Oil consption: GM top engine cleaner instructions

[narf04]

Hi all,

 

Long story short short...I have an iron block 5.3 2009 Silverado consuming about 2qts per 3k miles. Dealer was pushing for pistons and rings replaced, but said I need a new valve cover and cleaning first. I purchased an aftermarket aul warranty which has denied all the repairs (please don't get me started), so I'm going to give them a shot myself. The valve cover replacement looks straightforward. I purchased the top end cleaner to try to free the pistons/rings but am having trouble finding the procedure to do so. Is anyone aware of a write-up or instructions for this procedure?

 

Thanks, narf

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

 

[mookdoc6]

2 hours ago, narf04 said:

 

Hi all,

 

Long story short short...I have an iron block 5.3 2009 Silverado consuming about 2qts per 3k miles. Dealer was pushing for pistons and rings replaced, but said I need a new valve cover and cleaning first. I purchased an aftermarket aul warranty which has denied all the repairs (please don't get me started), so I'm going to give them a shot myself. The valve cover replacement looks straightforward. I purchased the top end cleaner to try to free the pistons/rings but am having trouble finding the procedure to do so. Is anyone aware of a write-up or instructions for this procedure?

 

Thanks, narf

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Jesus man?  THat is a lot!  I would have burned that thing up long before I got to my 4th pack of cigarettes?  What was that bang and now no power?  Yeah, you need to get the cleaning valve covers and unfortunately the pistons and rings too.....

[KARNUT]

I would tread lightly. On a ten year old vehicle if it’s running fine I don’t know if I would want to put cleaners through it. If you know the history of the vehicle and there are known fixes for oil consumption in that model other than rebuild go for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tbarn]

You have to pull the plugs on warm engine, rotate the engine so no pistons are tdc. Add the top engine cleaner to all cylinders and let it sit for at least 2 hours but not longer than 3 hours. Crank the engine over by hand or starter. Be careful if you use the starter. It can get messy. Reinstall the plugs, change the oil and drive it. It's best to be outside when you start it. This stuff smell horrible and smokes. Having said all that, our experience is only about 25% success rate.

[mn camper guy]

I Have a '10silverado and the valve cover fixed about 90% of my oil consunptuon.
Friend /tech at dealer said dont waste time with cleaner.


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[sefiroxx]

Compression test is a better indicator of ring problems. Cleaner runs the risk of dislodging some build up at the wrong point (clog an oil port, score a cylinder wall etc)

Typical loss areas include valve cover, valve seals, oil pan gasket, crank seals

[MaverickZ71]

I had the TSB (new valve cover with revised PCV orifice, deflector in oilpan, top-engine clean [VERY MESSY]) done right before my truck ran out of the 3yr/36k mi. warranty.  You can't even drop the oilpan on these things like you could on an old smallblock Chevy.  Apparently the dealer's mechanic just turned over the starter to blow the cleaner/carbon crud out of the spark plugs holes, without putting shop towels over the holes, like the instructions said to.  There was black dried-on crud sprayed everywhere, and it did not want to wash off.  

 

Read the "Does your truck use oil?" poll on this forum for scores of posts on the infamous GM AFM oil-usage problem and all of our attempts to fix it.  The TSB is posted there.  

 

The TSB procedure helped my aluminum-block 5.3L some but was not the miracle cure I was hoping for.  

 

Plugging in a Range V8 module into the OBD port made by far the most difference.  I have also run an oil treatment to help clean and free up the piston rings, and I run Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner to help clean the oil-fouled spark plugs that make the truck misfire sometimes.  

 

My truck used to use a quart of oil or more on a 100 mile highway trip.  Now it 'only' uses around 2-3 quarts between ~5000 mile oil changes.  

 

I wish GM had their AFM shoved up sideways, and I had a good Chevy smallblock under the hood!

[diyer2]

I would do an oil treatment like Sea Foam to try to free the rings.

Easy, cheap and a good product.

May take a few treatments.

Check this out 

 

 

[Tahoe02]

Cancel your current extended warranty and get a refund. Purchase an extended warranty that will fix your truck.

[sefiroxx]

Old school method to unstuck a siezed engine - atf/kerosene mix into the spark plug holes. Let it soak over night. Hand turn with breaker bar. Siphon off, oil changes, starter only cranks.

Dissolves, lubricates everything

[Grumpy Bear]

5 hours ago, diyer2 said:

I would do an oil treatment like Sea Foam to try to free the rings.

Easy, cheap and a good product.

May take a few treatments.

Check this out 

 

 

There is a motor whose oil was not changed nearly often enough. I would have loved to see the valve cover off this motor before cleaning: or oil pan.  Bet it looked like the TB before spray and several times thicker. 

 

Think he's one of the crowd that uses Kum & Go / Quick Trip / 7-11 30W and toilet paper cartridge filters on 20K intervals?  

 

 

[Black02Silverado]

You will be able to tell what shape the engine is in once you remove the valve covers.  Take pictures please.