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295/65R20


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  • 9 months later...

I know this is an older thread but I stumbled across it when I was seeing how big of tires I could go so I’ll share my recent experience. Just purchased a 2020 2500hd Denali  The first thing I did was level it at home with the stock keys. I had a 2018 2500hd prior to this one. When I bought the 2018 new and leveled it with stock keys I was very close to hitting upper control arm stops to get it level.  Also used almost all of the adjusting bolt on the torsion keys. On the 2020 I have PLENTY of clearance until the UCA stops(3/4”) and plenty of adjusting bolt left after lifting almost 2” to level. I can honestly say on this one I see no need for aftermarket keys or UCA. I installed 295 65r20 toyo open country tires on the 2020 and have good clearance on front and rear. No rubbing when cranking front tires forward or reverse. Happy with the look and the ride feels very similar to stock. My 2018 rode terrible with the front end leveled. The new 2020 is no comparison in ride quality when leveled. Hope this helps for anyone else looking to go with larger tires 

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5 hours ago, SummitX said:

I know this is an older thread but I stumbled across it when I was seeing how big of tires I could go so I’ll share my recent experience. Just purchased a 2020 2500hd Denali  The first thing I did was level it at home with the stock keys. I had a 2018 2500hd prior to this one. When I bought the 2018 new and leveled it with stock keys I was very close to hitting upper control arm stops to get it level.  Also used almost all of the adjusting bolt on the torsion keys. On the 2020 I have PLENTY of clearance until the UCA stops(3/4”) and plenty of adjusting bolt left after lifting almost 2” to level. I can honestly say on this one I see no need for aftermarket keys or UCA. I installed 295 65r20 toyo open country tires on the 2020 and have good clearance on front and rear. No rubbing when cranking front tires forward or reverse. Happy with the look and the ride feels very similar to stock. My 2018 rode terrible with the front end leveled. The new 2020 is no comparison in ride quality when leveled. Hope this helps for anyone else looking to go with larger tires 

If I were to crank mine up 2", I'd be higher than the rear.  Not as much rake on the 20's.  295/65/20 should clear with no cranking of the bars with stock rims.

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Realize I'm a little late to this, but I've been running 296/65/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers since last November (2019).

 

I have Fuel 20x9 +20 offset wheels.  Only minor rubbing on the front of the fender liners, which were easy enough to pin back with some zip ties which aren't noticeable.

 

My suspension is stock with exception of the shocks, but they have no bearing on the height.

 

FaCvt9f.jpg

 

rJGklx4.jpg

 

ZEB2aNi.jpg

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On 9/10/2020 at 9:53 AM, cdh7917 said:

Realize I'm a little late to this, but I've been running 296/65/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers since last November (2019).

 

I have Fuel 20x9 +20 offset wheels.  Only minor rubbing on the front of the fender liners, which were easy enough to pin back with some zip ties which aren't noticeable.

 

My suspension is stock with exception of the shocks, but they have no bearing on the height.

 

FaCvt9f.jpg

 

rJGklx4.jpg

 

ZEB2aNi.jpg

When you say minor, how minor? You think if you had the stock wheels, from what I read have +44 offset, would they fit no rub?

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26 minutes ago, Londart2020 said:

When you say minor, how minor? You think if you had the stock wheels, from what I read have +44 offset, would they fit no rub?

I can’t say cause I didn’t even try, but just from looking at things as they are now, I think on stock wheels you’d likely be ok. Not sure if the extra width of the tire would make contact on the UCA, but it’s only a 20mm wider tire than stock and the 20mm is split between each side of the rim, so it’s only 10mm wider in each side. 
 

The rubbing was very minor that I initially had. Certainly nothing to get too concerned with. 
 

To fix it, I cut two 1/4” vertical slots at the very bottom of the front of the liner (just above the 90° lip at the bottom of the liner) with about 1-1.5” of space between the slits. From the back side, thread in a black zip tie towards the wheel in one slit, then thread it through the other slit back towards the front bumper. 
 

There is a round bar that is a lower bumper support and it sits just in front of the liner.  I looped the tie around it and tightened it until I was clear; it didn’t need much. 
 

It just barely pulls the liner away from the wheel and toward the front bumper, and only at the very bottom. When done with a black zip tie, it isn’t even noticeable and is hard to spot even if you’re looking for it. 
 

