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Disabling V4

Ty Howry

By Ty Howry
in Engines & Drivetrain

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Ty Howry Enthusiast

Ty Howry

Posted
Posted

What benefit come with disabling the v4 on a 6.2? Also how is this done?

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

The less the AFM/DoD is active the less chance the parts could fail, but in the end the parts are still in the engine and could end up being an issue.

 

Lots of people just hate the way it drives with that working, so they disable it. Fuel mileage may stay the same even with it off.

 

Search around, lots of ways you can go about it. You could buy the Range AFM disable dongle thing for the OBD2 port or you could get a custom tune to have it shut off.

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

the cheapest way is to run in M5 or M4 if you have the 6 speed. v4 has no real benefit until your on the highway cruising at 50-65 mph in 6th.. it works really well in this zone,  not worth removing for a street daily driver IMO..

if you got a 6.2 then your probably using the 8speed, so run it in M6-M7... 

Also I would try deactivating traction control as i feel it has some influence over Torque Managment.  I havent data logged my trans to proove this is correct, but man my 6 speed feels so much better in m5 and traction control off.

 

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted
On 2/10/2020 at 9:17 AM, Ty Howry said:

What benefit come with disabling the v4 on a 6.2? Also how is this done?

I believe the greatest benefit is to no longer see the little green V4 indicator light appear.   There is something inherently wrong with buying a truck with a huge V8 and finding it can cruise comfortably in 4 cylinders.  I felt this way in the first week of ownership with my new AFM equipped '09 Sierra 5.3 V8 but after 11 years and two trucks it hasn't been a problem.  I feel as if I'm saving a little money when this green icon appears and I'll have all cylinders firing the second I hit the gas. 

xSHIFTxNASTYx Enthusiast

xSHIFTxNASTYx

Posted
Posted

I do it for peace of mind that I'm potentially saving myself from lifter failure in the future. I'm planning on my truck being a 10 year truck so whatever I can do to try and prolong it's life is peace of mind to me. Granted, lifter failure could potentially still happen but if I'm reducing that potential, it's good for me.

 

I'm using a Range device and will eventually just tune it out when I pick up a tuner later this year.

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

I turned mine off the first week I have a HyperTech2000 for sale. I don’t need it anymore since my truck is tuned from adding a supercharger. It’s unmarried to the truck.


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42Grand Enthusiast

42Grand

Posted
Posted
I turned mine off the first week I have a HyperTech2000 for sale. I don’t need it anymore since my truck is tuned from adding a supercharger. It’s unmarried to the truck.


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How much do those usually run? What is your price?I had an i2 Diablo tuner in my 2010 and it worked well. The newest version is the i3 but I don’t know anything about it. I’ll dig into the actual differences when I’m ready to buy but for now it doesn’t hurt to ask. [emoji1360]
flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

I do it for peace of mind that I'm potentially saving myself from lifter failure in the future. I'm planning on my truck being a 10 year truck so whatever I can do to try and prolong it's life is peace of mind to me. Granted, lifter failure could potentially still happen but if I'm reducing that potential, it's good for me.

 

I'm using a Range device and will eventually just tune it out when I pick up a tuner later this year.

if running in v4 mode DONT stomp the throttle to pass someone, because the time it takes to pump the DOD lifter may not be suffient to pump up the lifters with oil pressure when you transition from v4 to v8  by revving the motor out for a pass manuever, this might be one reasonon for lifter failure. i suggest keeping it turned off until you need v4 mode on the highway. city driving should be in M4-M5  

Bobstoy 53 Enthusiast

Bobstoy 53

Posted
Posted

According to a GM service bulletin i have, the switch between V8 and V4 is accomplished in 250 milliseconds. So i think you will be OK

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted


How much do those usually run? What is your price?I had an i2 Diablo tuner in my 2010 and it worked well. The newest version is the i3 but I don’t know anything about it. I’ll dig into the actual differences when I’m ready to buy but for now it doesn’t hurt to ask. [emoji1360]

They are 350 new I will do 150 if you want.


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MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted
On 2/17/2020 at 10:25 PM, flyingfool said:

the cheapest way is to run in M5 or M4 if you have the 6 speed. v4 has no real benefit until your on the highway cruising at 50-65 mph in 6th.. it works really well in this zone,  not worth removing for a street daily driver IMO..

if you got a 6.2 then your probably using the 8speed, so run it in M6-M7... 

Also I would try deactivating traction control as i feel it has some influence over Torque Managment.  I havent data logged my trans to proove this is correct, but man my 6 speed feels so much better in m5 and traction control off.

 

Maybe manual mode on the transmission shifter will prevent AFM from kicking in on an 8-speed.  But I've seen AFM kick in (indicated on the DIC) on our 6-speed many times when I was coasting or light-throttle in M6 and even M5 gear--never in M4, though.  

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Bobstoy 53 said:

According to a GM service bulletin i have, the switch between V8 and V4 is accomplished in 250 milliseconds. So i think you will be OK

sounds good for theory on the switch..., but thats not the time it takes to fully pump up and lock the lifters for v8 mode

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