Jump to content
Message added by Zane,

Hey everyone, we noticed this question comes up a lot, so we finally put together one master cheat sheet. It covers the exact oil capacity, filter numbers, and drain plug torques for every GM truck and SUV from 2016 through 2026. Bookmark the full guide here so you never have to guess again: https://www.gm-trucks.com/gm-engine-oil-capacity-guide/

Recommended Posts

Posted
There are better filters than OEM and they don't cost that much more.

Always buy better.

Sent from my SM-J810F using Tapatalk




Buy smart, as with any filter, check to make sure your oil pressure is in good standing.


Sent from Above
Posted
21 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

My 6.2 takes 8 quarts, I add 1/4 extra just for good measure lol.

2c060f69b6875395b856904302e6492e.jpg662fb075cda0e2c8e9f9599f7a8847b5.plist

Notice the excellent flow just at idle, woohoo Amsoil oil and filter allows much better flow than the Wix XP ever did and tons better than the oem too. .


Sent from Above

Course you add 1/4 extra...course you do!  Just when I thought I had heard and seen it all?  

Posted
Course you add 1/4 extra...course you do!  Just when I thought I had heard and seen it all?  


Lots more to see lol


Sent from Above
Posted
On 2/16/2020 at 6:55 AM, Mike Mag said:

the 8th digit from the left is C.  (From the right is J)  In response to the earlier replies, the engine is definitely the 5.3 V8

 

 

 

Just to get back to the OPs question, 

 

After you put 6 quarts in, are you starting it, letting it cycle(filling oil filter) then checking it again? 

Posted
On 2/16/2020 at 6:55 AM, Mike Mag said:

the 8th digit from the left is C.  (From the right is J)  In response to the earlier replies, the engine is definitely the 5.3 V8

 

 

 

VIN's read left to right, so a C would designate a 5.3, an H would be a V-6 (4.3) and a J would be a 6.2.

Posted
Just to get back to the OPs question, 
 
After you put 6 quarts in, are you starting it, letting it cycle(filling oil filter) then checking it again? 


It’s an old thread, sure OP has figured it out by now.


Sent from Above
Posted (edited)
On 2/17/2020 at 3:01 PM, TXGREEK said:

My 6.2 takes 8 quarts, I add 1/4 extra just for good measure lol.

2c060f69b6875395b856904302e6492e.jpg662fb075cda0e2c8e9f9599f7a8847b5.plist

Notice the excellent flow just at idle, woohoo Amsoil oil and filter allows much better flow than the Wix XP ever did and tons better than the oem too. .


Sent from Above

umm, not that Amsoil isn't good, but I have never seen a vehicle with an oil flow meter?  The gauge is oil pressure, which is determined by the resistance to flow.  If changing to the Amsoil oil/filter shows higher pressure on the gauge that means it is more difficult to flow (more likely higher filtration/restriction in the filter itself), though it could also be higher from the old/previous oil thinning over time.

Edited by kojimep
Posted
On ‎2‎/‎17‎/‎2020 at 10:35 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Absolute: Filter Rating meaning 99.9% of the particles larger than a specified micron rating will be trapped on or within the filter. (Good luck getting that number and it is way larger than you think, like 35 to 45 micron) 

 

Nominal: Filter Rating indicating the approximate size particle, the majority of which will not pass through the filter.

 

A WIX 10255 (NAPA 100255) has a nominal rating of 21 Micron.

Traps 20 micron at a 95.0% efficiency which means 5% of all particles are larger than 20 micron. (See Absolute rating above)

Traps 6 micron at a 50% efficiency.  

 

An AC-Delco PF63E has a nominal rating of 25 Micron. 

 

4 micro is a difference of 0.00015748 inches!

Nothing wrong with the AC-Delco filter. 

 

 

 

 

Just picked up CASE of these excellent filters!

  • Thanks 1
Posted
umm, not that Amsoil isn't good, but I have never seen a vehicle with an oil flow meter?  The gauge is oil pressure, which is determined by the resistance to flow.  If changing to the Amsoil oil/filter shows higher pressure on the gauge that means it is more difficult to flow (more likely higher filtration/restriction in the filter itself), though it could also be higher from the old/previous oil thinning over time.

 

That’s a negative, it’s exactly where it needs to be, previous Oem filters were low at 25 psi and highest at 42psi which shouldn’t have that much difference in psi. I’ve always had great luck with the Amsoil oil filter. Pure 100% Synthetic Signature Series 0W20 stays consistent throughout and where the oem and Wix all kept low oil pressure and wouldn’t get to the point it needed to this Amsoil is perfect. Keeps it steady at 36psi and raises max to 42psi which is awesome. I feel it in its performance too, much more happier with the Amsoil filter.

 

Amsoil oil filter has been the only filter that stays consistent, without going from 20-35 psi difference. My engine runs much better with it.

 

 

Sent from Above

 

Posted
Just picked up CASE of these excellent filters!

 

I’ve heard that the OEM filters are made with blend material which is what’s minimally required to filter synthetic oils. Only thing I don’t like about these OEM filters is that they’re completely made out of cardboard and don’t use metal backing at all, they use plastic in place of metal. To each their own, if it works for you then that’s great!

 

 

Sent from Above

 

Posted
3 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 

I’ve heard that the OEM filters are made with blend material which is what’s minimally required to filter synthetic oils. Only thing I don’t like about these OEM filters is that they’re completely made out of cardboard and don’t use metal backing at all, they use plastic in place of metal. To each their own, if it works for you then that’s great!

 

 

Sent from Above

 

Ya heard wrong. Go over to BITOG and look up the filter guide. Have a look at the inside of the PF63. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Ya heard wrong. Go over to BITOG and look up the filter guide. Have a look at the inside of the PF63. 


Now wait a darn minute! You telling me that not everything you see on YouTube is real, just fake news??!! So the GM oil filter is not made out of cardboard with plastic backing mesh?




Sent from Above
Posted

No thanks Grumpy, I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about the cardboard like filtration tearing and coming apart. I’ll stick with my full synthetic filtration and stainless screen backing, so much more heavier duty of a build. I’d be all over the GM OEM filter if it wasn’t for the above I’ve mentioned in addition to the thinner filter housing. I did also hear they used to make a performance filter that was built with synthetic filtration and heavy duty stainless backing, just haven’t heard anything about them or if they’re even available


Sent from Above

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

No thanks Grumpy, I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about the cardboard like filtration tearing and coming apart. I’ll stick with my full synthetic filtration and stainless screen backing, so much more heavier duty of a build. I’d be all over the GM OEM filter if it wasn’t for the above I’ve mentioned in addition to the thinner filter housing. I did also hear they used to make a performance filter that was built with synthetic filtration and heavy duty stainless backing, just haven’t heard anything about them or if they’re even available


Sent from Above

The performance filter is a UPF63R.  It is what GM puts on the Corvette.  A beefed up version of the PF63E.

Edited by Black02Silverado
  • Like 1
Posted
The performance filter is a UPF63R.  It is what GM puts on the Corvette.  A beefed up version of the PF63E.


Have you ever used it on your truck?


Sent from Above
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,911
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jaszr2
    Newest Member
    jaszr2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 512 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...