Jump to content

37" tires


Recommended Posts

Posted

I had a 2008 sierra 1500 lifted with 35's and regeared to 4.56 with a trutrac and black bear tune. I know that's a different truck but in my opinion if you want 37's get a 2500. Even 35's are hard on everything for a half ton long term. People that don't put on a lot of miles or trade in their truck every year or two will disagree though.

If none of that matters to you regear for the fun factor. :)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

Posted

If you have a 6.2L All Terrain you will have 3.23 gears, not the 3.42 gears. The 3.42 ratio is only available with the 6.2L, 8L90e and NHT (Max Towing) package, which you can't spec on the All Terrain trim. 

 

I noticed a huge loss just going to a new tire on mine, 2-3mpg loss on stock wheels going to a 33" tire. Power is noticeably down because each tire/wheel is now 25lbs heavier than the stock bologna skins. I think I would be considering a gear swap at the 35" mark, so I would definitely go to a 3.42 for a 37" tire. You don't need to gear too much as your transmission ratios are too close to justify something like a 4.10 gear. Most of the gearing now is done in the transmission so the driving attributes are less dependant on the FD ratio than they were with the old wide-spread 4 speeds. A small gear change will make a big difference in these new 8+ speed transmissions. I would say if you are set on a 37" mount them, drive it, then decide if you can live with the power and fuel economy loss before re-gearing but it would make the truck easier to live with. 

Posted
12 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

If you have a 6.2L All Terrain you will have 3.23 gears, not the 3.42 gears. The 3.42 ratio is only available with the 6.2L, 8L90e and NHT (Max Towing) package, which you can't spec on the All Terrain trim. 

 

I noticed a huge loss just going to a new tire on mine, 2-3mpg loss on stock wheels going to a 33" tire. Power is noticeably down because each tire/wheel is now 25lbs heavier than the stock bologna skins. I think I would be considering a gear swap at the 35" mark, so I would definitely go to a 3.42 for a 37" tire. You don't need to gear too much as your transmission ratios are too close to justify something like a 4.10 gear. Most of the gearing now is done in the transmission so the driving attributes are less dependant on the FD ratio than they were with the old wide-spread 4 speeds. A small gear change will make a big difference in these new 8+ speed transmissions. I would say if you are set on a 37" mount them, drive it, then decide if you can live with the power and fuel economy loss before re-gearing but it would make the truck easier to live with. 

OP has 2014 so I doubt he has an 8 speed.  And going from a 3.23 to a 3.42 will make no difference at all.  A 4.10 would be a lot better and a 4.56 would be best. 

 

That's just my OPINION.  Just stating that so the cry babies wont have a fit

Posted

If you don’t drive it much then I wouldn’t worry about gearing. I’d be more worried about if they’ll fit or not 

Posted
If you have a 6.2L All Terrain you will have 3.23 gears, not the 3.42 gears. The 3.42 ratio is only available with the 6.2L, 8L90e and NHT (Max Towing) package, which you can't spec on the All Terrain trim. 
 
I noticed a huge loss just going to a new tire on mine, 2-3mpg loss on stock wheels going to a 33" tire. Power is noticeably down because each tire/wheel is now 25lbs heavier than the stock bologna skins. I think I would be considering a gear swap at the 35" mark, so I would definitely go to a 3.42 for a 37" tire. You don't need to gear too much as your transmission ratios are too close to justify something like a 4.10 gear. Most of the gearing now is done in the transmission so the driving attributes are less dependant on the FD ratio than they were with the old wide-spread 4 speeds. A small gear change will make a big difference in these new 8+ speed transmissions. I would say if you are set on a 37" mount them, drive it, then decide if you can live with the power and fuel economy loss before re-gearing but it would make the truck easier to live with. 
Just checked I have the Gu6 code which = the 3.42 gears. Not sure where you got the above info from...

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Posted
17 hours ago, doozer78 said:

Just checked I have the Gu6 code which = the 3.42 gears. Not sure where you got the above info from...

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 

I skimmed over or misread that the OP had a 2015+, not a 2014. The 2014's only had the 6L80e available for the 6.2L if I remember right. My info pertains to 8L90e equipped trucks only. My bad. 

