Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I always will always opt for the biggest engine that my budget will afford. My current truck the 5.3L was the biggest available in an LT trim level so that is what I got... I'm happy with the motor, the 6 speed kinda sucks though.. 

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, redwngr said:

I regretted buying a 6.2.  

Traded on a 5.3 NHT.

 

Eventually want back to a 2500 dmax, which was where I started in the first place.

 

I actually think my 6.2/10sp tows better than my previous 6.6/6sp.  

Posted
I actually think my 6.2/10sp tows better than my previous 6.6/6sp.  

You think that your new 6.2 tows better than the 6.6 diesel ?


Sent from Above
Posted
10 hours ago, TXGREEK said:


You think that your new 6.2 tows better than the 6.6 diesel ?


Sent from Above

Yep.  Traded a 16 2500 6.6 on the 19 1500 6.2.  Towed the same travel trailer with both trucks.  

Posted
Yep.  Traded a 16 2500 6.6 on the 19 1500 6.2.  Towed the same travel trailer with both trucks.  


This was my setup, 2016 loaded out DMax that my 6.2 could never EVER come close to. The 2500 DMax without a doubt destroys any 1500 for towing but travel trailers can easily be towed with a well equipped 1500 6.2 just not as well as a 2500 DMax which is much much more stable especially better on road hills maneuverability.

1792129386703011b48c928213e481ab.jpg


Sent from Above
Posted
31 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


This was my setup, 2016 loaded out DMax that my 6.2 could never EVER come close to. The 2500 DMax without a doubt destroys any 1500 for towing but travel trailers can easily be towed with a well equipped 1500 6.2 just not as well as a 2500 DMax which is much much more stable especially better on road hills maneuverability.

1792129386703011b48c928213e481ab.jpg


Sent from Above

 

My 16 HC 2500 had a whole 400 more pounds of payload capacity.  This 19 does everything the 16 did, except ride like crap.  

Posted
My 16 HC 2500 had a whole 400 more pounds of payload capacity.  This 19 does everything the 16 did, except ride like crap.  


You’re correct on ride quality, and if towing a travel trailer, you’re good but the 2500 is better at it especially a DMax.

Ok, Good Luck and be safe


Sent from Above
Posted
7 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


You’re correct on ride quality, and if towing a travel trailer, you’re good but the 2500 is better at it especially a DMax.

Ok, Good Luck and be safe


Sent from Above

 

I'll be sure to borrow a 3500 dually when I need to tow my 18' aluminum boat.  ?

Posted
I'll be sure to borrow a 3500 dually when I need to tow my 18' aluminum boat.  [emoji23]

That’s not what I said, I’ve had them all and when it comes to towing anything heavy, there’s a big difference between a 1500 and a 2500 especially between a gasser and a diesel

 

 

Sent from Above

 

 

Posted
On 10/18/2019 at 7:10 AM, greatmizzou said:

Ive heard the 6.2 is for playing and the 5.3 is for towing.  

 

the 6.2 might have the edge in every circumstance, but it does seem likely it is not going to be as durable as the 5.3.   An example was cited comparing the 6.0 HD engine to the 6.2. Or even the 6.6 gas to the 6.2.  

 


 

 

What?????

  • Like 1
Posted
What?????


Sometimes it’s not worth even trying, lmao!


Sent from Above
Posted
39 minutes ago, Welder2014 said:

What?????

?

 

I might be mixing my articles.   I think Im confused about comparing the 6.0HD engine with the 6.2 , and the comparisons to the 6.6HD gas to the 6.2.  I googled it to re read the article and found it.


As far as the 5.3 to the 6.2 it looks like the 6.2 beats it pretty soundly, just more $$$

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Looking at purchasing a 2500, I am trying to find a Duramax, but it has been tough finding one in my area, in my price range. I have however found alot of 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec. Most the 6.O have 150, 000 - 175,000 miles. What are anyone's experiences or opinion about buying a Vortec with 150,000 pluss miles? The truck I am finding are typically 2013-2014 models. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Seth Culbertson said:

Looking at purchasing a 2500, I am trying to find a Duramax, but it has been tough finding one in my area, in my price range. I have however found alot of 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec. Most the 6.O have 150, 000 - 175,000 miles. What are anyone's experiences or opinion about buying a Vortec with 150,000 pluss miles? The truck I am finding are typically 2013-2014 models. 

You really have to test drive each one.  I drove a 2015 6.0 with 50k and it drove like a dream.   I drove a 2011 with 98k mi 6.6 diesel and it drove worse then my 2002.  Super awkward power steering response and felt like a squishy boat.

 

I imagine most 150k plus cars have pretty worn out steering and suspension components unless it was maintained top notch

Posted (edited)

Coming up on 97K?  Does it say 5.3L on engine never really looked or cared?  Heck never even knew they offered other engines? V-8 is a V-8 is it not?  Anyway, never put anything in other than 87 octane unleaded!  What size engine is least of my worries.  I am more worried about the ratio/blends of CRAP constantly going higher in concentrations on already CRAP Unleaded GAS..Oh well the catch can will catch all that crap and I will be driving the turd for 500K?

Edited by mookdoc6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,220 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...