Jump to content

factory subwoofer

Stovespipe
 Share

Recommended Posts

AustinQuattro Enthusiast

AustinQuattro

Posted
Posted
On 7/2/2020 at 10:56 AM, BigBird said:

Yep, I turned my head unit down to 0 and the remote knob is in the middle, I think that's a good starting point depending on the music. My sub is 2 ohms as well

 

How much gain did you end up needing to use on the amp?  I wasn't sure how far up I could turn the adjustment on the LOC.  Amp shows it is good at 6V on the low setting and I wanted to keep it as close to that as possible.  It sounds SOOOO much better now listening to music and being able to hear it and reduce strain on the front speakers.  It's no audiophile level system, but a vast improvement for minimal dollars.

 

When I turn the bass up to screw around on a bass heavy song, it does rattle the floor board enough to hear just rattling outside the truck, but generally I'm not listening to that type music much, especially that loud, anyhow.  But, I'm wondering if some dynamat on the floor in the back would deaden that some.

  • Replies 344
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Wakezilla
Wakezilla

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12

hardloaf
hardloaf

I've uploaded video to youtube - I think this works better than pictures. GM Sub, installed

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

I had my own made...fits right inside the factory box under seat.  Just factory BOSE with a little extra 12in kick in the back.     

Posted Images

BigBird Enthusiast

BigBird

Posted
Posted
On 8/8/2020 at 11:16 AM, AustinQuattro said:

How much gain did you end up needing to use on the amp?  I wasn't sure how far up I could turn the adjustment on the LOC.  Amp shows it is good at 6V on the low setting and I wanted to keep it as close to that as possible.  It sounds SOOOO much better now listening to music and being able to hear it and reduce strain on the front speakers.  It's no audiophile level system, but a vast improvement for minimal dollars.

 

When I turn the bass up to screw around on a bass heavy song, it does rattle the floor board enough to hear just rattling outside the truck, but generally I'm not listening to that type music much, especially that loud, anyhow.  But, I'm wondering if some dynamat on the floor in the back would deaden that some.

I turned the amp and LOC just about all the way up and have no distortion at all but I haven't really played with all the settings on the amp yet. Works real well right out the box the way it is.

 

I'm extremely happy with how it turned out considering I got a little over 400 in the whole setup

Wakezilla Enthusiast

Wakezilla

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 5/27/2020 at 11:35 PM, OilfieldTrash78 said:

So, what’s the consensus on this?  I would like a little more thump.  I listen to mostly rock.  Is this sub worth it?  I have a 2020 AT4 with Bose

 

 

Edited by Wakezilla
Ecroofing01 Enthusiast

Ecroofing01

Posted
Posted

This is cool but doesn’t do anything with the  Bose speakers that don’t really have sound from the rear. I added the NAV unit, JL amp with DSP and Hertz component speakers with Audison in the dash. Sounded awesome except the NAV unit is a POS and never works properly. Back to stock Bose amp, new speakers and a JL 10. Having separate tweaters in back helps. It’s decent until another company comes out with something to take the signal to the amp besides NAVTv. Do not buy their product. They will continue to lie and say it’s an update issue. My installer did updates and set it up with RCA’s and it still Turns off for no reason 

  • 3 weeks later...
TSchevy Enthusiast

TSchevy

Posted
Posted

Can anyone offer some direction on splicing for the kicker system?  I am a bit lost on the wiring...

I want to get this right.

 

I read every post on this, found a lot of helpful info. Strange that is such variability on the colors.  Yellow/black and yellow/blue for me. Thinking to go brown/yellow/black and green/yellow/blue.  I also wasn’t sure if I was too far down on the wiring...
 

Appreciate all previous posts and any new ones. 

8BC6E1AE-290F-467F-8A44-F724F35C8F5D.jpeg

5C76ACE3-92AA-4EBB-A75D-D4D4EEEFCDF9.jpeg

947B26E6-4855-4AC7-ACAA-59D7390E7942.jpeg

TSchevy Enthusiast

TSchevy

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, TSchevy said:

Can anyone offer some direction on splicing for the kicker system?  I am a bit lost on the wiring...

I want to get this right.