Posted

Gotcha yes mine is a 2014 model so it must of been available then

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Posted

Put on those 37's, lets see this. With the amount of driving that you do, you'll only notice the difference in looks.

Posted

It may be a while still but wanted some input first

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Posted

You have 35's now, how does it go? If  you fit them, that's half the battle. You truly drive so little, that the extra wear won't effect you like a daily driver.

 

Posted

What do you use the truck for?  Why do you want 37's?  If it's just looks, go for it as is without gears.  If you tow or use the truck off-road, re-gear and look to strengthen the drivetrain.  37's will break stuff off-road, particularly in the front axle.  Also remember that the higher numeric gear ratios are not as strong due to smaller pinion gears.

Posted

I have no complaints with the 35s now and how it runs. I initially had a 14 Silverado which was a daily driver and the engine blew. So after the battle I had with that the dealer I bought it from basically gave me what I paid for it on trade in and that's when I took the 14 Allterrain. In between that time I also acquired a car to commute to and from work which I still use therefore I don't drive the truck on a daily basis. I drive it primarily in the nicer weather months and when I need to haul bigger items that i can put in the bed. I do some occasional Towing but it's very rare. The truck originally came from Canada so the less I have to drive it in the winter months and keep the salt off of it the better for me since i plan on keeping it for a while. I see no point driving it to work 7 miles one way and then driving it right back home and parking it on a daily basis. I like having a nicer vehicle that I can take out on the weekends and on nice days or evenings. I do think if I get 37s at some point it will give the truck a little beefier look. I'm not dead set on doing it it's just he thought I had in the back of my head for when the time comes

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Posted
12 minutes ago, doozer78 said:

I have no complaints with the 35s now and how it runs. I initially had a 14 Silverado which was a daily driver and the engine blew. So after the battle I had with that the dealer I bought it from basically gave me what I paid for it on trade in and that's when I took the 14 Allterrain. In between that time I also acquired a car to commute to and from work which I still use therefore I don't drive the truck on a daily basis. I drive it primarily in the nicer weather months and when I need to haul bigger items that i can put in the bed. I do some occasional Towing but it's very rare. The truck originally came from Canada so the less I have to drive it in the winter months and keep the salt off of it the better for me since i plan on keeping it for a while. I see no point driving it to work 7 miles one way and then driving it right back home and parking it on a daily basis. I like having a nicer vehicle that I can take out on the weekends and on nice days or evenings. I do think if I get 37s at some point it will give the truck a little beefier look. I'm not dead set on doing it it's just he thought I had in the back of my head for when the time comes

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 

You sound like me. Mine is currently wintering in the garage as well. Got to love Ontario's magnesium chlorate. It will rot out parked to close to the stuff, never mind bathed in it daily. I should sell mine and buy a Corvette honestly for what I do with it. If I have a show pony it might as well be something special rather than my dubbed "Canadian Corvette" 6.2L truck. 

Posted
You sound like me. Mine is currently wintering in the garage as well. Got to love Ontario's magnesium chlorate. It will rot out parked to close to the stuff, never mind bathed in it daily. I should sell mine and buy a Corvette honestly for what I do with it. If I have a show pony it might as well be something special rather than my dubbed "Canadian Corvette" 6.2L truck. 
Im from Pittsburgh pa area and we have our share of salt use in winter months so if I can keep it away I will

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
    • I'm pretty sure it doesn't actually recalibrate the speedometer it just changes the wheel speed sensor inputs to the computer. The truck still thinks it has stock tires.
    • I apologize, I missed this post, at risk of going off CURRENT TOPIC.   I'm not saying it is BS, I'm questioning how much information is being held back. GM is NOT going to spell out exactly every parameter in the algorithm. Liability, intellectual property, etc.    I'm not naive enough to believe that it is as simple as revolutions, coolant temperature, miles, time; are you?    I don't do irrational either, and boiling the OLM down to four simple values that I could code in an afternoon (I'm not a coder) is irrational - unless it suits your agenda to ignore it. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...