Jump to content

Anyone know part number for trailer camera that plugs into ports on rear bumper?

Sunshine39
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gecko50 Enthusiast

Gecko50

Posted
Posted

2 more observations, it appears that there is a hex type of crimp made, which is common for coax. I also see it appears the ferrule appears to be threaded as it has a grip type exterior to assist in tightening without slipping on the connector. But why is the inside of the boot a small round metal, what was the mating part, was that lost on the cable destruction? 

 

Chuck 

  • Replies 144
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

tgodrich
tgodrich

OK, so I have a 2020 Chevy 3500HD.  I do not like having to string a cable from the rear of my 34' trailer to use the camera option.  From my understanding, the cable has a DC bias for the camera with

sdelam
sdelam
keithaz22
keithaz22

Fakra z connectors 

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

It looks like that is coaxial cable, not triaxial.

They could send power and signal on the same cable. Just like they do with Direct TV satellite dishes. It makes aftermarket cameras more difficult...

If you know any Ham Radio operators one of them could probably crimp or solder a different connector (maybe a SMA)?

You would need to do this on both the truck end and camera end.

Search for RG58 SMA connector on You Tube there is a video that shows how to install a crimp on connector if you have the Hex crimper.

If you were in Phoenix I could install the connectors in a few minutes, there is bound to be someone that could do it in your area.

When I have time I will see how much extra coax there is under the truck. If there’s a little slack it would be easy to cut the coax and put connectors on both ends. I could add a set of camera jacks in the bed for a fifth wheel or gooseneck.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

hogcard Enthusiast

hogcard

Posted
Posted

I currently have a furrion wireless camera on the back of my fifth wheel with extra monitor.  Would love to be able to use the gmc screen so I wouldn't have to have an extra screen sitting there.  However the GMC camera is a "wired" camera.  How do you run the wiring from the back of your camping trailer to the plug without it looking cheesy? 

hptulsa Enthusiast

hptulsa

Posted
Posted

i found a 'hole' at the front of my horse trailer where the manufacturer had run the wires for the brakes/lights.  There is a track all the way to the back of the trailer so i used it for my camera cable also...at the front, it drops directly down around the gooseneck hitch, so i cable clamped it backwards to just over the trucks connection.  CAUTION! i did not allow for a sharp turn of the gooseneck and the first time i did that the camera cables ripped out of the truck connection and i will have to get new connectors which have been difficult to find!! 

 

Could you also cable clamp the wiring underneath your trailer to the rear? i used self tapping metal screws and it was fairly easy...

hptulsa Enthusiast

hptulsa

Posted
Posted

I agree it looks like 'mini' coax and seems to have the same type of termination, but when i was researching the type of camera/connectors, i found a site that said the cameras were using triaxial.. i will look back to see if i can find that again.  

kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

I looked under my truck today.

The camera cable is RG-58, 50 ohm coax.

0439423b5b04dc8ea8149c593096f251.jpg

If I had damage to the connector I would just replace it with a compression F connector. Direct TV uses these outdoors in all US climate zones.

Put in a splitter and you can have jacks for your 5th wheel and on your bumper. I would cut off the camera plug and replace wi a F connector as well.

0b4195921ae6ed514f524b612c0efb26.jpga9eb68568b20b55a3edf477e8794465e.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  • 2 weeks later...
Strick 8187 Enthusiast

Strick 8187

Posted
Posted

Not sure if this has been said but dealer ran my vin and this P/N 84876818 is what came up replaces 84580657. 

yousaveone Enthusiast

yousaveone

Posted
Posted
On 1/15/2020 at 8:19 PM, kf9yr said:

I looked under my truck today.

The camera cable is RG-58, 50 ohm coax.

0439423b5b04dc8ea8149c593096f251.jpg

If I had damage to the connector I would just replace it with a compression F connector. Direct TV uses these outdoors in all US climate zones.

Put in a splitter and you can have jacks for your 5th wheel and on your bumper. I would cut off the camera plug and replace wi a F connector as well.

0b4195921ae6ed514f524b612c0efb26.jpga9eb68568b20b55a3edf477e8794465e.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

WRONG. RG-58 is a standard in radio and GPS. we commonly use it in aircraft. Directv does NOT use this. They use RG-6 and sometimes RG-59 if the installer is lazy. In addition you cannot use a splitter in this application. If you listen to this guy your camera will be damaged at the least.

kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

I didn’t say Direct TV uses RG59 or RG58. I said they use F-connectors...

 

They use RG6 because it is lower loss at the microwave frequencies they are using than RG59.

 

RG58 is 50 ohm RG59 is 75 ohm. At the signal levels used here they would be interchangeable but I didn’t suggest that.

 

Putting a splitter won’t damage your camera. Even if you were so incompetent that you inverted the signal and ground it wouldn’t hurt the camera. The voltage that powers the camera is supplied by the truck. I would put a 50 ohm terminating cap resistor on the unused terminal.

 

It wouldn’t be a good idea to ground the unused terminal.

 

I will order a camera.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bwiese
      seat base height *lowering* (base 40/20/40 seat, 2026 1500 WT std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • bwiese
      on-wheel cellphone control: 2026 1500 WT (2.7L 4WD std cab)

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • sFrank
      2026 Silverado Range AFM DFM ECU loaction

      By sFrank · Posted

      So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • No F-bdy Bs
      Dave's Auto (custom engine builder) tear down of L8T

      By No F-bdy Bs · Posted

      Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...