Jump to content

Rough country vertex coilovers


arkenzo

Recommended Posts

Posted

That looks very nice. And I'm sure many people like the fact the reservoir mounted on it. easier install. That said I don't understand why people mount them there. Seams like it is the worst spot when it comes to dirt and debris. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have them set at 7” on my 2017. I personally love them. They’re great on and off road. I keep them set at 4-5 usually. I’m waiting for the extra $$$ to buy the rear shocks and I can imagine it’ll be a world of difference.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Awesome that’s good to know. I’ll be doing this down the road. Currently have the 2.5” level lift with Bilstein 4600’s. 

Posted
On ‎1‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 10:46 AM, DylanG said:

I have them set at 7” on my 2017. I personally love them. They’re great on and off road. I keep them set at 4-5 usually. I’m waiting for the extra $$$ to buy the rear shocks and I can imagine it’ll be a world of difference.

I'm considering them on my 17 as well. I currently am running a Fabtech 7" lift with the strut spacer. Ride is good, but I'm sure these would make it much better. What lift you running ?

  • 7 months later...
Posted
On 12/13/2018 at 1:43 PM, arkenzo said:

 

Just checking out the rc website and saw they released their new coilovers for suspension lifted trucks 6-8inchs, theyre getting positive reviews so I wonder if anyone on this forum is running those coilovers?

 

 

https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-vertex-coilovers-689001.html

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

YES. They are well built and ride great

New pic 7.5 - 2.jpg

Vertex full.jpg

Posted
YES. They are well built and ride great
1163373150_Newpic7.5-2.thumb.jpg.523d26cf924761c1d30a81a4f653ba21.jpg
762586796_Vertexfull.thumb.jpg.9e2d5521ca46e5e6d36178eae6fbaefa.jpg

Looks good! What suspension lift do you have ?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I have the rears and they’re pretty sweet. I bought some RC lifted struts about a month before the coil overs came out and was pissed when I found out they had coil overs. May eventually get them if I can stomach replacing the near brand new front struts I have now lol. 

Posted

Wonder how these ride compared to BDS struts. I wonder if you set it at the lowest setting if it will ride nicer than it does with the BDS struts.

Posted
Wonder how these ride compared to BDS struts. I wonder if you set it at the lowest setting if it will ride nicer than it does with the BDS struts.

I believe the bds struts non fox ones are closer to $1500 no?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
2 hours ago, arkenzo said:


I believe the bds struts non fox ones are closer to $1500 no?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think they are like $300-400? The coilovers, which are fox, are like $1600.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...