Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey cNate. Did you ever get that camera you were gonna buy working with transparent trailer view? Just curious with your 34’11” trailer. I’m in the same boat and would like to know if it works before I buy one. Thanks 

Posted
On 3/9/2020 at 8:48 PM, david5311 said:

Just bought a 2020 GMC 3500 Denalli and pull a 40' fifth wheel. Do I understand it right that the camera will work on the back of the trailer and show the behind the trailer view but not in the transparent view? Is there enough wire to run from the back of a 40' trailer to the plug in on the truck?

 

Thanks

David

"Invisible" trailer is not available on 5th wheel or gooseneck profile because the cab camera is too close, and not correctly relative to the tailgate camera.  I have created a bumper pull profile for my 5th wheel and you get a real funky fish eye version of invisible trailer.  The tailgate camera and cab camera cannot sync but it serves the purpose of seeing behind the trailer and down the sides using the mirror cams.  My 5th wheel is 33-1/2" feet, just under the maximum allowable profile length.  I had just enough cable to mount the camera, tailgate high, on the rear of the trailer. I routed the cable from the camera over to the side and down underneath.  I ran it under the winter skirting and popped it out the hole where the opening for the pin box is (this is very important, you do not want to pop it out beneath the front of the trailer and plug it in, you will not have enough slack to make turns).  I have just enough slack to plug it into the bumper plug and be able to back it up making 90+ degree turns.  

Posted

Well that was not in the literature I read. That sucks that it won't work on a 5th wheel. I guess I can still use the camera for backing and changing lanes. Camera needs to be mounted tailgate high? 

 

Posted
7 minutes ago, GMC4Zee said:

Well that was not in the literature I read. That sucks that it won't work on a 5th wheel. I guess I can still use the camera for backing and changing lanes. Camera needs to be mounted tailgate high? 

 

It only needs to be mounted tailgate high for transparent.  The higher you mount it the more fish eye the picture will be.

 

#iworkforGM 

  • Like 1
Posted

Have a '21 Silverado 1500 Crew Longbed LTZ w/all the base cameras and 2,500 miles.  Considering the rear of trailer camera purchase.  I am not keen on the idea of mounting on the rear of the trailer as my trailer is a 30 ft., in-line snowmobile trailer, w/rear ramp door.  In some unloading conditions, there is not much clearance between door and ground - snow - etc.   High possibility of camera contacting ground and being damaged, when door is opened.   Can the camera be mounted on the left doorpost ( viewed from the rear ) and the input figures be fudged to make it work ? ?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/14/2021 at 9:09 AM, PMark800 said:

Have a '21 Silverado 1500 Crew Longbed LTZ w/all the base cameras and 2,500 miles.  Considering the rear of trailer camera purchase.  I am not keen on the idea of mounting on the rear of the trailer as my trailer is a 30 ft., in-line snowmobile trailer, w/rear ramp door.  In some unloading conditions, there is not much clearance between door and ground - snow - etc.   High possibility of camera contacting ground and being damaged, when door is opened.   Can the camera be mounted on the left doorpost ( viewed from the rear ) and the input figures be fudged to make it work ? ?

No there is not horizontal calibration, you will have a lopsided view.  I guess you can always mount it tailgate high, in the center of the door and fabricate a make-shift, removable bracket so you can remove the camera and hang it off to the side while unloading?  I don't know, I was really unimpressed with the actual functionality compared to watching the commercial on TV.  A remote system with very small camera would be ideal.  My 5th wheel has a large storage compartment under the rear bunk that has a large on hatch on the rear (almost like a toy hauler).  I had to run the cable around the opening and down the door from above it's center.  It looks very gawdy with the black cable against the white exterior.  And no, it does not clearly state that the cameras do not function with the "invisible" trailer when you have a 5th wheel, I just learned the hard way after the purchase.  

Posted (edited)

Watching this thread and I was on the fence on ordering this.  Seems like a great first step.  But until this is wireless it just seems like a huge headache.  The other solution seems for trailer manufactures to integrate this into their build process then you can just hook up to the truck.

