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Removing Stock Rear Blocks

Danyoda

By Danyoda
in Modifications & Accessories

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Danyoda Enthusiast

Danyoda

Posted
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So I recently purchased a 2018 Sierra SLT All Terrain. I want to level the truck completely. I’ve asked around the forums and read different threads but I haven’t gotten the answer I wanted. I don’t really care for height. My end goal is to have the truck leveled, be able to tow, and be able to fit 33 inch or 34 inch tires and some 18 inch methods. 
 

My first idea was to put a 2.5 inch Motofab spacer on the front, but I was concerned about ride quality as well as messing with the control arms. 
 

Now for second idea, I want to add the Bilstein 5100’s and set them at their highest setting and then completely removing the stock rear blocks. That way the truck is leveled completely, but my concern has been what happens when you remove the rear blocks? Will I be okay? I haven’t really seen anyone remove the blocks only people adding taller ones. This is my preferred method, I’d like to hear thoughts and opinions from the community. I’m not planning on rock crawling just light to moderate off roading. And when it comes to towing I’m thinking of a small toy hauler or a 14 foot trailer with a side-by-side. Thank you and happy new year! ? 

catpartsman Enthusiast

catpartsman

Posted
Posted

By adding 5100’s set at max setting then removing the rear blocks, you will have the Cali lean. The front will be around 2” higher by doing wha you are saying you want to do. If you want it leveled, as the 5100’s at max height and that’s it. Fitting 34’s may be tough though.


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Danyoda Enthusiast

Danyoda

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1 minute ago, catpartsman said:

By adding 5100’s set at max setting then removing the rear blocks, you will have the Cali lean. The front will be around 2” higher by doing wha you are saying you want to do. If you want it leveled, as the 5100’s at max height and that’s it. Fitting 34’s may be tough though.


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What if I keep the 5100’s at stock level? 

wforrest08 Senior Enthusiast

wforrest08

Posted
Posted

if you just remove the blocks with stock struts or 5100s set on stock height you will still have a slight rake in the rear. I believe it’s about 3/4 of a inch. Another option is 2” drop shackles for the rear leaf springs and leave the blocks in. There is several companies that make them. 

 

couple threads

 

Danyoda Enthusiast

Danyoda

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2 hours ago, wforrest08 said:

if you just remove the blocks with stock struts or 5100s set on stock height you will still have a slight rake in the rear. I believe it’s about 3/4 of a inch. Another option is 2” drop shackles for the rear leaf springs and leave the blocks in. There is several companies that make them. 

 

couple threads

 

The thing is I didn’t want to buy any additional accessories besides the shocks if I didn’t have to. 

WS6FirebirdTA00 Enthusiast

WS6FirebirdTA00

Posted
Posted

If you don’t want to buy anything, you have two options (still going to cost $50-$150).

 

Get new u-bolts and pull the rear blocks. Costs $50 and about 30 minutes. It is close to level but will still handle some tongue weight before the rear squats lower than the front.

 

the other option is 2 inch leveling ket like the Rough Country one for $50. Tack on the cost of an alignment too. This will impact ride quality more from what I have read. It may also limit tire size.

 

I am going to go with 275/60/20 tires on my setup when I need tires. I figured the extra tire height will help a hair (I think 1/2” on the radius) so it doesn’t look lowered and also fill out the gaps better.

 

For the truck/4x4 look I like the leveling blocks for the front. For ease, cost and understood ride quality/fuel economy I like the rear block removal. I am short, so it lets me reach in the bed and under the hood too lol

 

I think the front cones up a tick when lowering the back too, definitely avoids the plowing the ground look.

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catpartsman Enthusiast

catpartsman

Posted
Posted
What if I keep the 5100’s at stock level? 

Then you will change nothing over what you have now. If you want to run a larger tire, put the 5100’s on at max height and leave the blocks in. That will give you a pretty close to level set up. If you want to avoid the 5100’s, get the lowering shackles for the rear or remove the blocks but don’t touch the front.


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Danyoda Enthusiast

Danyoda

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2 hours ago, catpartsman said:


Then you will change nothing over what you have now. If you want to run a larger tire, put the 5100’s on at max height and leave the blocks in. That will give you a pretty close to level set up. If you want to avoid the 5100’s, get the lowering shackles for the rear or remove the blocks but don’t touch the front.


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I didn’t mean on spending anything at all. I do want to buy new shocks to replace the Rancho’s. But, that’s what I didn’t know. Because I was watching a video on YouTube of a guy who put Fox 2.0’s all around the truck and removed the rear blocks so the truck could be leveled completely. So I thought I’d have to set the 5100’s at the highest setting and remove the rear block in order to accomplish that too. But if I can keep the rear blocks in and adjust the 5100’s then I’ll just do that. To repeat, I just thought I needed to remove the rear blocks. 

