Jump to content

Safety Chains with Stock Hitch

brclark82

Recommended Posts

dplarson Enthusiast

dplarson

Posted
Posted

I posted a pic of quicklinks in post #6 above. Same or similar to what crankman posted better pics of.
Mine are 3/8 inch wide jaw from any hardware store that sells chain.

Sent from the demons in my head

brclark82 Enthusiast

brclark82

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, dplarson said:

I posted a pic of quicklinks in post #6 above. Same or similar to what crankman posted better pics of.
Mine are 3/8 inch wide jaw from any hardware store that sells chain.

Sent from the demons in my head
 

Cool, thanks for the dimensions...do you leave them on when not trailering and do they rattle around loudly when not being used?

dplarson Enthusiast

dplarson

Posted
Posted

I only leave them on if I'm hooking back up within a couple days. Normally I take them off. I have never heard them making noise, with or without chains attached.

Sent from the demons in my head

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

I opted for a pin and cotter key version to avoid threads rusting and create a situation where it could be extremely difficult to remove the clevis’ If I needed to.

ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
Posted

I'll add to the crosby crowd. Works great with any trailer. I think I spent $28 on Amazon.

brclark82 Enthusiast

brclark82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the input guys, I picked up the Rhino shackles that I posted an Amazon link to earlier in the thread and they work perfectly!  

 

I did have to put them in the rear side of the hitch though because they stuck out a little far and interfered with my locking hitch pin, but worked out great!  

 

I should have taken a pic, maybe later tonight but the quality for the price of the Rhino shackles was awesome, at least out of the box.  Super thick coating it seems like so hopefully no rust issues for a while. 

Jason Plank Enthusiast

Jason Plank

Posted
Posted
On 8/8/2019 at 10:14 AM, DaBomb6988 said:

 

 


X2. I did the same thing. I keep an extra set in the toolbox in case I borrow a different trailer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

X3.  I did the same thing.  Relatively inexpensive way to solve the problem.

Dans Denali Enthusiast

Dans Denali

Posted
Posted

Ok My new truck has the new hitch and I'm wondering who the genius is that designed it, he obviously doesn't own a trailer. None of my 3 trailers work without adaptors. 

 

Dan

  • 3 weeks later...
xps800doo Enthusiast

xps800doo

Posted
Posted
On 8/21/2019 at 11:09 PM, Dans Denali said:

Ok My new truck has the new hitch and I'm wondering who the genius is that designed it, he obviously doesn't own a trailer. None of my 3 trailers work without adaptors. 

 

Dan

SO YOUR 19 HAS THE SAME HITCH AS THE 2020'S RUMOR HAS IT THE 2020'S ARE FIXED...?

dozerboy Enthusiast

dozerboy

Posted
Posted
I used 1/2 clevis.  Lot stronger than quick links.



The bad thing about this is the clevis is so big if your chains pull hard it will bend your hitch pin and you will have to cut it off. Especially if you have the factory hitch pin that keyed to your truck, because it’s pretty bulky. Of course if you double check your hitch and don’t trust the idiot hooking it up for you... you probably won’t have an issue.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bwiese
      seat base height *lowering* (base 40/20/40 seat, 2026 1500 WT std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • bwiese
      on-wheel cellphone control: 2026 1500 WT (2.7L 4WD std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • sFrank
      2026 Silverado Range AFM DFM ECU loaction

      By sFrank · Posted

      So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • No F-bdy Bs
      Dave's Auto (custom engine builder) tear down of L8T

      By No F-bdy Bs · Posted

      Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...