Edited by nards444
Posted

Wireless would be a dream come true.  Mount the wireless transmitter in the top front of the trailer, hardwired into the invisible trailer truck plug, along with the electrical/brake wiring.  Then having the camera being a wireless receiver, with a quick mount, on the exterior of the door/trailer back wall.  Not complicated at all, I just don't know enough on how to carry it all out. 

On most trailers, this would be pretty much unobstructed, except for the thickness of the rear door, pure "line of sight".  "Piece of cake".......

Sure would be nice if GM and a Trailer Manufacturer or major trailer parts supplier could get together and come up with something.

AAhhh, to be young again and dream...

Posted
11 hours ago, PMark800 said:

Wireless would be a dream come true.  Mount the wireless transmitter in the top front of the trailer, hardwired into the invisible trailer truck plug, along with the electrical/brake wiring.  Then having the camera being a wireless receiver, with a quick mount, on the exterior of the door/trailer back wall.  Not complicated at all, I just don't know enough on how to carry it all out. 

On most trailers, this would be pretty much unobstructed, except for the thickness of the rear door, pure "line of sight".  "Piece of cake".......

Sure would be nice if GM and a Trailer Manufacturer or major trailer parts supplier could get together and come up with something.

AAhhh, to be young again and dream...

The dealer explained this option to me and saw some of these threads and was like no thanks, thats to much hassle.  Been towing things for 20 years without a camera and so has everybody else, not like this accomplishes much tbh.  Ill wait,  I like tech too but rarely do I jump on version 1 of things. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey folks,

 

Any chance the invisible trailer option will work with the display on the rear-view mirror on the Denalis? Would like to keep the maps on the infotainment screen.

Posted
On 4/27/2021 at 9:01 AM, carpenike said:

Hey folks,

 

Any chance the invisible trailer option will work with the display on the rear-view mirror on the Denalis? Would like to keep the maps on the infotainment screen.

Pretty sure the rearview camera is hard wired directly to the mirror. It does not go through the radio/trailer comm system. I agree it would be nice, but does not currently work that way.

Posted
6 hours ago, sdelam said:

Pretty sure the rearview camera is hard wired directly to the mirror. It does not go through the radio/trailer comm system. I agree it would be nice, but does not currently work that way.

Thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

There have been a lot of problems with the rear trailer cameras, whether using the transparent trailer view or just the trailer camera view.  Mine has always had the problem of freezing, then going black after a short time (about 10 to 20 minutes).  I have to turn the truck off and wait a few minutes to get it started again, but same the thing happens every time.

On a previous forum conversation string (that I can't find now) several owners have experienced the same thing.  One discovered there were seven iterations of the camera.  I purchased the vendor supplied camera in February 2020, so I probably have one of the first iterations.  I think GM released this technology before it was ready and is BETA testing on us.

The only time the camera worked for a longer period of time was when I started it and immediately got stuck in a three hour backup on the freeway.  It worked the whole time going no more than 10MPH.  As soon as I got past the roadwork and sped up it quit again so I think speed is a factor.

I had my dealership replace the camera module behind the back seat last month.  They also found a water leak in the rear window and had that replaced by an automotive window vendor.  The leak was right above the camera module so I was hopeful it would work now.  No luck.  I experienced the same symptoms of camera freezing, then going black.  I did notice the initial calibration of the transparent trailer view worked much better, though.

P.S. My travel trailer is 35 feet so I had to lie to the truck when inputting the length.  It makes the transparent view a little distorted on the left and right edges, but that would be fine with me if it just didn't quit working every time.

Posted

Ryno12, a couple things about the system and your truck. The camera plugs into the connections on the bumper not in the bed where you most likely plug in the 5th wheel. I have a '21 AT4 3500 and will need to swap the connection so I can plug in with the line feeding down the pin. Also you will have to spoof the system as it was not designed for 5th wheels. Most have got it to work. I am in the process but have not run the camera wire yet. My 5th is 32.5 feet long. Plenty of threads on forum about it. Pissed that GM did set it up for 5th wheels.

Posted

Has anyone tried to mount the camera with adhesive tape instead of putting holes in the back of your trailer?  Curious if it will hold with the rough ride of a travel trailer?  I’m going to install my camera this weekend. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...