Jump to content

2017 Silverado - Fuel Injector Replacement Help

Shaversilverado

By Shaversilverado
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Shaversilverado Enthusiast

Shaversilverado

Posted
Posted

Looking for help/instructions on replacing fuel injector/s for a 2017 5.3L Silverado. Truck has 80K miles on it and a #5  misfire. Dealer ran a diagnostics and said the injector needs to be replaced.

 

I found a couple pictures on the forum of the fuel injectors but very little information on steps to replace them. The only videos I could find online were for older models with a different injector diagram. Talking to the dealer they quoted me $770 to replace a single injector, gaskets and piping associated with the job. 4 hours or labor and $240 in parts. 

 

Are there any good instructions or videos out there on replacing fuel injectors on a 2017 Silverado?

I've never done a job like this but consider myself mechanically include, is this an easy enough job or should I leave this to the dealer to do?

I know they say if your replacing a single injector you might as well replace all 4 on one bank but is that really necessary, $110 a piece and if the other 3 are fine why replace them?

 

The dealer said the piping and gaskets must be replaced even for a single injector replacement job. Is this all necessary? I've never had another vehicle with injector problems so this will be a first. 

Parts quoted-

12687650           (1) injector

12626354           (8) gaskets

12677002           (1)  pipe

12677004           (1) pipe

 

Any help, links to instruction/diagrams or videos would be awesome! I enjoy working on these projects rather than paying someone else to do the work since you learn something every time. I also want it done right.

 

Thanks all in advance!

 

 

Engine1.PNG

injector 2.PNG

Injectors.PNG

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

If you pull one bank of injectors and replace one, the other 3 need the lower seals replaced. Requires special tools to install and size the new seals.

Shaversilverado Enthusiast

Shaversilverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm looking online now at parts, I just found all the parts I listed above to half the price the dealer quoted me.

 

Would the replacements for the lower seals be included in the "seal kit" part # 12672366 ?

 

Are the special tools something only the dealer would have? 

 

Why replace (8) intake manifold gaskets as the dealer has parts on the quote?  12626354           (8) gaskets 

 

It seems to me someone out there would have put together some step by step or video of replacing these since I've read several forums with guys having bad injectors on these new trucks. 

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

I can't seem to locate the injector r&r in my alldata mobile app. I'll check on the pc once I'm home.

 

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Ozer Enthusiast

Ozer

Posted
Posted

Man, on a 2017 you need new injector already?

You should contact GM and complain.

 

My 2011 BMW x5 needs #6. Dealer quoted $1400.

Getting it done elsewhere for $700. Hope its not that expensive for you.

Shaversilverado Enthusiast

Shaversilverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've received two different quotes now from dealers for $770 to replace a single injector. Even though only the #5 injector is misfiring and bad they are recommending replacing all 4 on the side. To replace 4 it would be around $1200

 

I can buy all the new parts for around $150.  I was hoping to attempt the work myself and figured even if it took me a day to do the work at least I learned something and can do it again next time. Reading more and more forums it sounds like this can be a common problem and I don't plan on paying $770 each time I need an injector replaced. 

 

 

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

I'm not finding any info on injector/ orings when i search through alldata on the pc. I spoke with a rep last week and he said they have the ability to add info. I'll see if they can add that r&r along with the emissions.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

Still no response via email. They apparently don't deal with dyi customers over the phone...

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

cpttimerestraint Enthusiast

cpttimerestraint

Posted
Posted

If you look up super charger instruction manuals, they give you step by step instructions with color photos for removing the intake.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
That would be great, I appreciate your help!
Finally got word back from all data. I'll post what I have found in a few

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

  • 9 months later...
Oldblue90 New Member

Oldblue90

Posted
Posted

 

I ran into the issue of not knowing and took mine to the stealership and paid $1000 for one injector and a ignition coil.  Never again.  I had searched for days to figure out the issue and finally came upon this video where he did this on a suburban or a tahoe but it is the same process for a silverado.  Looks time consuming but the parts are less expensive.  Roughly under $400 if you do all the parts.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...