Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ive seen a '20 hd with a utility trailer hooked up lights flash every 10seconds or so while the truck was off and no key fob in truck. Nothing on the truck itself, just the trailer lights. Not sure why the trailer plug power has this, or if this ever stops after a certain amount of time or something

Posted
For some reason my LED bed lights that i installed flash every 5 or so seconds when my running lights are off (they are wired to be on when the running lights are on).
I wired them with a CURT 56584 wiring harness to avoid cutting or splicing any factory wiring harness and used the running light wire and ground to power the LED bed lights.
When I switch them on with the running lights on they also flash about 7 times then they finally power on normally.  Does anyone have an idea why they would flash? 
 

Looks like the running light source has some monitor/power activity even when powered off.  Guess I will have to run power for the bed lights to the 7 way 12v constant and just remember to turn off the switch when not in use.  Either that or run them constant with a relay to the factory bed lights.

Yeah, I’ve read about that before in other threads & have seen it happen with my truck & trailer. I was told it had something to do with the trailer theft setting but I shut it off on mine & it still does it.
You’ll likely have to wire it to the 12v constant. You could maybe wire in a switch so the light shuts off when the tailgate is closed.
  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Ryno12 said:

 


Yeah, I’ve read about that before in other threads & have seen it happen with my truck & trailer. I was told it had something to do with the trailer theft setting but I shut it off on mine & it still does it.
You’ll likely have to wire it to the 12v constant. You could maybe wire in a switch so the light shuts off when the tailgate is closed.

 

Thanks Ryno12 for the information I have never heard of this.  I just turned it off in the trailer settings and now the lights don't flicker or flash at all when off.  Either I got lucky or it was fixed with one of the recall/software updates.  Anyhow thanks again.

  • Like 1
Posted
Thanks Ryno12 for the information I have never heard of this.  I just turned it off in the trailer settings and now the lights don't flicker or flash at all when off.  Either I got lucky or it was fixed with one of the recall/software updates.  Anyhow thanks again.

Glad to hear it worked out for you. I’ll have to play with mine a little more to see if I can get them to stop flicking.
  • Like 1
Posted
51 minutes ago, Ryno12 said:


Glad to hear it worked out for you. I’ll have to play with mine a little more to see if I can get them to stop flicking.

Well after turning off the trailer notification last night I got in the truck this morning and the screen showed lane change alert disabled and says I have trailer lights that are out.  I unhooked everything and finally got the truck to clear the errors.  Looks like I will go with the other plan to wire directly to 12V and not play with fire anymore.

Posted
Well after turning off the trailer notification last night I got in the truck this morning and the screen showed lane change alert disabled and says I have trailer lights that are out.  I unhooked everything and finally got the truck to clear the errors.  Looks like I will go with the other plan to wire directly to 12V and not play with fire anymore.

If I recall, there’s an accessory setting for the trailer plug. I wonder if that might work better for your application.
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Anyone find a viable solution to adding more lights? Is there a way to splice a switch into the current bed lights? 
 

Can the oem lights be popped off even with a spray in liner? Figure that would be the easiet is just run them off those lights...

Posted

I assume the blue wire in the factory harness for the box lights goes to the BCM, is the a way to tap that wire to the BCM in the cab so when the interior lights come on when you open the door or hit the unlock button on the fob the bed lights would also come on? 

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I plan to use the tailgate release circuit to trigger a relay and have the bed lights come on and stay on for a period of time. Hoping to grab 12v for the relay from the lighting circuit in the rear.  Using one of these adjustable timer relays. (ive used them before and they are great) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JC38GLS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_2SM8Y740QSXPHX2VNJVJ

 

If you have a bed cover  and dont mind your bed lights on all the time...you could use a diode and pig tail at the bcm plug to jump headlights to bed lights. So bed lights are always on when the headlights are on.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I have a 2021 1500 sierra at4. Put a set of 3 led running lights on and tapped off the trailer running light wire. Well these new trucks are too smart. The truck can sense these lights and assumes a trailer is hooked up. From there, it thinks the other trailer lights are not working and warns you constantly. It also makes the side cameras come on when using the turn signals. I'm looking to see if hooking into the tail light parking lights might eliminate this issue.

 

After I posted, I realize my profile is a bit outdated. I had since had a 2018 high country 6.2 and now have the sierra AT4 6.2

Edited by dieseldick
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Maybe I just got lucky but I just ran mine directly from each bed light and have had no issues. They just come on with the bed lights and go off with the bed lights. I used ttaps or whatever they are called and went straight to the bed light wires.

IMG_3187.jpeg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/29/2020 at 8:06 PM, Coles5515 said:

Anyone find a viable solution to adding more lights? Is there a way to splice a switch into the current bed lights? 
 

Can the oem lights be popped off even with a spray in liner? Figure that would be the easiet is just run them off those lights...

 

On 2/23/2020 at 6:23 PM, HONDABBQ said:

It does seem a little silly to have to go in the truck to hit that light switch to turn them on long term. 

 

You can add a switch to the bed. Here's what I did on the refresh.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 505 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...