the tight space. You have to be at just the right angle to see the nut. I used one hand to turn the ratchet while the other guided the socket over the nut. With my hand in there, I could no longer see what I was doing but instead did it by feel. It is not easy but doable. Also make sure to use penetrating oil a few days before. The nut shouldn't be torqued that tight but with rust, dirt, etc. it helps.

On that same Dorman kit, I also had an issue with the metal connector where the rear and mid feed lines connect. The flares on the lines were too long and didn't allow both nuts to be fully seated at the same time so I had to grind a few mm off in total. Be sure to check for fuel leaks after starting as mine was spraying pretty good when I found this issue on first startup. Chris

Good to know thanks, was it 13mm or 14mm like the post above? I was thinking of using a u-joint 13mm socket, my u-joint adaptors seem to lock up when bent to far. If you have time post the size of the extensions and if they were wobble or regular so that I can use the exact setup and thanks for the heads up about the flare. I already had to cut the rear OEM plastic connectors off the tubes coming from the tank, the metal lines in them were corroded badly, I'll have to use the plastic Shark Byte like fittings with some poly tube.

Vortec-Z71 · July 6, 2018

1 hour ago, Quadrasteer said:

Good to know thanks, was it 13mm or 14mm like the post above? I was thinking of using a u-joint 13mm socket, my u-joint adaptors seem to lock up when bent to far. If you have time post the size of the extensions and if they were wobble or regular so that I can use the exact setup and thanks for the heads up about the flare. I already had to cut the rear OEM plastic connectors off the tubes coming from the tank, the metal lines in them were corroded badly, I'll have to use the plastic Shark Byte like fittings with some poly tube.

I forget the exact extension size other than the 24" one I had to go out and buy (everything was regular not wobble). I can't recall the exact nut size either but I want to say 13mm. What I did was go to my local dealer and buy a brand new nut by looking it up in the parts catalog and found the size that way so I didn't have to play around with it. Plus I wouldn't be dealing with a rusty nut when installing the new lines and you can put anti-seize on it easily. The Dorman install guide below is a decent summary but lacks a lot of detail. It makes it look much easier than it really is.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-90300-919-840.aspx?year=2003&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado%201500&parttype=Fuel%20Line&origin=YMM

Edited July 6, 2018 by Vortec-Z71

Quadrasteer · July 7, 2018

6 hours ago, Vortec-Z71 said:

I forget the exact extension size other than the 24" one I had to go out and buy (everything was regular not wobble). I can't recall the exact nut size either but I want to say 13mm. What I did was go to my local dealer and buy a brand new nut by looking it up in the parts catalog and found the size that way so I didn't have to play around with it. Plus I wouldn't be dealing with a rusty nut when installing the new lines and you can put anti-seize on it easily. The Dorman install guide below is a decent summary but lacks a lot of detail. It makes it look much easier than it really is.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-90300-919-840.aspx?year=2003&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado%201500&parttype=Fuel%20Line&origin=YMM

I called them about leaving that fastener out of their video....if they mentioned how hard it was they probably would have sold less of the kits. You would think that with all the Chevy's and GMC sold with those crap lines that someone would have done a really good tutorial on how to replace them. I'm not really concerned with putting the nut back, if I have to tie strap them, so be it. I wish I (we) could just twist or cut the bracket off and not bother with the nut.

Supreme Pizza · July 7, 2018

Why not just scrap the OEM routing design, and just make a new plan? Leave the old lines in place.

Supreme Pizza · July 9, 2018

I just removed that same bracket today. Not easy to get to, but it can be done in about 10 minutes with lots of extensions. No need to pull the drive-line.