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Posted
On 3/15/2020 at 2:41 PM, flyingfool said:

are you guys even catching oil with your catch cans?  

I hardly catch any these days and don't even consume any oil between oil changes...

I have not even checked mine yet. I am planning on doing another video as an update. I have heard the catch can will catch a lot more junk when it is colder outside. It has varied over here, we have had some really warm days and very cold days. I am anxious to see what is in the can. 

Posted (edited)

i recently switched to 5w-30 Redline oil from the 0-20 oil recommended, so i'm curious if this helps reduce the oil getting into the pcv system. i found i caught about a 1/2 oz. shot  about every 2000 miles,  I never got much oil from the valve covers, maybe a teaspoons worth caught after 5000 miles. average temps is 70 degrees here.

 

Edited by flyingfool
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Nice video. I know this thread's a few months old, but rather than start a new one...

 

I think I'm going to try the E2000 can for my new truck. It's only got 350 miles on it now, but the sooner I get started on it, the better. The 6.2L PCV line is much shorter as it goes from under the throttle body just like the 5.3L but just runs to the top side of the throttle body instead of 1/2 way down the intake.

 

And although technically they shouldn't cancel a warranty, I'm not going to take any chances. I'm going to keep the factory PCV hose and disconnect/remove that can if I ever have to take it in for service.

 

I'm probably going to add a ball valve as a drain valve to the bottom of the can so I don't have to wear out the o-rings, too. We'll see how hard it is to reach once it's installed.

Posted
Nice video. I know this thread's a few months old, but rather than start a new one...
 
I think I'm going to try the E2000 can for my new truck. It's only got 350 miles on it now, but the sooner I get started on it, the better. The 6.2L PCV line is much shorter as it goes from under the throttle body just like the 5.3L but just runs to the top side of the throttle body instead of 1/2 way down the intake.
 
And although technically they shouldn't cancel a warranty, I'm not going to take any chances. I'm going to keep the factory PCV hose and disconnect/remove that can if I ever have to take it in for service.
 
I'm probably going to add a ball valve as a drain valve to the bottom of the can so I don't have to wear out the o-rings, too. We'll see how hard it is to reach once it's installed.


The 19+ trucks it’s not hard to unscrew dump and replace

d24649989ff5b3f73a0b19f7c441b328.jpg


Ryan B.
Posted

I guess we shall see. I just found out I had about $400 laying around doing nothing in my paypal account, so I went ahead and spent $255 of it and bought the E2000. Looks like it only takes about 20 minutes tops to install, and most of that is getting the tools together and the intake junk out of the way.

 

Got cans on my 2013 ZL1 and 2010 Camaro SS. Don't get much out of them, but at least peace of mind. Even if they arguably aren't required, they surely do not hurt to collect oil that shouldn't be in that tube in the first place.

Posted
I guess we shall see. I just found out I had about $400 laying around doing nothing in my paypal account, so I went ahead and spent $255 of it and bought the E2000. Looks like it only takes about 20 minutes tops to install, and most of that is getting the tools together and the intake junk out of the way.
 
Got cans on my 2013 ZL1 and 2010 Camaro SS. Don't get much out of them, but at least peace of mind. Even if they arguably aren't required, they surely do not hurt to collect oil that shouldn't be in that tube in the first place.


Install is simple. I definitely get more out of my trucks than with my Camaros. Probably being daily drive. Vs weekend vehicles


Ryan B.
Posted
6 hours ago, 2020SierraDenali said:

Nice video. I know this thread's a few months old, but rather than start a new one...

 

I think I'm going to try the E2000 can for my new truck. It's only got 350 miles on it now, but the sooner I get started on it, the better. The 6.2L PCV line is much shorter as it goes from under the throttle body just like the 5.3L but just runs to the top side of the throttle body instead of 1/2 way down the intake.

 

And although technically they shouldn't cancel a warranty, I'm not going to take any chances. I'm going to keep the factory PCV hose and disconnect/remove that can if I ever have to take it in for service.

 

I'm probably going to add a ball valve as a drain valve to the bottom of the can so I don't have to wear out the o-rings, too. We'll see how hard it is to reach once it's installed.

One piece of input. I have a E2-x can with the ball valve on the bottom. Its easy to empty, but does take some coordination to hold a container and open the valve while contorting your hands to get to it. At least based on my mounting to the brake booster. Bigger deal is that every once in a while, the ball valve gets jammed up with the crap caught by the can. It sort of solidifies into a plug the consistency of wet clay. A piece of wire can open it up, but you really need to clean out the can. Had it on for about 30k now. Only cleaned it once after I wasn't getting any fluid out. Took me longer than it should have to figure it out, but once I did, I kind of like the design of the new one where the bottom screws off as its own container and no valve to clog. For me, I plan to clean it out once a year now just to prevent the clog.  

