Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

OK with the kickpanel out of the way, it's time to mount the fusebox and finish the electrical connections to the truck.

 

In your bag 'o parts, locate a black plug that's not connected to anything. This black plug will connect the end of the red wire you ran through the firewall, to a dedicated port on the fusebox.

 

Looking at this first pic, you can see the red wire you already ran in the first phase, needs to get plugged into the fusebox. That black plug is going to accept the red wire, then you'll insert the plug into the correct connector on the fusebox.

 

It's somewhat hard to see here, but the red wire's on the left, and if you look inside the connector on the fusebox, you'll see a blade connector.

IMG_0585.jpg.b238ae29c12946043a61d9cd5533c079.jpg

 

At first I thought they just went together, but, kinda cool, GM gave you a plug for this. Go through your bag(s) of goodies that came with the kit, and find the empty/blank black connector  with no wires.

 

This plug has two sides to it - but only one side will correctly connect the red wire to the fusebox. Carefully note which side you need, then slide the end of the red wire (the one you ran through the firewall in the first phase) into the correct side of the black clip. It's probably possible to remove the wire if you get it wrong, but just get it right the first time. Measure twice, clip once.

IMG_0598.jpg.36500f712d0a72e2ff38420e9fddefdc.jpg

 

Once you're done, let's do one more thing on the fusebox itself. You'll find two set of unterminated wires coming out of the fusebox. Meaning, they have just wrapped electrical tape around them - one set has four wires - these are "The Beef" where you connect your accessories to the Upfitter Switches. There's another gang of three wires - they are for trailer brakes and wiring. I just put more electrical tape on them, and zip'd the gang of three wires to the harness itself. I don't plan on using them, and I'm not sure what you'd went them for since you already have a trailer plug on the back of your truck.

 

IMG_0587.jpg.fcb1abc3a57c7a67e4baf3ea90e1bf3a.jpg

Edited by blamkin86
Posted (edited)

OK get off the floor and grab a beer. Take a break. Still a couple steps to go, then you have to put it all back together of course...

 

... I'll wait. I'm not much of a drinker myself, but I need to make some burgers for dinner.

Edited by blamkin86
  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted

Once your break's over, it's time to do another electrical thing.

 

Go back to the side of the dash where you took the factory fuse block off. If you look in there (technically I did this from the bottom, but..) you'll see a grey electrical connector that has an empty/blank plug in it. Take the plug out.

 

IMG_0579.jpg.9920e09c8ff42a5d00b993e16489b56b.jpg

 

Unfortunately my pix are all from the bottom looking out. If you can't find the grey plug from the side, climb back under the dash and look up, and towards the fusebox. You should see it - mine was pointing down.

 

IMG_0578.jpg.b2cd25b3d1de489fef18394faa8050fd.jpg

Posted

OK we are rounding the last corner and heading for the final stretch of this phase.

 

First, grab the fusebox, and hold it near where we'll be installing it:

IMG_0597.jpg.0f450d511d7ab92edbd2666b1af8ac74.jpg

 

First, the black plug you just put on the red wire from the first steps, plug that into the fusebox. I don't have a picture of this, but there's only one place it can go.

 

Next, take the grey plug from the fusebox harness, and plug it into the grey plug where you removed the blank/empty end:

IMG_0602.jpg.0eca754fc7cbf966b7fb30aee06b540f.jpg

 

Next, run the last unused black connector from the fusebox to the actual upfitter switches on the kickpanel:

IMG_0601.jpg.1da460d4bd79ddc473dfe69ad309a22a.jpg

 

At this point, you're switches are wired into the harness in your truck. 

 

One last step here - and this is where you may deviate from what I do. Because I knew I didn't want to take all this off again, and because I didn't have specific screws that would work AND because the screws that I took off the truck did work, I reused them. You may want to do something different.

 

In any case, match up the two screw holes in the fuse block with two empty holes on the support beam right behind the kickpanel, directly under the steering wheel. They're kind of hard to see, but I did manage to get a picture of me tightening down the screws.

 

IMG_0603.jpg.4eb132a49683293f2b25289c45daec09.jpg

 

So, once it's tightened down, double check that you've

1) plugged the grey plug from the harness to the grey plug where you removed the blank connector

2) plugged the black plug from the harness, through the supports, out the dash, and into the back of the upfitter switches

3) plugged the new black plug that you added the red wire into the fuse box.

 

It maybe is also a good idea to see where you left the four loose (electrical tape) wires. Whatever you wire to these switches is going to have to come all the way back to one of these four wires. (Sorry, this is one case where Ford got it better- their wires are all outside under the hood. Sorry, I don't like saying that either, but theirs is better.)

Posted

A couple notes from that last step:

 

First, notice that I accidentally unclipped my electric parking brake switch. Don't leave that thing off - fix it now, or you'll be back in here again later.

Second, when I pulled out the kickpanel, I also noticed the other end of the hood release had pulled out from the firewall. Don't leave that thing loose, plug it back in, or you'll wonder why your toes are wet next time it rains.

Posted (edited)

With it all still apart, put your key in acc mode and make sure that each light on each upfitter switch comes on. If not, you've missed a step. It's probably either the small black plug in the back of the switches, or the grey plug that went to the factory harness...

 

So, start putting it all back together. 

