Jump to content

Tried taking off the factory mud flaps and found this....

ChaseM
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Donnyb313 Enthusiast

Donnyb313

Posted
Posted (edited)

Any updates on what these plugs look like? Would love to see some pics. I'm probably going to take the front OEM flaps off my trailboss and put on larger standard style mud flaps (not molded)

 

Is there a plastic trim piece I could get from the dealer that would cover the hole behind the front mud flap? 

 

Anyone have a US source for the plugs? I don't care if they're not painted 

Edited by Donnyb313
Wiggums Senior Enthusiast

Wiggums

Posted
Posted

Goodness, when I first saw the picture, I was absolutely mortified at the unpainted steel then realized it was the reflection and you were referring to the holes.

Sotally Tober Enthusiast

Sotally Tober

Posted
Posted
On 3/26/2019 at 12:05 PM, Donnyb313 said:

Any updates on what these plugs look like? Would love to see some pics. I'm probably going to take the front OEM flaps off my trailboss and put on larger standard style mud flaps (not molded)

 

Is there a plastic trim piece I could get from the dealer that would cover the hole behind the front mud flap? 

 

Anyone have a US source for the plugs? I don't care if they're not painted 

Here you go!  From the US:  https://www.sharptruck.com/gatorback-color-match-summit-white-replacement-plugs-10-pack

  • Thanks 1
  • 9 months later...
sunarf Enthusiast

sunarf

Posted
Posted

I just got my 2020 Silverado. I'm also looking to remove the mud flaps and install the plugs. I assume that I will need four (4) plugs?

 

Thanks.

Sotally Tober Enthusiast

Sotally Tober

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, sunarf said:

I just got my 2020 Silverado. I'm also looking to remove the mud flaps and install the plugs. I assume that I will need four (4) plugs?

 

Thanks.

Yes.  Follow my link posted right above.  They work perfectly.

Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted

OEMs are stone guards not mud flaps. If you remove them and do not replace with mud flaps, you'll soon find out why they are called stone guards; and, the damaged caused to the paint by kicked up stones will take your mind off the hole.

 

I can see using the plug for the exposed hole if also adding flat rubber flaps, but the wrap around molded ones make adding a plug unnecessary, provides added firmness and prevents water and abrasive road grit from getting behind the flap where it can sit and with flap movement being blasted with rocks, stones, ice chunks eventually grind away the paint and rust out the area underneath.

  • 3 months later...
Sotally Tober Enthusiast

Sotally Tober

Posted
Posted
On 5/3/2020 at 8:12 AM, 2019Custom said:

Thank you for this. Anything special with installation or is it simply a push plug?

Just a push plug.  Super easy.

  • 10 months later...
fluxcapacitor11 Enthusiast

fluxcapacitor11

Posted
Posted
On 5/4/2020 at 5:29 PM, Sotally Tober said:

Just a push plug.  Super easy.

sorry to resurrect a dead thread. just got a 21 silverado.  how did these plugs hold up long term?  i see the sharp truck ones say they don't work on the back, and another thread said they were too short for the back.  Wondering if they fell out over time or anything wonky.   thanks!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bwiese
      seat base height *lowering* (base 40/20/40 seat, 2026 1500 WT std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • bwiese
      on-wheel cellphone control: 2026 1500 WT (2.7L 4WD std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • sFrank
      2026 Silverado Range AFM DFM ECU loaction

      By sFrank · Posted

      So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • No F-bdy Bs
      Dave's Auto (custom engine builder) tear down of L8T

      By No F-bdy Bs · Posted

      Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...