 

I read every post on this, found a lot of helpful info. Strange that is such variability on the colors.  Yellow/black and yellow/blue for me. Thinking to go brown/yellow/black and green/yellow/blue.  I also wasn’t sure if I was too far down on the wiring...
 

Appreciate all previous posts and any new ones. 

8BC6E1AE-290F-467F-8A44-F724F35C8F5D.jpeg

5C76ACE3-92AA-4EBB-A75D-D4D4EEEFCDF9.jpeg

947B26E6-4855-4AC7-ACAA-59D7390E7942.jpeg

I just went for it.  Works great!  Fade/Balance works as intended.  Control knob should be here Monday.


Already love this system. It’s not the system of my younger years, but it’s clean, punchy, and preserves some of the storage. 

Randy12 New Member

Randy12

Posted
Posted

I just finished installing the Kicker sub in my 2020 AT4 with Bose system. I also added the Kicker CXARC control. I played around with the Kicker Amp's dip switches and decided the factory setting is good enough (1 up, 2-3 down, 4-6 up). I have my Bass EQ set to 0 on the head unit and the CXARC set in the middle. One thing to note when installing is you do not need to cut the floor mat around the sub (if I need to pull it out I will just loosen the sub box mounts and remove). I tested the sub with Dire Straits - Money for Nothing (CD on USB drive), some other Artists/Songs and Sat radio and it integrates perfectly. Setting the Bass EQ to 0 removed all most of the bass from the found doors which really make a difference.

Also on the factory under rear seat storage you have to remove, I am going to cut mine to fit up to the sub box (left side) for the right side and edge with plastic trim you can find on Amazon (need 1/16" I believe). I will cut a template from cardboard so to get a good fit when I cut it.

Randy12 New Member

Randy12

Posted
Posted

Here is a pic of the modified GM under rear seat storage so to fit with the Kicker sub, I marked it with tape and cut it with a hacksaw. Also I attached the Amp with 2 sided tape so I can take out to adjust switches if needed easily instead of messing with the hard to access screws.

TSchevy Enthusiast

TSchevy

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Randy12 said:

Here is a pic of the modified GM under rear seat storage so to fit with the Kicker sub, I marked it with tape and cut it with a hacksaw. Also I attached the Amp with 2 sided tape so I can take out to adjust switches if needed easily instead of messing with the hard to access screws.

Can’t get photos to load. 
I cut the passenger side of the storage to the sub and plan to cut a section of the drivers side to add some carpet protection where the dealer trimmed the floor mat. 
 

I haven’t connected the knob yet...it’s in USPS la la land.  I’m hoping it helps a lot.  I’m not getting the punch out of rock/metal music. Hip hop hits pretty hard, but I’m really wanting to hear that bass drum pop.  I don’t want to make any changes to the switches until the knob arrives. 

Randy12 New Member

Randy12

Posted
Posted

I resized the 2 photos so they should display now. Also I believe you really need the control to get the bass pumped up. There is a good place to mount the control knob right next to the hood latch release on the driver's side (only spot that has a flange lip wide enough I could see).

20200915_124352.jpg

20200915_124541.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Abelc007 New Member

Abelc007

Posted
Posted

Hello guys i have a 2020 silverado 1500 with 7” screen i think i have IOR radio and i stupidly got the 19417166 part and i think it wont work with my radio any way i can make it work?? Any help!! Please!!!

deoutdoors Enthusiast

deoutdoors

Posted
Posted

Where are the dip switches that everyone is talking about. The amp on the wall or the amp attached to the sub box. Do I need to remove a cover on the amp to access?

Kyle Royston Enthusiast

Kyle Royston

Posted
Posted
Where are the dip switches that everyone is talking about. The amp on the wall or the amp attached to the sub box. Do I need to remove a cover on the amp to access?

Behind a rubber plug on the back side of the amp. You need to remove the four screws holding the amp to the enclosure, then remove the plug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,724
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    No1UKnow
    Newest Member
    No1UKnow
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,094 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • davester
      Tranmission stays in Low

      By davester · Posted

      get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • asilverblazer
      Stabilitrak conversion to Z71

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • PunchT37
      Oil Consumption

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...