Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Does anybody have experience with the Eibach ride-height adjustable front leveling shocks for our trucks? I had been waiting on Bilstein 5100's, but these caught my eye...

 

https://eibach.com/us/i-12054-pro-truck-sport-shock-ride-height-adjustable-single-front.html

 

Appear to be the same concept as the Bilsteins I had on my 2011 GMC.

 

Note: I found a few threads in the 2014-2018 forum, and I found where some 2019-20 T1 owners have used Eibachs, but I haven't found where any T1 owners have used the Eibach ride-height adjustables...

 

Thanks. 

Edited by UGAreb
Posted

Interested as well. From what I gather you can only use their struts with their springs but can you use your springs with their struts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

yes, can be done both ways, though youll gain bit more height with their spring

  • Like 2
Posted

Yes, per the Eibach instructions, you can use the struts alone, or you can combine them with Eibach springs. Either way works. 

Posted

First time poster here, been lurking for awhile.  I bought a 2019 LT Z71 a few months ago and absolutely hated the pogo stick bouncy ride whenever I'd hit consecutive large bumps at highway speed.  I bit the bullet and installed the Eibach RHA shocks a few weeks ago.  I set the adjusting clip on the third step from the bottom, which according to their documentation is supposed to give 1.2 to 1.7 inch lift.  Mine netted out at the high end of that scale, resulting in my measurements on the fenderwells being exactly even.  As far as the ride goes, it definitely stiffened it up.  It took care of that bouncy ride motion but now I feel smaller irregularities more than before.  It's not at all objectionable to me but it is a change.  The stock shocks were extremely plush and the truck floated like a 70s large luxury car, which was nice some of the time but downright dangerous whenever encountering those large consecutive bumps.  Where before a large bump would have the suspension moving up and down three times before settling, it now only moves once.  Much more controllable and safer feeling.  

  • Like 4
Posted
6 hours ago, Gary Lamborn said:

First time poster here, been lurking for awhile.  I bought a 2019 LT Z71 a few months ago and absolutely hated the pogo stick bouncy ride whenever I'd hit consecutive large bumps at highway speed.  I bit the bullet and installed the Eibach RHA shocks a few weeks ago.  I set the adjusting clip on the third step from the bottom, which according to their documentation is supposed to give 1.2 to 1.7 inch lift.  Mine netted out at the high end of that scale, resulting in my measurements on the fenderwells being exactly even.  As far as the ride goes, it definitely stiffened it up.  It took care of that bouncy ride motion but now I feel smaller irregularities more than before.  It's not at all objectionable to me but it is a change.  The stock shocks were extremely plush and the truck floated like a 70s large luxury car, which was nice some of the time but downright dangerous whenever encountering those large consecutive bumps.  Where before a large bump would have the suspension moving up and down three times before settling, it now only moves once.  Much more controllable and safer feeling.  

Thanks for posting, Gary! That’s exactly the info I was looking for. I was wondering, if I bought them, which adjustment step would be best to set the clip at. My Sierra X31 crew cab is exactly 2” lower in front than In back. I was conflicted between the third and fourth settings. If you have a Z71 crew cab, I assume your suspension is identical to mine. The third notch sounds like the ticket to avoid a front end-high situation. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, mine was actually 1.75" higher in the rear, and as I said it now sits exactly level.  It's interesting because my son thinks it's just a little bit nose-high but measurements show it to be even.  Optical illusion I guess, but I am thinking about putting a one inch block on the rear just to restore a slight bit of rake.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/18/2020 at 8:59 PM, Gary Lamborn said:

First time poster here, been lurking for awhile.  I bought a 2019 LT Z71 a few months ago and absolutely hated the pogo stick bouncy ride whenever I'd hit consecutive large bumps at highway speed.  I bit the bullet and installed the Eibach RHA shocks a few weeks ago.  I set the adjusting clip on the third step from the bottom, which according to their documentation is supposed to give 1.2 to 1.7 inch lift.  Mine netted out at the high end of that scale, resulting in my measurements on the fenderwells being exactly even.  As far as the ride goes, it definitely stiffened it up.  It took care of that bouncy ride motion but now I feel smaller irregularities more than before.  It's not at all objectionable to me but it is a change.  The stock shocks were extremely plush and the truck floated like a 70s large luxury car, which was nice some of the time but downright dangerous whenever encountering those large consecutive bumps.  Where before a large bump would have the suspension moving up and down three times before settling, it now only moves once.  Much more controllable and safer feeling.  

did you use stock springs or eibachs?

Posted

I talked to them on Friday, says theyre done but there is something wrong with paperwork or something, he going to call me tomorrow after he talks to dude in charge of this kit.....crazy how long some companies are taking getting this stuff out, i guess they aren't big sellers.....if it was new Tacoma everyone would have it done ASAP....

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Looking for some help here: I have a 2019 crew LT z71. I want to level but avoid any nose up. Planning to do eibach adjustable shocks. My question is getting the level height right. When comparing to many on the threads (non trail boss or at4) my factory stance seems much different in existing rake and ride height. Currently ground to rear measures at 38 7/8 and front 37 3/4. Roughly 1 1/8” different. Same tire to fender rear 7 1/4 and front 6 1/2. I have about 20k mi so maybe some settling in. I’m concerned the adjustable setting on the shocks putting me at 1.7” could get me nose high. Of course I could add a block to the rear though trying to get it right with the front level. Were others this close on ride height and successful with a 1.5” or in this case 1.7” level? There is one lower setting on the eibach, but doesn’t seem right to do all the effort for .07”. Welcoming any helpful input here. Thank you. 

Posted (edited)

Rear blocks are almost always installed when leveling the front end.  Since rear blocks are so cheap, nearly inconsequential to overall costs, most people raise the front to their desired height then purchase the appropriate sized rear block to get the amount of rake(level) that they want.  My suggestion would be to measure the height of your front fender, add that dimension to whatever size lift/level you are installing, then compare that combined total height to the height of your rear fender to get an idea of what size block you will want in the rear.  If you raise the front 2 inches, most will put at least a 1" block in the rear to compensate.  I installed the Eibach system in my non-TB Z71(shocks and springs up front with shocks in the rear) and wound up using a 2" block in the back to make it somewhat level.  

 

You should anticipate purchasing rear blocks anytime you level/lift your truck, and use the rear blocks as the means by which you actually "level" the truck once you know how high you want the front.

Edited by Gangly
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I installed front/rear Eibach shocks with the leveling coils. Be sure to do a front-end alignment. Purchased Falkan 276/65R20's on chevy 20' rims. Works fine. Glad I did it. Cheers.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

2019 Silverado 5.3l 4x4. 265/70/17 defenders. 1.5 in rake originally and wanted to try to keep some without having to add 1inch block in back.  l went with second clip rather than third which gave me that upper .8 inch lift lift in front using the original springs. Not overly noticeable from outside but also prevents the feeling the need to add 1 inch block in back. 100k miles on original shocks and struts. ride in my case was night and day difference but might vary on everyone’s wear. also had a blown out right front strut. anyway there is no more bounce, ride feels much smoother, body roll is at a minimum. ( again had bad front right strut). 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...