Jump to content

New Silverado-looking

New Silverado man

Recommended Posts

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Donstar said:

..... new truck prices are not bad when compared to used.   The pleasure,  confidence and benefits derived from being the first owner is well worth the price, imo.   

I can't agree more. I don't buy used trucks . Wait for the deals then jump on it.

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
New Silverado man Enthusiast

New Silverado man

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you all for your input. Glad I was enlightened about the chrome bumpers (and grill I presume?). Sorry, I forgot to include GMC in my search. I would be happy to find one of them. I am adament about Z71 because I will occasionally pull my trailer and feel that will add to my stability

BringTheRain403 Senior Enthusiast

BringTheRain403

Posted
Posted
Thank you all for your input. Glad I was enlightened about the chrome bumpers (and grill I presume?). Sorry, I forgot to include GMC in my search. I would be happy to find one of them. I am adament about Z71 because I will occasionally pull my trailer and feel that will add to my stability
Honestly, there's not much difference. The rancho shocks are fairly shitty. IMO the only feature I'd miss is the hill decent control (I live in a pretty hilly area and it helps). My recommendation would be to not worry about Z71 and when you get it replace the shocks with Bilstein 5100's. You'll be a head of the game...

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

You don't need a Z71 to tow. What are you towing?

My non Z71's tow 5000-6500 lbs. just fine all day long.

They are rated for over 9000 lbs. 

5.3/3.42/6spd.

16LT4 Enthusiast

16LT4

Posted
Posted

You don't need Z71 to have hill decent control.  Having owned both Z71 and non-71 LT trucks, I'd take the non-71 every time due to the better ride.

 

Same chassis, same brakes, same 4x4, different shocks and decals.

BringTheRain403 Senior Enthusiast

BringTheRain403

Posted
Posted
You don't need Z71 to have hill decent control.  Having owned both Z71 and non-71 LT trucks, I'd take the non-71 every time due to the better ride.
 
Same chassis, same brakes, same 4x4, different shocks and decals.
Hill decent control only comes with the Z71 off road package.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

16LT4 Enthusiast

16LT4

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, BringTheRain403 said:

Hill decent control only comes with the Z71 off road package.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

You're right.  Too many damn safety assists... confused it with hill start assist.  Looks like I picked the wrong weekend to quit sniffing glue.

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

Trailer brakes and tow/haul work fine for me. Never went downgrade too steep where I wasn't comfortable. Like 8% - 10% grades for a couple miles I'm talking. I try to keep it around 50 mph too.   Going up that same hill coming home you really gotta pour the coal to her though. My Crew cab with the Borla S type sounds so sweet lugging 6000lbs up that 8% singing along at around 3800rpm in third gear. I could listen to that all day long.???

NE18 Enthusiast

NE18

Posted
Posted

Doesn’t the 16-18 with the non-max towing package come with the same plastic skid plates as the z71? 

NE18 Enthusiast

NE18

Posted
Posted

 

according to this thread the 2014 z71 transfer case skid is aluminum and the rest are plastic. Not sure if this carries over to the 16-18. Did they change to all metal skids for the z71 16-18? My non-z71 has the front plastic aero bit. 

New Silverado man Enthusiast

New Silverado man

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like I really don't need Z71. I just thought the stiffer ride and more stability would aid me. I want the truck to ride stiff. The shock replacement sounds like a great Idea and opens me up to more trucks to consider. Thanks

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...