Jump to content

chirping

Luis

By Luis
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Luis New Member

Luis

Posted
Posted

my 2014 chevy silverado will chirp every time it switches from v4 to v8.  I was reading that there may be a fix for this.  my truck has 40k miles on it and just out of warranty.  Will gm do anything for this since it is happening to thousands of trucks of all different years?

ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

There is a tsb for it so they should. But I also have had the "fix" twice now. The new design doesn't chirp as much but it rattles loudly at idle. The old design you have has two square knobs. My advice would be to bolt it open and be done with it. The new design is not that easy to bolt the flapper open, but you would also be getting a new exhaust so that would be good I guess.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

Pretty typical of the Exhaust Adaptive or "flapper valve"  just behind the muffler.

Mine use to chirp also during V4 to V8 and also on warm startups. Thought it was my starter.

Some here have reported GM replacing entire exhaust under warranty. 

Option 2 is to clamp the valve open or try to lubricate the heck out of it.

Luis New Member

Luis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But if i clamp it open i have heard that it can do damage to engine.  Is this a true?

vinemann12 Enthusiast

vinemann12

Posted
Posted

My flapper valve started chirping / squeaking during V4 / V8 transfer at 1500 miles..

Dealership replaced entire exhaust system with new style valve assembly..

Unfortunately, with 40K on truck,, chances are they will not replace,, by give it a try anyway,, nothing to lose...

As others have stated,, either lock it open or just remove..

May be time for exhaust upgrade to better / nice sounding system..

 

Cheers---K

  • 2 months later...
Jeff D New Member

Jeff D

Posted
Posted

Just went today to my GMC dealership that sold me my 2015 Sierra last month for this chirping issue. They told me there is a new exhaust system for the 2015’s that will solve this flapper problem. Being under warranty still I will have it replaced within the next few weeks. I also told them there seems to be more vibration in the pedals while in motion than my 2004 model made. They told me the new suspensions are tighter and that there is more vibration felt in the newer models. So it seems newer isn’t always better in all aspects.

paumat Enthusiast

paumat

Posted
Posted

Had my 2015 looked at last week for the valve chirp but since I’m 6 months out of the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty, they wouldn’t replace it no charge. It’s not covered under the 5 year power train warranty. I was quoted $800 for the new exhaust. Figured I’ll clamp it open or put the $800 towards a borla/Corsa exhaust. 

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

Clamp it open and save the cash.

Sounds better clamped open.

A little droning here and there but not real noticeable.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...