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2018 Silverado 5.3 Liter Oil Capacity

Mike Mag

By Mike Mag
in Engines & Drivetrain

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Zane
Message added by Zane,

Hey everyone, we noticed this question comes up a lot, so we finally put together one master cheat sheet. It covers the exact oil capacity, filter numbers, and drain plug torques for every GM truck and SUV from 2016 through 2026. Bookmark the full guide here so you never have to guess again: https://www.gm-trucks.com/gm-engine-oil-capacity-guide/

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Bob2C Enthusiast

Bob2C

Posted
Posted

I just run the OEM filters for piece of mind while it’s under warranty. Haven’t heard anyone have issues with denial of warranty due to aftermarket filter, but I don’t like to give them an inch to deny me. 99.9% nothing will happen to the majority of truck owners. But yes the OEM ones are cheap crap. I don’t dispute that. I do 3k miles changes anyway. Just my .02.


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dieselfan1
dieselfan1

8 quarts already . No need to explain.  Welcome to the site Mikey.?      I'll say it before someone else does. 8 of these.....

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

To error is human. To really screw things up you need a manual.   

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

Absolute: Filter Rating meaning 99.9% of the particles larger than a specified micron rating will be trapped on or within the filter. (Good luck getting that number and it is way larger than you think

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is 3,400 miles of Peppers winter driving with Red Line 0W20 and a K&P SS mesh filter filter with a beta of 35/1000. Yea, 99.9% efficiency. Mobil 1 claims 99.9% efficiency at 30 micron but wait for it...….

 

Wiped the stick on a white paper towel. Flows 7X more than paper clean and 2X more when it's 80% plugged vs a clean paper element. Bust strength a certified 1,000 psi. If the oil will flow it will be filtered and NEVER go on bypass and yes it has a bypass. Will flow 1.9 gpm per square inch with 1 psi delta. 

 

IMG_0221.JPG.c34bb1a1849d484510be998013c45d5c.JPG

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
 

It’s the professional series that’s junk, the Gold series is a much better filter. Ultra sonically welded BS! It’s cardboard lol. The Gold series is a better built filter but still died to have reinforced wired backing like you’ll find in the aftermarket manufacturers. To each their own but holding a freshly cut and unused filter and thinking it’s a robust filter in anyway is nuts, it’s garbage. Thanks for posting


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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Just curious. Any thoughts?

97cf4e97174f92e3960dc4c1497a6402.plist


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Interesting, not one for reusable filters


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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Bob2C said:

Just curious. Any thoughts?

Looked at those and a few others. What I didn't like was the way the filter makes up. Takes a special tool and almost always separates when removed. Thread unwinds. Sort of a pin wrench thing. 

 

The K & P is a tabbed lock. It can't come apart and yet is easy to disassemble for cleaning. 

 

There are a few others who are flat K & P knock offs. 

 

 

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

the real true oil filter inspection test is after you have used it for 5000 miles,  you will quickly see the quality of the media from all those heat cycles and pressure changes.. the cheap filters only last 2-3000 miles then when you open those up the filter media will break or crumple in your hands if you run them up to 5000 or more miles...

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Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

·        Lifetime (steel mesh) oil filters are not cost effective and there is no data that shows effectiveness.  Instead of throwing away a disposable oil filter you now have to dispose of cleaning solvent that also can be hazardous to use or dispose of.  Also, if the oil gets changed somewhere is it likely will get throw away. 

 

Just another gimmick.

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, elcamino said:

·        Lifetime (steel mesh) oil filters are not cost effective and there is no data that shows effectiveness.  Instead of throwing away a disposable oil filter you now have to dispose of cleaning solvent that also can be hazardous to use or dispose of.  Also, if the oil gets changed somewhere is it likely will get throw away. 

 

 

Just another gimmick.

Interesting Opinion

 

AMSOIL filter v K&P cost wise is break even at 10 oil changes. For me that was 50K miles. If you use WIX or equivalent then it may take 100K miles to break even. You could stretch that to 200K or 400K if you use $3 dollar filters and change oil once a year. Anything is possible. But as the term 'effective" was used then yea, they are cost effective. Filtration effective. 

 

Testing: https://kandpengineering.com/technical-information/testing/ 

Need more? https://www.challengeraviation.com/OilFilterengineappguide.pdf

FAA isn't allowing untested, ineffective and defective parts in aircraft.

This product got it's start in Pro Stock Drag Bikes.  

 

 

Waste disposal is zero filters and a spritz of brake cleaner. Could use MAF or carb cleaner or if your really about the safety you can use hot soap and water and a soft toothbrush after blowing it inside out with a bit of compressed air and letting is dry for a few days.  What waste? ZERO waste. I have two elements to rotate. 

 

My mechanic isn't that stupid. If yours is, find a new mechanic. If you ARE that mechanic....:rollin:

 

Who it doesn't make sense for are people that trade every three to five  years. The Jiffy Lube crowd.

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

Interesting Opinion

 

AMSOIL filter v K&P cost wise is break even at 10 oil changes. For me that was 50K miles. If you use WIX or equivalent then it may take 100K miles to break even. You could stretch that to 200K or 400K if you use $3 dollar filters and change oil once a year. Anything is possible. But as the term 'effective" was used then yea, they are cost effective. Filtration effective. 

 

Testing: https://kandpengineering.com/technical-information/testing/ 

Need more? https://www.challengeraviation.com/OilFilterengineappguide.pdf

FAA isn't allowing untested, ineffective and defective parts in aircraft.

This product got it's start in Pro Stock Drag Bikes.  

 

 

Waste disposal is zero filters and a spritz of brake cleaner. Could use MAF or carb cleaner or if your really about the safety you can use hot soap and water and a soft toothbrush after blowing it inside out with a bit of compressed air and letting is dry for a few days.  What waste? ZERO waste. I have two elements to rotate. 

 

My mechanic isn't that stupid. If yours is, find a new mechanic. If you ARE that mechanic....default_rollin.gif

 

Who it doesn't make sense for are people that trade every three to five  years. The Jiffy Lube crowd.

 

Hey! I traded ever two years but really enjoying my current truck and I assure that I DO NOT use jiffy lube lol. Everyone’s got a system, I enjoy getting to tinker with my truck, changing the oil myself helps me see what’s going on with my engine, IMO switching out oil filters should be just as simple without cleaning to reuse but hey, to each their own [emoji6]

 

The chrome filters do look sweet though but unfortunately, no one but me will know it’s there unless I install a chrome bypass filter under the fender well. Nah, that’s something a show truck would look good with.

 

 

Sent from Above

 

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

for the cost of a K&P filter I might as well buy a Frantz oil refiner,  run in by-pass mode, the filters only cost $2-5 each and filter to 1/10 of a micron, will full lab data to back that up. 

then just leave an ACdelco Gold spin on installed for the large contaminants  , now I'm getting anal about my oil quality...

Edited by flyingfool
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