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AC Delco Ultragaurd Gold


flyingfool

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Posted

ok , but how is there a difference in oil flow and pressure? just trying to figure why i should or shouldn't use and ultragold?  is there a different thread on the fitting.

 

maybe these are for the 2500 trucks with the 6.0 then 

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Posted
10 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

I found UPF63RF,  whats the "F" stand for??? will i be gettin F***ed

 

Bulk pack.  Dealers order them that way, pack of 12 filters.    

Posted
5 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

ok , but how is there a difference in oil flow and pressure? just trying to figure why i should or shouldn't use and ultragold?  is there a different thread on the fitting.

 

maybe these are for the 2500 trucks with the 6.0 then 

 

Burst pressure of the can.  Metal core instead of plastic.  I've cut open a PF-48E and UPF48R before.  The Ultraguard have a higher quality anti-drainback valve, the thread holes are part of the base plate rather than a threaded insert on the  E-core filters, etc.  The Ultraguards are higher quality filters over the E-Core.  Thats it really.  

 

There is no reason you can't use one as far as I've read into.  Think of the Ultraguard as the Wix Gold of AC Delco.  

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

PF63E

 

Hands down the UPF63R filter is head and shoulders above the PF63E in construction. So I won't attempt to argue that point. 

 

You can watch YouTube videos all day long with guys cutting filters up and still not know it as well as doing it yourself and boys that is just what I did. When you do this task and have your hands and your eyes on it you see it in ways a video can never clarify. 

 

Thing I like most about this filter is the bypass valves construction. Solid as a rock. That out of the way. 

 

End plates are indeed some form of composite fiber that is 'ultrasonically welded' to the element. This filter has been condemned by most for this very reason. Here's the thing;

 

1.)Pressure in an oil filter is from the outside in thus the pressure is clamping the end plates harder, not trying to tear them off. 

 

2.) The Bypass valve lifts at 22 psi meaning that there can never be more than that across the end plate, or element, or core EVER. 

 

Second thing that gets the E-core condemned is the core. Alas, the maximum differential pressure on this part is 22 psi as well and for the same reason. Structurally it will handle 120 psi according to GM Engineering but in no set of circumstances could it ever be subject to that much pressure difference. I stood on this element and it held my 210# in column. It's a stout material. 

 

The seam of the element is glued. Yea, not an issue and for the same reasons as above. All force in from the outside in. 

 

It gets condemned for it's can thickness but it's burst pressure is more then 3X anything a Gen 4/5 pump can put up. Ditto the threaded portion which by the way is both crimped AND spot welded.

 

The anti drain back valve and gasket at Nitrile. WIKI says about this material in automotive applications:

 

 Nitrile rubber, also known as NBR, Buna-N, and acrylonitrile butadiene rubber, is a synthetic ... NBR's ability to withstand a range of temperatures from −40 to 108 °C (−40 to 226 °F) makes it an ideal ... As a group, HNBR elastomers have excellent resistance to common automotive fluids (e.g., engine oil, coolant, fuel, etc.) ...

 

It will tolerate 250 F for short periods. This means that unless you are towing, racing and beating the crap out of your truck it will be just fine for the short period of time it will be in service. That is unless you own a LV3 whose cooler is in the hot tank and you are still running the 207 F water thermostat. Cooler approach temperature is 21 F so the pan temp is often 227 F in a stock V6. Still it's more than good for the 5K OCI it should consider it's full life. The V8 motors have the cooler in the cold tank and in day to day run quite a bit cooler. Thus, no issues. 

 

It has a Beta ratio of 21.7 at 20 micron. 100 at 25 micron. Wait! that is a bit better than the WIX 10225 or NAPA Gold 100225 both having Beta Ratios of 20 at 20 micron.  This is better filtration than the Mobil 1 M1-212A whose Beta is 100 but at 30 micron. Hum...for a daily driver not that bad. Don't kid yourself.

 

 

Okay I did find one weak spot. This ultrasonic weld is void for a pleat on both ends of the element to endcap seal where the element seal is glued. I expect some sort of fixture is used to hold things together until the weld is done being that foot print. Again, pressure is outside in thus a non-issue but an honest review has to be honest. It does not leak past the element unless the bypass is open. 

 

Okay, last note. The element in the UP63R filter efficiency is IDENTICAL to the PF63E. So what your buying with the upgrade is a gasket and ADV that will handle over 300 F with no change in properties forever. 392 F for 10,000 hours. Pretty hot sump temperature. Hot enough that if it were true the rod and mains would literally melt. Better isn't better if it isn't useable. That is the point of marketing. 

Posted
23 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

PF63E

 

Hands down the UPF63R filter is head and shoulders above the PF63E in construction. So I won't attempt to argue that point. 

