Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have this exact same knock in my 2020 Denali 2500. I just took it to the second GM dealer today and they gave said a GM bullitin claims it is normal. First dealer claimed it was something normal in the intake, second dealer claims it goes away after 20% oil life usage so that would indicate engine to me..  (I've only got about 200 miles on it) I was pretty confident that it wasn't an engine issue, but it is not a noise Ive heard in my previous diesels so it's not the normal sound.. It's very annoying.. 

Posted

Got it back from the service department after having them put the rubber strip on the roof and determining the knocking noise.  They said it was normal.  Said it has been around for years and nothing to worry about.  We tried to argue it was a new noise for this year's model but the service writer said no, it was not.  We asked where it was coming from and he gave us a vague answer of "internally in the engine".   I guess at least they documented it which was the goal  and if something flies apart down the road, we have proof it was looked at and deemed "normal" .  He did say there was a tech bulletin out on it but I seriously believe it was an old bulletin for the ticking noise  that has been out there for years.  This is not the same thing.....

Anyone else get the same answer?

Posted

Well, this is my first diesel so i don't know any different but i have the TSB which says it is normal. I will try to get it later and attach the info.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Posted

I put 550 miles on my new 3500HD Denali yesterday.  When picking it up new at 45 miles, there was a faint thumping/clunking noise.  After putting 550 miles on it is more noticeable when standing outside the truck.  So far I don't hear it in the cabin especially with the stereo going.  I do have another issue that I will post separately that I believe it is an issue with the transmission.  

 

Here is a snippet if anyone else wants to comment:

When doing 73-75 miles per hour I hear a hollow howling type noise that seems to come from the front right of the truck.  My passenger stated he thought he felt the floor vibrating and it sounded like it was coming from the rear.

 

What I have learned is if I put the transmission in manual shift, when doing 74 and then downshift from 10th to 9th the noise goes away.  If while in 9th gear I slow down to 68, the noise comes back until I downshift into 8th.  When hearing this noise the tach is exactly at 1500RPM.  Also, at times of acceleration if I hear the noise at lower speeds and look at the tach it is at 1500RPM.  I believe for every gear, if there is a speed that is hit that puts the engine at 1500RPM, I will hear the noise.  Crazy!!

Posted
2 hours ago, bowtie2007 said:

I realized the TSB is already on here.

It is on here but for "ticking".  If that is the one they are referring to, it is incorrect.   This is a knocking noise much louder than the ticking issue.  I thought that must be the one they refer to but try and argue with them and it is a losing battle.  I say get it documented and move on as at least that way, if anything comes of it,  you will have proof you tried to point it out in the beginning.   

Posted

I got a 2020 High Country Duramax and it does the same exact thing as the video at idle. That is the reason I am on here. I had a lot of Duramax trucks including  two 2017 LP5's. I am used to the 70K 1970's tick...lol but this is like an engine knock and very annoying to say the least. I have 200 miles on mine. I guess it is normal from the other posts on here so I feel a little better. I was going to go back to my dealer and listen to another one to see if it does it but I guess I will just wait to see what GM eventually says about in a service bulletin.

Posted

Same noise on mine with 7200 miles, haven't had any issues other than the random check engine light that will come on and go away randomly after several drive cycles.  

 

They changed transmission, injection system, oil cooler, bigger fan/radiator... pretty sure Gale Banks did a comparision video and listed off most of these items.  It's a 2020 new platform and powertrain combo so there is bound to be some glitches or hiccups, best thing you can do is get the noises etc recorded at a dealer so if anything ever comes up they have it on record for warranty purposes.

Posted

Update on my 3500 with the knock. I put 500 plus miles hoping the sound  might vanish with the added miles but it didn't. Took it to my dealer for further evaluation and they told me today they were going to replace the oil pump, when the dealer first opened a case file with GM for the unknown noise they said the oil pump was a potential source. No ETA on the part coming MI will update the thread when the repairs are complete hopefully the pump is the culprit. Very happy that my dealer took this seriously and didn't try to say this was a normal sound.

Posted
Update on my 3500 with the knock. I put 500 plus miles hoping the sound  might vanish with the added miles but it didn't. Took it to my dealer for further evaluation and they told me today they were going to replace the oil pump, when the dealer first opened a case file with GM for the unknown noise they said the oil pump was a potential source. No ETA on the part coming MI will update the thread when the repairs are complete hopefully the pump is the culprit. Very happy that my dealer took this seriously and didn't try to say this was a normal sound.

That is interesting I’ve been wondering if 30 PSI is really sufficient oil pressure for this engine at normal driving speed. I suspect a diesel requires less pressure because I think the rod and crank journals are wider than gas engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I know my previous LMM  oil pressure at normal operating temps would vary with RPM around 22 psi at idle to 44 psi at 2000 RPM. The factory gauge in the instrument panel didn't mimic my edge insight that was hooked into the OBD port there was always a considerable difference the same with the engine temps. I want to get a Banks  I-dash in short order. It's nice knowing what the real figures are not to mention being able to monitor so many other parameters, and have the ability to clear codes as well.

 

Posted
On 1/23/2020 at 4:35 PM, Roadrunner45 said:

Update on my 3500 with the knock. I put 500 plus miles hoping the sound  might vanish with the added miles but it didn't. Took it to my dealer for further evaluation and they told me today they were going to replace the oil pump, when the dealer first opened a case file with GM for the unknown noise they said the oil pump was a potential source. No ETA on the part coming MI will update the thread when the repairs are complete hopefully the pump is the culprit. Very happy that my dealer took this seriously and didn't try to say this was a normal sound.

Glad to hear someone is getting a dealer to do something about it!  Let us know the outcome and if it cured the noise!  Ours is back in for it's first service and to get the fender light replaced due to moisture inside of it.  Hubby is going to bring up the oil pump as a possibility and tell them the bulletin they mentioned is for "ticking" not a knock.    Probably will not do any good but we will keep on them!  

Posted
On 1/23/2020 at 4:35 PM, Roadrunner45 said:

Update on my 3500 with the knock. I put 500 plus miles hoping the sound  might vanish with the added miles but it didn't. Took it to my dealer for further evaluation and they told me today they were going to replace the oil pump, when the dealer first opened a case file with GM for the unknown noise they said the oil pump was a potential source. No ETA on the part coming MI will update the thread when the repairs are complete hopefully the pump is the culprit. Very happy that my dealer took this seriously and didn't try to say this was a normal sound.

Any news on the oil pump fixing the knock?  Just wondering if that is the problem we are all experiencing.   

Posted

The pump came in last week. I placed the truck in the shop on Wednesday of that week . I thought it might have been complete on Monday-Tuesday this week but was informed it would now be Friday before I get it back,will update this thread after I get the truck back.  

 

Posted

To update on the disposition of the repairs.  The good news is the thumping seems to be less pronounced than before but still present. In park and drive at slow speeds it seems a tad bit less than previously. I used to hear the sound through around 4-5 gear that seems to have been corrected at least in the short drive from the dealer to my home. Going to put it to the test tomorrow and tow my 14,,500 pound 5th wheel almost 700 miles. 

I will update of any changes from my first impressions.

I was really hoping this was the fix my service department said that a few with this issue had been corrected by the pump replacement but not in this case. The tech would did the work stated the the bottom end of the engine looked great no shavings in the oil, blue-ing of the rod caps etc.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 500 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...