 

2 hours ago, WS6FirebirdTA00 said:

If you don’t want to buy anything, you have two options (still going to cost $50-$150).

 

Get new u-bolts and pull the rear blocks. Costs $50 and about 30 minutes. It is close to level but will still handle some tongue weight before the rear squats lower than the front.

 

the other option is 2 inch leveling ket like the Rough Country one for $50. Tack on the cost of an alignment too. This will impact ride quality more from what I have read. It may also limit tire size.

 

I am going to go with 275/60/20 tires on my setup when I need tires. I figured the extra tire height will help a hair (I think 1/2” on the radius) so it doesn’t look lowered and also fill out the gaps better.

 

For the truck/4x4 look I like the leveling blocks for the front. For ease, cost and understood ride quality/fuel economy I like the rear block removal. I am short, so it lets me reach in the bed and under the hood too lol

 

I think the front cones up a tick when lowering the back too, definitely avoids the plowing the ground look.

I didn’t mean not buy anything at all. I just didn’t want to buy the shocks and then something else after. Because no matter what I will buy the shocks to replace the Rancho’s. 
 

If the concern about towing Is that the rear will squat it’s not a huge deal as in the future I will be putting in some rear air bags. 
 

Yeah, I have a Motofab 2.5 sitting in my garage. That was what started this thread for me. I didn’t know if I should install it or go with my second idea instead. 
 

is your truck leveled/lifted now?

 

I am short myself lol, 5’7 ?. I’m looking for the best ride quality with a level look. 

WS6FirebirdTA00 Enthusiast

WS6FirebirdTA00

Posted
Posted

Same height here lol

 

The truck is fairly level (just removed the blocks), slightly higher in the rear but a good looking stance for me. I was going to put the leveling kit on, rear blocks back and then the 60 series tire. I read enough threads on ride quality and fuel economy impact concerns that I put that idea on hold for now. 
 

A coworked has a leveled ‘08 Silverado that I like the stance of better, more truck/4x4 looking, but he also has a more aggressive tire look that helps add to that.

 

If I remember when I take the truck out of the garage I will get a better side view pic.

Danyoda Enthusiast

Danyoda

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31 minutes ago, WS6FirebirdTA00 said:

Same height here lol

 

The truck is fairly level (just removed the blocks), slightly higher in the rear but a good looking stance for me. I was going to put the leveling kit on, rear blocks back and then the 60 series tire. I read enough threads on ride quality and fuel economy impact concerns that I put that idea on hold for now. 
 

A coworked has a leveled ‘08 Silverado that I like the stance of better, more truck/4x4 looking, but he also has a more aggressive tire look that helps add to that.

 

If I remember when I take the truck out of the garage I will get a better side view pic.

Some pics of yours would be great! 
 

How is his leveled? 
 

Thanks for the info! 

Racindave Enthusiast

Racindave

Posted
Posted

I removed my rear blocks and just used washers on the ubolts. No money spent. Ended up putting blocks back and doing 1.5 inch spacer one the front. Sometimes it looks level, sometimes nose down, sometimes nose high. To me it’s as close as I’m gonna get and still be able to pull a trailer some. 

  • Like 1
rbrjr1 Enthusiast

rbrjr1

Posted
Posted

I added the Daystar 2.5 level kit (uses urethane spacers and bolt extenders instead of an aluminum spacer).

no "spacer squeak" issues in my future and the stock ride is completely preserved.

WS6FirebirdTA00 Enthusiast

WS6FirebirdTA00

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here is my Sierra with blocks removed and co-workers Silverado with strut spacers (top) to level.

 

He is working on getting new wheels and tires. I will try to get a pic of that, with it clean too lol

F5BBB931-FD8B-4EF4-BC5D-A8CE92A456CF.jpeg

711C7118-9CB9-4C73-ABAD-6213B9792A18.jpeg

Edited by WS6FirebirdTA00
Update
  • Like 1
nominion Enthusiast

nominion

Posted
Posted

I did a 2" level kit to fit 33" tires and with some weight in the back (300 lbs.) or when towing, the front of my truck was higher than the rear.  I installed a BDS add-a-leaf to the rear this weekend to keep the back from sagging. 

 

2.5" level will likely always look front end high. 1.75" level would likely be perfect or buy the Bilstein 5100s.  As mentioned above, no level and remove the rear blocks would achieve the same result. You will have clearance issues if you do bigger tires though. 

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