6.0 Oil

[WANNAFARM2]

Just purchased a 19 6.0. Coming from a 14 1500 I have a bunch of 0w20 oil on hand. Has anyone ran 0w20 in a 6.0 or is it too light? 

[Colossus]

Don't run it if the owners manual says it is not approved.  it's as simple as that.  But you will be able to find someone to give it to!

[Saskquatch]

Read the owners manual... Or even the oil cap. 

[Cowpie]

Yeah, a 20 weight might be ok if only used as a daily driver, but I wouldn't try it.  The 6.0 calls for 5w30.   I am using a 10w30 full syn in my 6.0.  When it comes to 5w30 vs 10w30, only the cold flow rate is different.  No dealer or OEM can tell the difference between 5w30 and 10w30 if they tested it.  But they sure can tell the difference between a 20 weight and a 30 weight oil.  

 

I have gotten especially hooked on 10w30 for almost everything I own.  I run a 10w30 conventional Pennzoil in my wife's 2006 Cadillace CTS 3.6 that GM said needed M1 5w30.  12 year old car that has been one of the best vehicles I have ever owned and we are not getting rid of it for some time.   10w30 syn in my 2500 6.0.   I use a 10w30 syn blend in the 12.7L Series 60 motor in my semi truck.  Motor just turned 895,000 miles and only uses about 2 qt of oil in 25,000 mile oil changes.   Most would use something like a 15w40.  I don't see the need to do so.

 

For those that might have an issue with that, just use a good 5w30.  Nothing wrong with that.  

[Colossus]

You've got me interested in that 10w30. 

[SierraHD17]

I didn't use that watery 0w20 stuff in the applications it's called for in either.  Those lovely direct injected setups dilute the oil with enough fuel you don't need it already starting at that thin of a consistency.

[Cowpie]

20 hours ago, Colossus said:

You've got me interested in that 10w30. 

If you look over the spec sheets and compare, the 10w30 usually has the lowest NOACK (burn off) ratings.  The better full syn 10w30 oils have little or no viscosity modifiers in them.  And while VM generally does hold up well, it can shear under the right conditions and take the oil out of grade.  The less percentage of VM in a motor oil the better.   Quality 10w30 syn oils are extremely shear resistant.  

 

Some of the better full syn 10w30 oils are actually a straight 30 weight base oil.  But they meet the cold flow rating to qualify as a 10w30.   This is why some of the better 10w30 oils are extremely stable under the worse of conditions.  

 

And the better full syn 10w30 oils, they will flow within the maximum cSt of resistance as a average 5w30.  So even 10w30 can be safely used into subzero territory.  I would have no problem using  a quality 10w30  down to -25F actual temp.    My semi truck operates the northern tier of the 48 contiguous states year round.  I have no problem using a 10w30 in it in N. Dakota or Minnesota  in the dead of winter.  And it uses the same 10w30 when the outside temps are breaking 100F.  

 

And there is not a dealer or OEM on the planet that can tell the difference between 5w30 and 10w30 without resorting to extremely expensive analysis.   So there is virtually a zero chance of affecting warranty.  

 

I use a 10w30 full syn in my John Deere zero turn air cooled lawn mower that has to mow 2.5 acres of lawn every time it gets used.   I use the same 10w30 full syn in a Yamaha portable generator, winter or summer.   I use a 10w30 in all my vehicles... gas or diesel.   I use a 10w30 in a New Holland compact tractor.    I am solidly stuck on 10w30 across the board.  

 

Oh, I take that back.... I use a 10w40 in my Triumph Motorcycle.  But that oil has not only the motor to deal with, but also the clutch and gears.  thought it might be good to stick with what the OEM thought was best in that one.  I am tempted to use a 15w40 in it though, for the same reasoning that a 15w40 is a little more shear stable than a 10w40.

Edited October 28, 2018 by Cowpie

[GTBensley]

Not to get into a debate about oils, but what do you consider a quality 10-30? Inquiring minds want to know so I can try it.

[Black02Silverado]

On 10/24/2018 at 10:00 PM, WANNAFARM2 said:

Just purchased a 19 6.0. Coming from a 14 1500 I have a bunch of 0w20 oil on hand. Has anyone ran 0w20 in a 6.0 or is it too light? 

While under warranty I would use what is recommended in the owners manual.  After warranty the 0w-20 will work for daily use and nothing major on the hauling/towing side.

 

I'm running AMSOIL Signature Series 0w-20 in my 2002 Silverado with the 5.3.  No consumption issues and will pull a used oil analysis here when I get to 5k miles to see how it is doing. 

[i82much]

Why take the chance?  Run what you are supposed to run.  End of story.

[Revspan]

New hp engines new are moving to 0w-xx weight oil.  A very good....arguably better oil application would be 0w-40.  Same oil that is used in Corvette for current MY(no engine changes...just oil), and with the exception of the ZR1, you do not need to replace the oil(factory fill was 5w-30) when you go to the track(previously was a requirement to drain and switch to 15w-50....then switch back to 5w-30 for street use).

So...now, one oil validated for street AND track...except ZR1.  Validated by GM torture dynos to assure wear is better, fuel economy is better....this is the new oil in everything I own except my mercury marine engines.  Go buy 0w-40

is it specified for the 6.0?  No....but just think of the validation needed to change this, on an old engine.  They would not waste the dyno time and money....does not mean it is not better.  

[4x4Pete]

In my 6.0 I run full synthetic 5w30 and Napa/ Wix/ Mobil 1  filters.  I've never had a problem caused by the oil or filter on any vehicle or engine I've owned.  If you run a good quality recommended grade  oil and change it at regular intervals your engine will last a very long time. More than likely some other issue will bring an end to it before using the recommended oil. If it makes you feel good about using another grade of oil so be it. I highly doubt you will notice an increase of engine life, there are too many other factors at play to determine that. 

[Cowpie]

On 10/30/2018 at 8:46 AM, GTBensley said:

Not to get into a debate about oils, but what do you consider a quality 10-30? Inquiring minds want to know so I can try it.

Most any major brand offers a good 10w30 synthetic.  Surprisingly , the Wally World Supertech tests as good as the major brands.  Even some of the farm and home brands are really good.  Like Rural King.  

 

My primary choice in oil is Schaeffer that I get thru my business account with them.  They have been making oils and greases longer than anyone else in N. America.  Since 1839.  They developed the lubes for the M1 Abrams tank and the Apache helicopter.  They even make some products for Mobil and Shell.  

 

My second choice is the Amsoil line.  But again, I get some of their products for some applications related to by business so I get a reasonable pricing on stuff.  It is more of a choice for some of my niche applications. 

 

Both of these, one motivation on top of being good oils is that they send them to me free of charge.  I don't have to go shopping for oils.

 

But those are my choices. That in no way implies there are no other oils that are also good choices.  If you are into tech data, the Petroleum Quality Institute of America randomly tests various oils and they post their test results regarding formulation and such.  It is a good place to start.  

[gearheadesw]

OP seems to be long gone, 1 post. But if he lived in a cold environment, going into winter, wouldn't the 0w-20 behave nicely in the cold nastiness you guys get to deal with?

Edited November 4, 2018 by gearheadesw

[Black02Silverado]

1 hour ago, gearheadesw said:

OP seems to be long gone, 1 post. But if he lived in a cold environment, going into winter, wouldn't the 0w-20 behave nicely in the cold nastiness you guys get to deal with?

5w-30 dexos 1 would be just fine in his cold conditions.  0w-30 would be a better fit it it stayed cold below zero for start up protection.