Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok all installed. Took me maybe an hour. It’s all about the “J Hooks”...that plastic cap on top of the sides of the bed hides some pre drilled holes in the composite underneath. I used a pry bar to pry the plastic up and slide the j hooks into the square holes. That’s the hardest part really...after that just screw in some screws and put the cover on. There’s a couple clamps (you can see one in the pictures) that hold the whole thing in place that mounts into a pre drilled hole in the rail. There’s a nice lock on the cover right up against the cab and the other end opens with a twist handle (you can see it in the pictures). The tailgate opens freely and overall I think its a great tonneau cover...it’s made of a Super heavy duty material and it’s a nice low profile tonneau. Good job GM!

A10A223A-44D2-4826-96EE-ECA00D1CBCCC.jpeg

DCD2C1DD-9DAD-41C6-9DD2-05779201115B.jpeg

D1F98657-7A5A-4F09-9E7B-365385120DEF.jpeg

C99E49CA-E39F-484C-A96F-6F66EEB18950.jpeg

C3509762-4715-4C89-93D9-6D4D0F7BB3EB.jpeg

C7082FE6-2F0F-40F7-98BE-D89016105EEF.jpeg

79239C7D-BDF3-4DBD-8BCF-A319001E2EE9.jpeg

05781CD2-2AB2-475B-A1C0-C14209DA2290.jpeg

B68206F9-270E-4BBD-87D4-93B00CB605DD.jpeg

2DB77EEB-23B4-467F-95A5-E46880875C47.jpeg

1D3F9D2A-A658-4589-B90B-536D29207208.jpeg

7071D55E-2854-47E2-BF57-D11956397840.jpeg

F6A45711-B66B-47E1-97B3-F3A53D3054E3.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

No...when you get eye level just lift up and you will see the square hole (it’s offset...not straight). Next to every square hole is a slightly smaller circle hole ( it sits up a bit higher so pull that plastic cap up more to see it). You slide the J hook into the square cutout and snap/slide it in, by doing this the nut portion of the Jhook/nut will sit behind that smaller circle hole...and that’s where the screw goes through. Once you see how it works it’s easy to do...just took me a few minutes to figure it out.

Posted

No it doesn’t...it folds back upon itself twice. That third fold doesn’t move. So essentially if you need the entire bed for something large...you’d have to pull the cover off. I’ve been using an extang solid fold for the past ten years and it works the same way so I’m used to it. But if you always have large things in the back of the truck then this might be more of a hassle...but again...for the couple times a year I need my full bed...I’ll just pull it off. 

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the pictures and the part number. I will be calling the dealer tomorrow morning. I was just at the dealer talking to the parts guy yesterday while my truck was getting the update taking care of. ( seatbelt flap on passenger side ). I've spent hours talking and discussing covers with them and on line tonneau cover companies. They all would say yes we have a cover for your 2019 truck but not the CarbonPro. UGH! I've had my truck since Sept 27th. Love the 6.2, I traded in my 2017 GMC 5.3. What a difference. Love it! 

While at the dealer yesterday I walked the lot. They have 2 AT4 Spider additions there. Nice. But not worth the 80,000 price tag. One was a 5.3 silver and the other one was blue 6.2 and both listed at 80,000, doesn't make sense same price with different engines. I couldn't read all the fine print, it was sunny out and I didn't have my glasses... lol 

Edited by Mike Cameron
Posted (edited)

I just brought a 2020 gmc at4 with the carbonpro bed and that's the first thing I wanted to buy, a bed cover!!!. Has anyone figured out what to do?

Edited by Alex3305
Posted

Thanks for finding the tri-fold cover and posting the pictures. Where did you order it from?  Should I just call the dealer or is there a cheaper place to buy it?  I have a 19 at4 carbon fiber bed. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just bought a 2020 Sierra Denali with the carbonPro liner. Wasn’t aware with the fit issue. I want to order a Retrax Pro XR. Thankfully customer service told me it wouldn’t fit. Looking forward to a solution. Thanks 

Posted

Any idea how this compares to the bakflip MX4? I'm debating between a carbon pro or standard bed...
Thx.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

How easily is it removed once installed?  Presumably, you can leave the rails and J-hooks installed and have access to the full bed (e.g., for loading dirt bikes in the back?

 

Any idea who manufactures this for GM?

 

Thx

Posted
On 11/15/2019 at 5:52 PM, Shawn Garneau said:

Ok all installed. Took me maybe an hour. It’s all about the “J Hooks”...that plastic cap on top of the sides of the bed hides some pre drilled holes in the composite underneath. I used a pry bar to pry the plastic up and slide the j hooks into the square holes. That’s the hardest part really...after that just screw in some screws and put the cover on. There’s a couple clamps (you can see one in the pictures) that hold the whole thing in place that mounts into a pre drilled hole in the rail. There’s a nice lock on the cover right up against the cab and the other end opens with a twist handle (you can see it in the pictures). The tailgate opens freely and overall I think its a great tonneau cover...it’s made of a Super heavy duty material and it’s a nice low profile tonneau. Good job GM!

A10A223A-44D2-4826-96EE-ECA00D1CBCCC.jpeg

DCD2C1DD-9DAD-41C6-9DD2-05779201115B.jpeg

D1F98657-7A5A-4F09-9E7B-365385120DEF.jpeg

C99E49CA-E39F-484C-A96F-6F66EEB18950.jpeg

C3509762-4715-4C89-93D9-6D4D0F7BB3EB.jpeg

C7082FE6-2F0F-40F7-98BE-D89016105EEF.jpeg

79239C7D-BDF3-4DBD-8BCF-A319001E2EE9.jpeg

05781CD2-2AB2-475B-A1C0-C14209DA2290.jpeg

B68206F9-270E-4BBD-87D4-93B00CB605DD.jpeg

2DB77EEB-23B4-467F-95A5-E46880875C47.jpeg

1D3F9D2A-A658-4589-B90B-536D29207208.jpeg

7071D55E-2854-47E2-BF57-D11956397840.jpeg

F6A45711-B66B-47E1-97B3-F3A53D3054E3.jpeg

Shawn, thanks for posting the pictures. Do you have a copy of the installation instructions that you could share? If this cover can fit with J-hooks, surely there is some way to modify a Retrax (or similar) to fit these trucks. Love my new truck, but this is frustrating! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 495 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...