Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
22 hours ago, McCoy7 said:

 How did you remove them? 

There are 2 release buttons on the sides of the plastic grommets into which the headrest bars go into. Press them in at the same time and the headrest will pull up and eventually come out. You will probably have to fold the headrest down to get it out.

Posted
On 7/13/2019 at 11:37 PM, McCoy7 said:

I have had mine 2 weeks and kept hearing a rattle over certain bumps been saying I am going to take it back to service.  I figured out today this is what it is.  How did you remove them? 

Just push the button on one side of the base and wiggle the head rest out, it's a little tight.  I pulled the bars apart a bit when I switched then around and all was good when I put them back in.

Posted

I pulled my headrests out and stretched out the bars a little bit and reinstalled and boom problem solved.  Thanks guys!!!!!!

 

I hated to have to do that myself on a brand new truck but sure beats taking time to go to dealer.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 7/16/2019 at 8:05 AM, McCoy7 said:

I pulled my headrests out and stretched out the bars a little bit and reinstalled and boom problem solved.  Thanks guys!!!!!!

 

I hated to have to do that myself on a brand new truck but sure beats taking time to go to dealer.  

Just went out and did this to mine as well and so far so good. went for a short drive and all was quiet. Thank you all!

Posted

It’s been a few days shy of 3 weeks since the dealer did a slight pull apart on mine and it hasn’t come back yet.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

We recently bought our 2019 Sierra 1500, we have maybe 300miles on it, and the same issue with the rattle in the headrest. Did what Wheelguy suggested and took care of it. Thx Wheelguy.

Posted
6 hours ago, Renovator said:

We recently bought our 2019 Sierra 1500, we have maybe 300miles on it, and the same issue with the rattle in the headrest. Did what Wheelguy suggested and took care of it. Thx Wheelguy.

Not a problem. That’s one of the reasons we’re on the forums - to share knowledge & experiences. Thanks goes to the service tech that was nice enough to allow me in the shop area & actually show me what he was doing and make sure I was OK with it.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Thanks, I will have to spread the posts a little bit, and see if that helps.

 

Coming from a 2002 Siverado with over 200k miles that had no rattles, I found it quite annoying.

Chevy's interior quality going down the shitter?

 

Jeff

Posted

Great advice on widening the headrest stems.  For those of you that would rather not address this yourself and let dealership take care of it, a temporary solution is to simply fold up a small towel and stuff it between the rear window and back of headrest.

Posted

Yes I have heard this same issue. My temporary solution was... if you press the button as if you were to raise the head rest up, you can instead push them down slightly. They are not locked into place but it does solve the rattle until you can properly have them fixed. I hope my explanation makes sense and I hope it works for you guys too. 

Posted

I am also having a terrible rattle coming from the rear cabin on the driver's side. The sound is not coming from the headrest like others have suggested but actually from the back seat itself shaking. The only temporary solution I have found is to fold up the rear seat, which keeps the backrest from shaking. I can easily recreate this sound by opening the small compartment in the seat back and shaking the seat.   

Posted

I am new to the forum.  I picked up a 2019 GMC Sierra SLT a couple weeks ago and had this rattle almost immediately.  I tried spreading the posts apart but it didn't seem to work.  If I take them completely out, the rattle stops.  I have an appointment at the dealer over lunch today.  I can't wait to hear what they have to say.  

Posted

Just got back from the dealer.  That took almost 2 hours and I even told them where the rattle was coming from.  They were able to replicate the rattle, so that was a win.  Then they took 2 headrests from a truck on the showroom floor and put those in mine.  Apparently, the rattle disappeared.  They ordered me 2 new headrests.  So, now I wait.  

 

Just thought that I would followup in case it helps anyone else.  

 

Brian

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Took mine (2019 RST) to the dealer today. Was doing very same thing and was constant. The service manager had fixed one truck before so they told me what to do and it works. 
Lower both headrest down low as they will go. That’s it and it will go away. The posts rattle the inserts if they are up. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...