The liners are very durable, so I have no concern about the tie tearing through or ripping the slits longer. I’m coming up on almost a year with it done, and I’d do it again. I really didn’t want to turn my keys or mess with the suspension at all. 

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13 hours ago, cdh7917 said:

I can’t say cause I didn’t even try, but just from looking at things as they are now, I think on stock wheels you’d likely be ok. Not sure if the extra width of the tire would make contact on the UCA, but it’s only a 20mm wider tire than stock and the 20mm is split between each side of the rim, so it’s only 10mm wider in each side. 
 

The rubbing was very minor that I initially had. Certainly nothing to get too concerned with. 
 

To fix it, I cut two 1/4” vertical slots at the very bottom of the front of the liner (just above the 90° lip at the bottom of the liner) with about 1-1.5” of space between the slits. From the back side, thread in a black zip tie towards the wheel in one slit, then thread it through the other slit back towards the front bumper. 
 

 

There is a round bar that is a lower bumper support and it sits just in front of the liner.  I looped the tie around it and tightened it until I was clear; it didn’t need much. 
 

It just barely pulls the liner away from the wheel and toward the front bumper, and only at the very bottom. When done with a black zip tie, it isn’t even noticeable and is hard to spot even if you’re looking for it. 
 

The liners are very durable, so I have no concern about the tie tearing through or ripping the slits longer. I’m coming up on almost a year with it done, and I’d do it again. I really didn’t want to turn my keys or mess with the suspension at all. 

If you had to turn the keys to clear.... how much do think you would have to crank up to clear?

Edited by Doubleu
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On 11/14/2019 at 4:31 PM, CRApex said:

I got the XD’s on today.  Leaving everything stock the 295/65/20 rubbed more than I like.  Went with 285/65/20 G2’s and they barely JUST touch at full lock in reverse.  Wheels are 20x9 +18

 

6F1986AC-24DF-42E6-9459-86B5FB7E39F7.jpeg

CRApex- do you think the 295’s would fit with a leveling kit on a 20 x 9 with a positive offset?

Edited by JB23
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On 9/10/2020 at 9:53 AM, cdh7917 said:

Realize I'm a little late to this, but I've been running 296/65/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers since last November (2019).

 

I have Fuel 20x9 +20 offset wheels.  Only minor rubbing on the front of the fender liners, which were easy enough to pin back with some zip ties which aren't noticeable.

 

My suspension is stock with exception of the shocks, but they have no bearing on the height.

 

FaCvt9f.jpg

 

rJGklx4.jpg

 

ZEB2aNi.jpg

cdh7917- do you think your set-up wouldn’t rub if you had a leveling kit and new UCA’s???

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17 minutes ago, JB23 said:

CRApex- do you think the 295’s would fit with a leveling kit on a 20 x 9 with a positive offset?

You might be able to tie the liner back and make it work, I didn't try that though.  The issue I see with raising the front on the new trucks is you can't go as far before the front is higher than the rear.  I'd have them test fit with your wheels and see if the liner can be tied back.

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I wouldn’t be surprised if stock wheels and a couple turns on the keys gave you enough clearance to have no rub.

 

Like CRApex said, the problem with the new 2020+ trucks is that since there is less rake than 2019 and older, it’s easy to put the front end higher than the rear with too much adjustment.

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42 minutes ago, cdh7917 said:

I wouldn’t be surprised if stock wheels and a couple turns on the keys gave you enough clearance to have no rub.

 

Like CRApex said, the problem with the new 2020+ trucks is that since there is less rake than 2019 and older, it’s easy to put the front end higher than the rear with too much adjustment.

The good part is, is that the shop that installed my McGaughy’s kit did a great job of making the sure the front wasn’t higher than the rear (thank god)... 

 

here it is after the kit
 

 

 

A2E76BBF-B90E-41D0-87E8-3D0563229DCA.jpeg

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58 minutes ago, CRApex said:

You might be able to tie the liner back and make it work, I didn't try that though.  The issue I see with raising the front on the new trucks is you can't go as far before the front is higher than the rear.  I'd have them test fit with your wheels and see if the liner can be tied back.

 

The kit was put on already, but they did a good of of making sure it was level...

B1FB287C-1879-48EE-827B-BDDBEC272FA0.jpeg

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