Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On ‎3‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 12:46 PM, z1boss said:

 

 

 

Here are the complete step by step instructions to get to the Passive door locks settings.

 

1.  From the main menu, click Settings.

 

Screenshot_20190305-124546_Gallery.thumb.jpg.9e46dd63e2905365bdb6c836d3ed77a0.jpg

 

2.  Click Vehicle in the top right corner.

 

Screenshot_20190305-124512_Gallery.thumb.jpg.1b6fd3ef568e7d8457b132284c3f0188.jpg

 

3.  Click the down arrow to scroll down once and then click Remote Lock, Unlock, and Start.

 

Screenshot_20190305-124519_Gallery.thumb.jpg.881f84a581f80c98ac3ca152b73d0c28.jpg

 

4.  Click the down arrow to scroll down once and then you will see the two Passive door options.  From here, you will be able to change the settings.

 

Screenshot_20190305-124523_Gallery.thumb.jpg.2d16211189c7e74cc9beb99f46021c61.jpg

 

 

Let me know if you try this and you dont have these options.  Just curious if my theory about Convenience Package 2 is correct.

Yep finally got it squared away, thanks for the help

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 3/3/2019 at 8:04 PM, towdog333 said:

Just found out that the door handle button locks the door but won't open ?????

Have a 2019 Tahoe only 12K miles that continues to have handle button issues. Have return to the service department 4 times only to hear "It's your problem" Chevrolet has "no Issues with any door buttons". Tahoe is back at the dealership again today, drivers button doesn't work. Now the service manager claims it's the antenna in the door not working? Claims Chevrolet knows about "some issues" but has no repair or knowledge of any issues. Ask that I come get the truck and keep using the FOB to lock and unlock the door. Anyone got the same issues or know the repair for this service group?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have a 2019 gmc elevation that the doors will not unlock when the handle button is selected.   It worked yesterday.   Remote works fine locking and unlocking the doors
 

When select button all doors should unlock (passive door unlock setting)

Posted

If my key is in the same pocket as my phone the door handle buttons will not work. Switch the key to an empty pocket and works no problem. Just an FYI for you guys.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks, although it’s not the problem.   This may be the result of me opening my truck windows with my remote and hitting several buttons before getting it right.  I’m not sure so I didn’t want to add it initially to add more confusion.  
 

Posted
On 3/4/2019 at 2:43 PM, z1boss said:

Yeah that's a temporary disable with a re-enable.  If you go into   Settings>Vehicle>Remote Lock, Unlock, and Start you can set what the buttons do under Passive Door Lock and Passive Door Unlock.  Mine is set to unlock only drivers door if pressed once on the drivers door button and unlock all doors if pressed twice.  Pressing any door handle button while unlocked with lock all doors.  I also have automatic locking enabled for 5 secs after closing all doors

I have mine set to open all door with push of the button on the handle as long as I have fob in my pocket.

Posted

Thanks to the person that stated to press the lock/unlock button on the remote at the same time to make the outside door lock buttons work again.  That did the trick!!! 

 

P.S. Don’t buy a new generation GMC Sierra 2019+ unless U like recall after recall, leaking window, flooded floor and no available parts (carpet) and a transmission that shifts like a 1972 dodge power wagon.     If no service fault indicator It can’t be fixed.  
 

Sorry, GM owner but what piece of ’*^*%!   Chevy is having similar issues but not as bad as GMC.  JDP Initially quality my ass.  Maybe the last 2-3 years of a generation after years of figuring it out.  

Anyway, thanks for your help. I’m sure I’ll be using this site a lot or banded from it.

 

Can you say 5 weeks, that is how long my brand new truck has been at the dealer   Do you know what GM offered me for the BS I had to deal with, free Onstar for a couple months.   Really!!!!

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 3/4/2019 at 11:46 AM, towdog333 said:

I didn't see anything in the setting menu for door handle locks, but will double check again. Plus they worked before and I know I didn't change nothing on any setting


Settings - Vehicle- - Remote Lock, Unlock,Start - Passive Door Unlock

 

 

Posted

I'm having a similar issue with my 2020 Sierra HD Denali. The doors will lock/unlock on both passenger door buttons, but not on either driver side doors!! any thoughts? TIA

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/21/2020 at 8:11 PM, FuzzyManSir said:

I have a 2019 gmc elevation that the doors will not unlock when the handle button is selected.   It worked yesterday.   Remote works fine locking and unlocking the doors
 

When select button all doors should unlock (passive door unlock setting)

Yes i have the same vehicle and mine just started doing the same thing  2019 GMC elevation !!

Posted

Nothing yet. I’m still within the warranty and soon will need an oil change. I’ll have them look at it then and post the “cure”

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

so have my truck in for this button problem. GMC is telling me that there is an antenna inside the door that

senses the fob, and that is what's wrong. They also said my drivers door window had been replaced since there was some shattered glass inside the door and whom ever replaced it did not replace an internal seal causing water to enter the door.

 

They think that's what caused the malfunction with the buttons on the driver's side. so they also have to order that seal but it's not covered under the warranty. Guess this is what happens when you buy a used vehicle (especially with low miles). Can't imagine that rain/water would have broken that antenna/feature in 13,400 miles!! When i pick the truck up i will question them more.

Edited by obazsm
Posted
On 9/8/2021 at 10:13 PM, Timothy Richardson said:

Thank you good luck 

Locks are working properly, read above for the fix (at least what fixed mine)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...