 

You can watch YouTube videos all day long with guys cutting filters up and still not know it as well as doing it yourself and boys that is just what I did. When you do this task and have your hands and your eyes on it you see it in ways a video can never clarify. 

 

Thing I like most about this filter is the bypass valves construction. Solid as a rock. That out of the way. 

 

End plates are indeed some form of composite fiber that is 'ultrasonically welded' to the element. This filter has been condemned by most for this very reason. Here's the thing;

 

1.)Pressure in an oil filter is from the outside in thus the pressure is clamping the end plates harder, not trying to tear them off. 

 

2.) The Bypass valve lifts at 22 psi meaning that there can never be more than that across the end plate, or element, or core EVER. 

 

Second thing that gets the E-core condemned is the core. Alas, the maximum differential pressure on this part is 22 psi as well and for the same reason. Structurally it will handle 120 psi according to GM Engineering but in no set of circumstances could it ever be subject to that much pressure difference. I stood on this element and it held my 210# in column. It's a stout material. 

 

The seam of the element is glued. Yea, not an issue and for the same reasons as above. All force in from the outside in. 

 

It gets condemned for it's can thickness but it's burst pressure is more then 3X anything a Gen 4/5 pump can put up. Ditto the threaded portion which by the way is both crimped AND spot welded.

 

The anti drain back valve and gasket at Nitrile. WIKI says about this material in automotive applications:

 

 Nitrile rubber, also known as NBR, Buna-N, and acrylonitrile butadiene rubber, is a synthetic ... NBR's ability to withstand a range of temperatures from −40 to 108 °C (−40 to 226 °F) makes it an ideal ... As a group, HNBR elastomers have excellent resistance to common automotive fluids (e.g., engine oil, coolant, fuel, etc.) ...

 

It will tolerate 250 F for short periods. This means that unless you are towing, racing and beating the crap out of your truck it will be just fine for the short period of time it will be in service. That is unless you own a LV3 whose cooler is in the hot tank and you are still running the 207 F water thermostat. Cooler approach temperature is 21 F so the pan temp is often 227 F in a stock V6. Still it's more than good for the 5K OCI it should consider it's full life. The V8 motors have the cooler in the cold tank and in day to day run quite a bit cooler. Thus, no issues. 

 

It has a Beta ratio of 21.7 at 20 micron. 100 at 25 micron. Wait! that is a bit better than the WIX 10225 or NAPA Gold 100225 both having Beta Ratios of 20 at 20 micron.  This is better filtration than the Mobil 1 M1-212A whose Beta is 100 but at 30 micron. Hum...for a daily driver not that bad. Don't kid yourself.

 

 

Okay I did find one weak spot. This ultrasonic weld is void for a pleat on both ends of the element to endcap seal where the element seal is glued. I expect some sort of fixture is used to hold things together until the weld is done being that foot print. Again, pressure is outside in thus a non-issue but an honest review has to be honest. It does not leak past the element unless the bypass is open. 

 

Okay, last note. The element in the UP63R filter efficiency is IDENTICAL to the PF63E. So what your buying with the upgrade is a gasket and ADV that will handle over 300 F with no change in properties forever. 392 F for 10,000 hours. Pretty hot sump temperature. Hot enough that if it were true the rod and mains would literally melt. Better isn't better if it isn't useable. That is the point of marketing. 

Well said. 

Posted
18 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

PF63E

 

Hands down the UPF63R filter is head and shoulders above the PF63E in construction. So I won't attempt to argue that point. 

 

You can watch YouTube videos all day long with guys cutting filters up and still not know it as well as doing it yourself and boys that is just what I did. When you do this task and have your hands and your eyes on it you see it in ways a video can never clarify. 

 

Thing I like most about this filter is the bypass valves construction. Solid as a rock. That out of the way. 

 

End plates are indeed some form of composite fiber that is 'ultrasonically welded' to the element. This filter has been condemned by most for this very reason. Here's the thing;

 

1.)Pressure in an oil filter is from the outside in thus the pressure is clamping the end plates harder, not trying to tear them off. 

 

2.) The Bypass valve lifts at 22 psi meaning that there can never be more than that across the end plate, or element, or core EVER. 

 

Second thing that gets the E-core condemned is the core. Alas, the maximum differential pressure on this part is 22 psi as well and for the same reason. Structurally it will handle 120 psi according to GM Engineering but in no set of circumstances could it ever be subject to that much pressure difference. I stood on this element and it held my 210# in column. It's a stout material. 

 

The seam of the element is glued. Yea, not an issue and for the same reasons as above. All force in from the outside in. 

