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Wheel Spacer?

steve76t
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jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
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You have the bora 1.75 right? How much do they run?

Yup, like $125 a set. As long as you get a quality spacer you’ll be fine


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Donstar
Donstar

This tire size is very close to stock and I suspect the rubbing is a result of the level.  I wonder if switching to a smaller level kit would eliminate the rubbing?   A 1" or 1.5" level kit may  provi

pewterliftedz
pewterliftedz

BORA is the brand name of quality bolt on adapters: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/chevy_s   I personally wouldn't use the Rough County brand spacers, they're lug centric,

Crazyjoker77
Crazyjoker77

this thread needs more pictures and less blab.

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Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted

Close to pulling the trigger on a set, the wheel tuck really bugs me.  I was unaware of the difference in track width but now that I know I can't un-see it.  

 

Gonna order 1.5" for the front and 1.25" for the back.   I shouldn't have any rub in the front with the stock suspension and 20" wheels when using the 1.5" spacer right?

 

78.1mm / 3.08" the proper centerbore for hubcentric?

jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
Posted
Close to pulling the trigger on a set, the wheel tuck really bugs me.  I was unaware of the difference in track width but now that I know I can't un-see it.  
 
Gonna order 1.5" for the front and 1.25" for the back.   I shouldn't have any rub in the front with the stock suspension and 20" wheels when using the 1.5" spacer right?
 
78.1mm / 3.08" the proper centerbore for hubcentric?

Do you have a lift or level?


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Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted
20 minutes ago, jimmyboy8301 said:


Do you have a lift or level?


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no completely stock from factory with no plans to do either.

FORGIVEN06 Enthusiast

FORGIVEN06

Posted
Posted

 
Gonna order 1.5" for the front and 1.25" for the back.   I shouldn't have any rub in the front with the stock suspension and 20" wheels when using the 1.5" spacer right?
 


Someone correct me if I’m wrong but I thought the front stuck out .25” more then the rear on stock suspension?


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jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
Posted


Someone correct me if I’m wrong but I thought the front stuck out .25” more then the rear on stock suspension?


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That’s correct


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FORGIVEN06 Enthusiast

FORGIVEN06

Posted
Posted

Anyone know how much of the tip of the studs is not threaded? Also how much I can cut off and it not affect the threads/performance of the stud? Thanks in advance


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FORGIVEN06 Enthusiast

FORGIVEN06

Posted
Posted
ya i wrote the wrong thing.  I want a square setup.


I wasn’t questioning you I just didn’t want to screw it up myself because I’m thinking of doing something similar , only difference is I’m already flush with my fender with my offset in my wheel, I’m just trying to achieve a little more stance


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Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted
16 minutes ago, FORGIVEN06 said:

Anyone know how much of the tip of the studs is not threaded? Also how much I can cut off and it not affect the threads/performance of the stud? Thanks in advance


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I just ran out and removed 2 lugs of mine(one locking one oem).  There is 14mm between the top of the stud and the start of the first thread.

 

Funnily enough it took 14 turns to get the lug nut tight.  Therfore 14 threads of engagement is what is used stock.  I probably wouldn't go less than 10. (this is assuming stock wheels your aftermarket may be different thickness which will change the number)

 

What is the torque spec for the lugnuts?

FORGIVEN06 Enthusiast

FORGIVEN06

Posted
Posted
I just ran out and removed 2 lugs of mine(one locking one oem).  There is 14mm between the top of the stud and the start of the first thread.

 

Funnily enough it took 14 turns to get the lug nut tight.  Therfore 14 threads of engagement is what is used stock.  I probably wouldn't go less than 10. (this is assuming stock wheels your aftermarket may be different thickness which will change the number)

 

What is the torque spec for the lugnuts?

 

I believe it’s 150 ft lbs. but you got me thinking, even tho it takes 14 turns doesn’t mean that you need all 14 to “hold” the wheel on, so let’s say mine met the wheel at 10 turns to tighten, does that mean that the threads before that are not really needed to secure the wheel properly? Or what am I thinking is wrong?

 

 

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Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, FORGIVEN06 said:

 


I believe it’s 150 ft lbs. but you got me thinking, even tho it takes 14 turns doesn’t mean that you need all 14 to “hold” the wheel on, so let’s say mine met the wheel at 10 turns to tighten, does that mean that the treads before that are not really needed to secure the wheel properly? Or am I thinking is wrong?


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how many threads of engagement is what is important and is what provides the strength needed.  I'm not quite sure what your asking.  There are unused thread at both the back of the stud(the wheel thickness) and the back of the lugnut(the part where the unthreaded stud resides once tightened).  That 14mm of unthreaded stud is useless and you can cut it off with no ill effects.  adding spacers essentially increases the thickness of the wheel and therefore more threads are covered and cant be used.

 

 

 

FORGIVEN06 Enthusiast

FORGIVEN06

Posted
Posted
how many threads of engagement is what is important and is what provides the strength needed.  I'm not quite sure what your asking.  There are unused thread at both the back of the stud(the wheel thickness) and the back of the lugnut(the part where the unthreaded stud resides once tightened).  That 14mm of unthreaded stud is useless and you can cut it off with no ill effects.  adding spacers essentially increases the thickness of the wheel and therefore more threads are covered and cant be used.
 
 
 


So take for example the lugs that come with bora wheel spacers are only approximately 1/2” long. So in theory if I have at least let’s say 3/4 of thread to use then the lug should be able to tighten to specs no problem. So if there is any more then “needed” then I could cut this off and it could still work? Or is there a reason that this could be in safe?


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Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted

You can cut off any threads that come out the backside of the tightened open faced nut without affecting the strength.

 

 

The only real safety issues regarding spacers is

 

1. slip on spacers (the ones that dont have its own studs) these spacers essentially increase the thickness of the wheels and less threads get engaged.

 

2.  using adapter style spacers that are too thin.  When this style of spacer is too thin the factory lug nuts stick out past the face of the spacer and prevents the wheel from sitting flush against the face of the spacer.  This is the scenario when you would have to cut the stud so its behind the face of the adapter or the wheels need pockets on the backside between the mounting holes to accommodate the protruding studs.

 

3. Spacer out of balance.  The spacer is part of the rotating assembly along with the rims+tires.  If the spacers arent balanced you will have the same symptoms as your tires  being out of balance.  The only solution to this is to buy quality spacers.

 

4. Wrong hubcentric size.  If the adapter hub size is larger than the wheel it will prevent the wheel from sitting flush this is a very unsafe scenario.  If the adapter hub size is smaller you can get a hub ring to make up for the size difference.

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