 

Very happy with how much it pulls out of the engine though. 

Posted
8 hours ago, ftwhite said:

One piece of input. I have a E2-x can with the ball valve on the bottom. Its easy to empty, but does take some coordination to hold a container and open the valve while contorting your hands to get to it. At least based on my mounting to the brake booster. Bigger deal is that every once in a while, the ball valve gets jammed up with the crap caught by the can. It sort of solidifies into a plug the consistency of wet clay. A piece of wire can open it up, but you really need to clean out the can. Had it on for about 30k now. Only cleaned it once after I wasn't getting any fluid out. Took me longer than it should have to figure it out, but once I did, I kind of like the design of the new one where the bottom screws off as its own container and no valve to clog. For me, I plan to clean it out once a year now just to prevent the clog.  

 

Very happy with how much it pulls out of the engine though. 

Thank you for that. This one doesn't have a drain valve- yet. Like I said, I'm going to make that call once I get it installed and see how it pans out as far as accessibility whether it's easier to pull it or if it's worthwhile to drill/tap and install a drain valve. Going to also get a handle on the O-ring size if I end up pulling it all the time because at $10 each, their O-rings can't be all that special. They should be certified by the FDA or something at that price.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finally got around to installing the E2000 can on the truck. Pretty straightforward. Looks nice overall, but a couple things that wasn't pleasing was that somehow the clamp didn't hold the can tight. And the clamp bolt was very tight. Hit a bump and the can would slide down.  I removed the can then wrapped a single piece of electrical tape around the can top and then mounted the can into the clamp. Problem solved. I could have bent the clamp a tad to get it out of round a bit to reduce clearance, but didn't want to risk screwing it up too badly. 

 

There was just a minimal amount of oil in the intake and PCV tube. I cleaned that up best I could, but we'll see how it holds out.

 

The other thing was how close it was to the oil fill cap. So I bent the "L" bracket slightly to give the can more clearance around that fill cap. Again, problem solved. The factory style clips and AN fittings made it super simple to connect. I still need to re-orient the can a little better about 180 degrees and get the hoses a bit neater. I was just trying to get it not to fall at this point, and when I took the picture I realized I can do a bit better with the aesthetics part of this.

 

I put my PCV "return to stock in about 5 minutes" kit in a bag, then put that in the storage bin under the back seat. It consists of the original PCV pipe, 7 mm socket (for the air cleaner clamps), 10 mm socket, 7/16" socket and 7/16" wrench, and a small ratchet handle with an extension.

 

 

E2000 catch can.JPG

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/16/2020 at 1:33 AM, flyingfool said:

are you hard on the truck or baby it? 

After having mine installed for about eight months now I can say without a doubt it catches a considerable amount of crud. I have probably emptied it about every two months for a total of four times since I have had it. Honestly the can has never been full, more like about 1/4 to 1/3 full. Having that said, I do feel better about having that crud in the can and not the top of my engine. 

 

Another thing is I can attest that I have been absolutely driving my truck with a gentle nature in mind. My Nationwide agent talked me into installing one of these Smartride monitors on my truck to get a discount. You keep it plugged in for like a year or something and then send it back in and I think you even do retain some sort of discount even after returning it if it deems you a 'safe driver'. So I have definitely been trying not to get into it too hard since around the time that I installed the catch can. 

Posted (edited)

what oil are you using, just curious , as my oil consumption stopped when I went to a full ester based oil  at 5w-30. I also use the Katec 175 t-stat so my oil stays cooler and doesn't thin out due to higher heat from the factory stat.

Edited by flyingfool
Posted

I've read that a lot of the liquid found in catch can's is water. Condensation builds up every cold/heat cycle, and that's why it can look milky; more of a problem with metal cans. The one's with a cork filter aren't supposed really release pressure until the engine is shut off, allowing it to dissipate over time. Its just a swirling vortex of pressure in the can until that happens.

 

I'm not saying they don't work, because they do. Its just to bad Gm didn't give us a catch can like they did the 2017+ Camaro. Yeah it drains back to the pan but I wouldn't have a problem with that. I change my oil at 50% anyways. And the C7 (some Camaro's) apparently don't need it because of the dry sump. So its just us truck owners and our wet sumps that got screwed over. 

 

I can't seem to find much info on our valve covers. There's supposed to be some sort of air/oil separator in them. Anyone know? 

Posted (edited)

if you got milkyness in your catch can, I would replace the PCV valve, or wash the pcv out with crc cleaner, its not doing its job and probably plugged up

Edited by flyingfool

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