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I noticed multiple threads, including ones I made up complaining about the audio quality of the new trucks whether it with or without the Bose

 More specifically, the rear speakers. I'm here to tell you that there is hope. I decided to replace the speakers in the rear of my crew cab in hopes that I would get more sound. It worked!! Not to the point where the inside is rattling, but enough that I don't have to turn the volume up so high. However, when I replaced the rear speakers, because the clarity was much better, I was able to notice that the fronts were distorted, so I ended up replacing those as well. Now I'm noticing that I have to turn the bass down. So if you're looking for a solution, start here.

 

I replaced all door speakers with Pioneer A-series speaker. 6x9 5-way up front and 6.5" 3-way in the rear. What's nice about the Pioneer, is that they come with a plastic bracket to hold the speaker, that fits in the door in the same position. You just have to break off the tabs that aren't needed. Rather than splicing the wires I order Metra wire harness, part number 72-4572. It plugs directly into the factory harness and you attached the other end to the speakers. Everything I bought off Amazon and spent about $125.  If this is something you're looking to do, I can't Express enough the importance of sealing the speakers. 

 

Even though the brackets are a direct fit, it does leave air gaps. I used silicone to fill in the gaps. If you've ever worked with silicone before, you know how much of a mess it can be. To combat this, before putting the speaker on the bracket, apply the silicone to the edges of the bracket where it meets the door, and then spray the silicone bead with all-purpose cleaner. Then run your finger around the silicone to create a good seal and wipe the excess on a piece of paper towel. It makes the job a lot less messy and it won't stick all over everything. I also put silicone around the edges of the speaker, where it touches the bracket, just for added assurance. This is optional. The end result is still the same. Better quality, better sounding, and more volume with less power. I hope this helps with those who are suffering the same issue I was.

Edited by Itsjustme
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No deadening. I didn't feel there was a need to. I was just more concerned about making sure it all had a good seal. The skins were very simple. Take off the cover behind the door handle to uncover a screw, remove the cover on the arm rest to reveal two more screws, and on the rear door there's one more screw on the bottom, and the fronts have two screws on the bottom. The skins pop off. Once they're off, remove the lock cable from the handle, and remove the electric harness. That's all there is to removing the skins. The speaker is only held in by one screw. FYI, all the screws are 7mm

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Just a note despite what they say dynamite is not a sound deadener it is a vibration dampener and works quite well and will make a truck much quieter. To deaden sound you need it and sheets of mass loaded vinyl, I had a car professionally sound deadened and it made a nice system sound like a fantastic system. It is indeed a pain to install I helped.

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On 8/16/2019 at 10:26 AM, Itsjustme said:

I noticed multiple threads, including ones I made up complaining about the audio quality of the new trucks whether it with or without the Bose

 More specifically, the rear speakers. I'm here to tell you that there is hope. I decided to replace the speakers in the rear of my crew cab in hopes that I would get more sound. It worked!! Not to the point where the inside is rattling, but enough that I don't have to turn the volume up so high. However, when I replaced the rear speakers, because the clarity was much better, I was able to notice that the fronts were distorted, so I ended up replacing those as well. Now I'm noticing that I have to turn the bass down. So if you're looking for a solution, start here.

 

I replaced all door speakers with Pioneer A-series speaker. 6x9 5-way up front and 6.5" 3-way in the rear. What's nice about the Pioneer, is that they come with a plastic bracket to hold the speaker, that fits in the door in the same position. You just have to break off the tabs that aren't needed. Rather than splicing the wires I order Metra wire harness, part number 72-4572. It plugs directly into the factory harness and you attached the other end to the speakers. Everything I bought off Amazon and spent about $125.  If this is something you're looking to do, I can't Express enough the importance of sealing the speakers. 

 

Even though the brackets are a direct fit, it does leave air gaps. I used silicone to fill in the gaps. If you've ever worked with silicone before, you know how much of a mess it can be. To combat this, before putting the speaker on the bracket, apply the silicone to the edges of the bracket where it meets the door, and then spray the silicone bead with all-purpose cleaner. Then run your finger around the silicone to create a good seal and wipe the excess on a piece of paper towel. It makes the job a lot less messy and it won't stick all over everything. I also put silicone around the edges of the speaker, where it touches the bracket, just for added assurance. This is optional. The end result is still the same. Better quality, better sounding, and more volume with less power. I hope this helps with those who are suffering the same issue I was.

Any chance you can post a parts list or links?  I absolutely want to do this mod. The stock sound is awful in this truck, the ‘16 no Bose I had was way better. 