 

It gets condemned for it's can thickness but it's burst pressure is more then 3X anything a Gen 4/5 pump can put up. Ditto the threaded portion which by the way is both crimped AND spot welded.

 

The anti drain back valve and gasket at Nitrile. WIKI says about this material in automotive applications:

 

 Nitrile rubber, also known as NBR, Buna-N, and acrylonitrile butadiene rubber, is a synthetic ... NBR's ability to withstand a range of temperatures from −40 to 108 °C (−40 to 226 °F) makes it an ideal ... As a group, HNBR elastomers have excellent resistance to common automotive fluids (e.g., engine oil, coolant, fuel, etc.) ...

 

It will tolerate 250 F for short periods. This means that unless you are towing, racing and beating the crap out of your truck it will be just fine for the short period of time it will be in service. That is unless you own a LV3 whose cooler is in the hot tank and you are still running the 207 F water thermostat. Cooler approach temperature is 21 F so the pan temp is often 227 F in a stock V6. Still it's more than good for the 5K OCI it should consider it's full life. The V8 motors have the cooler in the cold tank and in day to day run quite a bit cooler. Thus, no issues. 

 

It has a Beta ratio of 21.7 at 20 micron. 100 at 25 micron. Wait! that is a bit better than the WIX 10225 or NAPA Gold 100225 both having Beta Ratios of 20 at 20 micron.  This is better filtration than the Mobil 1 M1-212A whose Beta is 100 but at 30 micron. Hum...for a daily driver not that bad. Don't kid yourself.

 

 

Okay I did find one weak spot. This ultrasonic weld is void for a pleat on both ends of the element to endcap seal where the element seal is glued. I expect some sort of fixture is used to hold things together until the weld is done being that foot print. Again, pressure is outside in thus a non-issue but an honest review has to be honest. It does not leak past the element unless the bypass is open. 

 

Okay, last note. The element in the UP63R filter efficiency is IDENTICAL to the PF63E. So what your buying with the upgrade is a gasket and ADV that will handle over 300 F with no change in properties forever. 392 F for 10,000 hours. Pretty hot sump temperature. Hot enough that if it were true the rod and mains would literally melt. Better isn't better if it isn't useable. That is the point of marketing. 

Very Nice Grumps.... I had 12pack land at my door few weeks ago!  I think the Delco FILTER IS VERY SLICK!

Posted
1 minute ago, mookdoc6 said:

Very Nice Grumps.... I had 12pack land at my door few weeks ago!  I think the Delco FILTER IS VERY SLICK!

Every product has a place. Matching the product to your goals is key, right? 

 

For a large number of people this is a good choice. It gives decent filtration and tough enough for the OEM to trust it for warranty purposes. With reasonable OCI's you will be happy with it for as long as you plan to own it, right? I mean, you not a forever sort of guy, correct? Are there better choices? Sure. Will you benefit from them? I can't answer that for anyone but myself. I'm sure you will be happy with them. :thumbs:

 

  

Posted

let us know how the PF63e looks at 5000 miles,, after you cut it open, is the filter media still intact or has it become brittle and show signs of breaking in your hands

Posted
3 hours ago, flyingfool said:

let us know how the PF63e looks at 5000 miles,, after you cut it open, is the filter media still intact or has it become brittle and show signs of breaking in your hands

Already done sir!  @ 10k absolutely fine pliable etc.  Tons of surface area and huge gaping holes on inside of Nylon Tube. Never a worry about slowing the flow down even on dirty media  as there is just too much area to pull through.  Slick, these spin on are folks!

Posted
7 hours ago, mookdoc6 said:

Already done sir!  @ 10k absolutely fine pliable etc.  Tons of surface area and huge gaping holes on inside of Nylon Tube. Never a worry about slowing the flow down even on dirty media  as there is just too much area to pull through.  Slick, these spin on are folks!

Ata Boy Mook!

Thanks.

I think people watch to many You Tube Videos. 

If people treated cars like oil filters no one would be driving because one crashed once.

Let's give it a rest, eh? 

 

Posted

Last note before I stick a pin in this. Searching E-bay they price

 

AC Delco 63 E at $4.22 

Purolator L22500 at $3.99

PL22500 for $5.00.

 

The L22500 filters 96% at 20 micron. Roughly the same as the AC-Delco (95.4 @ 20 micron) but has metal endcaps. Cheaper.

 

The PL22500 filters 99% at 20 micron. Metal end caps and a Viton ADV. That's a serious upgrade in construction and filtering for under a buck. 

Posted

Not the 63, but the 48. Construction is similar, though.  Sometimes, new and improved sucks.

 

 

img_1193_4be75f9ad1211dd656e831fe8d54039f9f22a5bb.jpg

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