Jump to content

Paint chips


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've seen ppl gripe about the paint on these trucks and now I'm one of them.  My truck has 13k miles and hasn't seen a dirt road yet.  Some hwy miles but mainly commuting to and from work.  Been finding little chips like this in random places.  What's the best way to take care of these?

20180622_185657.jpg

Screenshot_20180622-185536_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20180622-185522_Gallery.jpg

Posted

Touch up paint, but if that color is “ Pepper dust” or whatever gm calls it on the trucks it’s hard to get it to look right because of the blue undertone

I’d personally take it to the dealer and ask if it’s under warranty because the paint should be able to take some hits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I got a few of those on my passenger bedside and passenger rear door.  The passenger rear door are actually pretty noticeable.  Told the dealership about them while in the 3yr 36k and they just touched them up for me.  Looked pretty good til I was clay barring and wasn't paying attention and pulled the touch up paint right out lol.

 

Gotta get some touch up paint and fill them back in.

 

I personally don't think the dealer would do much else.  I'd be leery of fighting for a respray... it's never the same in my experience...

Posted

Look at paint doctor, I think that is the name, you spread the paint over the chip and then wipe off the access with a special product that is not suppose to affect the chip fix. They show a video of how it works. I have not personally tried it but looks pretty easy.

Posted

Paint color is dark slate metallic (gmc) or graphite metallic (chevy) which would probably be just as difficult as pepper dust to match.  I'll stop by the local dealer and see what they have to say.  Probably need to grab some touch up paint anyway.

Posted

I've been dealing with this for years now. At first it drove me insane but now it's my normal yearly wash / wax / touch up / polish detailing of the truck.

The best results I've found have been using this guys guide. I forgot where I bought the paint but DONT buy the paint markers as they are a waste of money and useless. Buy a little bottle of the paint color you need and the clear coat. Do as this guy suggests and mix the clear coat with the paint. I try to do, 2 to 1 mix of color and clear coat together and then dab it in the chip.



My suggestion if you have an all terrain model is to 3m the front of your truck. I did that and it was the best thing I ever did. I've even taken to 3m other sections of my truck as well.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

Touching up paint is pretty much a part of my maintenance plan with all my vehicles now. And the more highway you do? The more you'll need. Nothing kills paint like a daily highway commute. Windshields too. Take a close look at a daily driven highway commuting windshield...it'll have so many pits in it that it's ridiculous.

 

I always hear highway driving is the easiest on your vehicle, and it is, but it's a bitch on your paint. I log 30,000 miles of highway commuting every year, this is some of the things that has happened to my vehicle because of it. Hit a turkey doing 75, the thing took my passenger mirror clean off (lucky I'm not dead). Had a piece of ice so big it looked like a glacier come off a guy's roof in front of me once...landed where the windshield meets the roof. Scared the crap out of me. Dented the roof. Been stuck behind more construction vehicles than I can count, all of them unloading their little bouncy rocks right onto my bumper, hood and windshield. Been caught behind a million sanding/salting trucks, lot of fun when that stuff starts bouncing around. Last year I was stuck behind one of those brime spraying trucks, that was a first. Looked like something that you'd expect to see in a farm field. Had a car drive sideways right in front of me once...the thing bounced right off the barrier, went across my lane as I drove by not knowing what was going on. Parts exploding everywhere. No one in the car - guy must have had a heart attack and ended up on the floor - can't believe I lived through that one. I actually have had people swerve into my lane so close that our mirrors touched, and I said, you're not putting me into the ground today MFer. Sometimes you have to treat your commute like it's a battle field. 

 

Oh, saw a guy guy walking along the highway with no clothes on once...it was probably 12 degrees out. Cops were slowly following him in the breakdown lane as he smiled ear to ear (probably happy he wasn't getting paint chips on his vehicle).

Posted

Wow ? Those are some stories. My commute is 2.5 miles from work. The 18 usually stays in driveway for longer road trips. I already have some windshield pits and small deep gouge in driver door a pillar. Been slowly building it up with ac Delco touch up pin. Purchased truck mid March!

 

The sheet metal is thin and so is the paint. All brands are doing this. If I had a painted front bumper I’d get that clear bra, 3m, expel etc. 

 

been looking for for a steel carport just in case it hails because I’m sure the super thin roof steel and aluminum hood won’t stand up to much. 

 

Still love the truck but compared to gmt 800 and prior years they really lightened up the body panels. 

Posted

I took a magnet covered with microfiber cloth. K2xx 14 - 18 Everything is thin steel except for aluminum hood and the trim piece between grill and front bumper is plastic. 

 

New gen 19+ all swing panels (Doors, hood, tailgate) are aluminum. 

Posted
On 6/22/2018 at 7:44 PM, Tahoe02 said:

Look at paint doctor, I think that is the name, you spread the paint over the chip and then wipe off the access with a special product that is not suppose to affect the chip fix. They show a video of how it works. I have not personally tried it but looks pretty easy.

http://www.drcolorchip.com

 

I didn't expect much from this when I first tried it a few years ago but it really does a great job!

Not perfect like the professional video above but for quick touch-ups it does a better job than the factory bottles and pens.

 

There is also a similar brand called Chipex:

http://www.chipex.com

Posted

The scariest thing that happened to me on the highway. I was passing a big truck, in front of me was a Jeep we’re doing about 70. A blinding rain came up as I was reaching up to hit auto 4WD I saw headlights. Before I could react they disappeared I glanced in the rear view and saw the Jeep backing into the woods taking out little pine trees. The Jeep did a 180 in front of me, the momentum carried it missing the tractor trailer off into the woods. Just that fast the rain stops. I thought my time was up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
9 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

The scariest thing that happened to me on the highway. I was passing a big truck, in front of me was a Jeep we’re doing about 70. A blinding rain came up as I was reaching up to hit auto 4WD I saw headlights. Before I could react they disappeared I glanced in the rear view and saw the Jeep backing into the woods taking out little pine trees. The Jeep did a 180 in front of me, the momentum carried it missing the tractor trailer off into the woods. Just that fast the rain stops. I thought my time was up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good thing you turned on 4wd  :lol:

 

Tyler

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...