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On 8/16/2019 at 8:26 AM, Itsjustme said:

I noticed multiple threads, including ones I made up complaining about the audio quality of the new trucks whether it with or without the Bose

 More specifically, the rear speakers. I'm here to tell you that there is hope. I decided to replace the speakers in the rear of my crew cab in hopes that I would get more sound. It worked!! Not to the point where the inside is rattling, but enough that I don't have to turn the volume up so high. However, when I replaced the rear speakers, because the clarity was much better, I was able to notice that the fronts were distorted, so I ended up replacing those as well. Now I'm noticing that I have to turn the bass down. So if you're looking for a solution, start here.

 

I replaced all door speakers with Pioneer A-series speaker. 6x9 5-way up front and 6.5" 3-way in the rear. What's nice about the Pioneer, is that they come with a plastic bracket to hold the speaker, that fits in the door in the same position. You just have to break off the tabs that aren't needed. Rather than splicing the wires I order Metra wire harness, part number 72-4572. It plugs directly into the factory harness and you attached the other end to the speakers. Everything I bought off Amazon and spent about $125.  If this is something you're looking to do, I can't Express enough the importance of sealing the speakers. 

 

Even though the brackets are a direct fit, it does leave air gaps. I used silicone to fill in the gaps. If you've ever worked with silicone before, you know how much of a mess it can be. To combat this, before putting the speaker on the bracket, apply the silicone to the edges of the bracket where it meets the door, and then spray the silicone bead with all-purpose cleaner. Then run your finger around the silicone to create a good seal and wipe the excess on a piece of paper towel. It makes the job a lot less messy and it won't stick all over everything. I also put silicone around the edges of the speaker, where it touches the bracket, just for added assurance. This is optional. The end result is still the same. Better quality, better sounding, and more volume with less power. I hope this helps with those who are suffering the same issue I was.

Did you also add an amp? I saw another thread that you were thinking of adding 1. 

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15 hours ago, Eds240z06 said:

Did you also add an amp? I saw another thread that you were thinking of adding 1. 

No amp. To me, just the speakers alone are satisfactory to me. I may end up adding an amp down the road, I'm just not entirely sure quite yet.

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On 8/18/2019 at 8:43 AM, Axxess said:

Any chance you can post a parts list or links?  I absolutely want to do this mod. The stock sound is awful in this truck, the ‘16 no Bose I had was way better. 

No problem. These are the parts I purchased plus the tools needed.

- Pioneer A-series 320w 6.5" speakers (rear) $50

- Pioneer TS-A6970F 5-way 600w 6x9 speaker (front) $51

- (2) Metra 72-4572 wire harness $6/each

- Clear silicone

- All-purpose cleaner (spray)

- 7mm socket or wrench. I used an impact socket that I attached to my 1/4" impact driver.

- Flat head screw driver or small pry bar

- 1/8" drill bit 

- (Optional) 6 pack of beer

- Recording sound of hard work to make your wife or significant other that you'll be working for hours when in reality, it should take no more than an hour to complete.

 

The brackets that come with the speakers do fit in the doors, but because they're a little bigger, they leave gaps. So when you apply the silicone, make sure you fill in the gaps on the bottom. I went around the entire bracket just for peace of mind. Use the drill bit to drill holes in the open holes on the bracket. The screw that come with the kit aren't self-tapping, so I drilled holes slightly smaller so the screw would catch and tighten snugly. The speakers and wire harness adapter are prices from Amazon where I bought them. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

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19 hours ago, Itsjustme said:

Doors were enough. You can get away with just replacing the rears, but if you have a trained ear, you'll notice a clarity and quality difference between the rear and front. That's why I replaced the fronts as well.

Thanks man. Doors are easy enough might as well do both. 

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48 minutes ago, PabloK said:

Nice job.. always fun to upgrade the stereo.

 

done some pretty serious builds on my other rides but for the AT4 i was able to get my hands on a limited run Focal 40th aniv system.....

 

more to come.......

 

https://www.focal.com/en/f40th

 

 

kit_f40th_box_b_0.jpg

 

Those are nice too. What's even better is that the 6.5" are 2 ohms, so you'll have an even better sounding/louder speaker.

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8 minutes ago, Itsjustme said:

Those are nice too. What's even better is that the 6.5" are 2 ohms, so you'll have an even better sounding/louder speaker.

Correct... still working out install plans,  fabricated mounts, custom pine sub box......but will get this done over the winter.

90% of the work is in prep.

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