 

You have pix above about how it all came out.  Remember that, if you did it my way, you're now two screws short. I left off the very last screw, and one of the ones behind the factory fuse cover - those seemed the easiest to come back and fix later.

 

Don't forget to clip the factory fusebox back into the side there. Also when you're done you'll want to clip the bottom of the kickpanel back in, of course.

 

Here's some pix of mine going back together:

 

IMG_0606.jpg.1c062f6188505119113d6ac07841aa1c.jpg

 

IMG_0609.jpg.abb1f9f3fe710ef53bafb070bf411214.jpg

 

IMG_0607.jpg.c4fbd00cebbef7f60c267c8495305ce4.jpg

 

IMG_0611.jpg.9905d6d0b74613e82aaa4414e7d0bb61.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited by blamkin86
Posted

So that's it for today. 

 

Tomorrow, we'll finalize the wire hanging over the passenger battery.

 

The good news is, compared to Today, that looks SUPER simple.

 

Be thinking about what you want to power with your switches. I'm thinking:

1) Relay for onboard air compressor

2) Rock lights 

3) Crazy-bright backup light I can also leave on for when we arrive late at campsites with the camper

4) I don't know! Maybe some of those neat looking lights that go above the side steps?

 

Time for a second beer - you deserve it!

  • Like 2
Posted

Not sure if it's just my phone but all the pictures are blank(broken link)

 

 

They appear in the browser just not on Tapatalk

 

 

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Interesting thanks. 
 

On both my PC and phone browsers I can see the pix. 
 

maybe they’ll update tapatalk or something

 

sorry about that. 

Edited by blamkin86
  • Like 1
Posted

Nice work! I had the dealer install the new kick  panel with the switches and run the wire through the firewall when my truck was in for an oil change.  Definitely the hardest part.  I finished up the easy parts haha. But nice write up!  Hopefully you continue the thread with the accessories you install and connect to the switches. Also a quick tip, you can use the 5th aux button it’s just pre wired to a blunt cut wire in the roof spoiler. Thinking for emergency light or back rack lights.  Also I agree with you lol, Ford did do their upfitter switches better with the connections under the hood (pains me too lol). We just bought an f250 for one of our guys and it’s way easier to connect stuff. The switches on the overhead console is kinda cool too...

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Well sorry - the snow got me today - I'll try and hit the last step this weekend.

 

As said above, I'm pretty sure its' the easy part...

 

... thanks for the kind words!

Edited by blamkin86
  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, blamkin86 said:

Well sorry - the snow got me today - I'll try and hit the last step this weekend.

 

As said above, I'm pretty sure its' the easy part...

 

... thanks for the kind words!

I’ve done lots of write ups on other forums over the years so I appreciate the time and effort you have put into this!

 

Great contribution.  Good job. 

  • Like 3
Posted

Sweet write up.  Thanks.

 

Just FYI: tried ordering UPFitter switch kit and dealer is telling me GM is holding sales right now and didn't know why.  Apparently you can still get the kick panel with cutout.  They also quoted me $150 labor to install but will probably do it myself as the travel and wait time will be longer.

  • Like 1
Posted

Outstanding job on this.  Thanks for sharing. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey all - thanks again for the kind comments. To be honest, I'm trying to save a few bucks because I think tough times are probably coming. Since this was a project that I already owned, it seemed a great way to spend time while quarantining, and get this thing done. In reference to my old ford, I actually used the upfitter switches for a couple things (front driving lights, camper connection, rear super huge backup lights) and I love my new truck so much I really wanted to get on to those projects.

 

Let's go!

 

OK first off, yes this is by far the easiest step: It's also the most dangerous.

 

No, I don't like unnecessary drama either, but while you're working on the exposed battery terminals, there's a chance you could ground out something with a tool and make a big spark and mess, and maybe even a fire.

 

So be smart. When I tell you to remove the grounds, and even then to be careful, do it. I can't take responsibility at this point; if you keep following these directions you're on your own.

 

OK drama over.

 

So for this step, we're going to connect that red wire we ran across the top of the firewall in  the first phase. To do that, we'll

1) Disconnect grounds from BOTH batteries

2) Install some electrical bits just above the passenger battery

3) Connect the red wire

4) Put it all back together.

 

As witness to the idea that this step is easiest, I think I spent more time taking pix than I did wrenching. Hopefully you''ll have the same experience.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I tried before I updated the scan tool just incase an update messed it up, but it never worked so I updated the scan tool and it still didn't work.   Only difference is I click on Sierra not Chevrolet cause I have a Sierra.   If I click on 2026-2024 I didn't have any option to change placard, when I click on 2023 it does give me the option but when I try to do it,.it says vehicle not supported!   I have my region or market or whatever it is set to America I think, is that what yours is set to?
    • Its just that it worked on 2024 trucks on this forum and my 2025 model truck, unless GM did something since that point to screw up access or Autel has a bad update. I haven't had need to use my tool since last year when I did the changes to the placard pressure settings and since then I updated the software on my Autel but have not plugged into the OBD so hard to say if I would get a surprise as well.    All I know last year when I bought the Autel I was warned to be sure to update it before I tried using the unit as they said who knows how long ago unit itself was actually manufactured as the software could be way out of date. 
    • And so you had gone through the process of registering and updating the tool and so on ?. All I can say is that on the front page as the tool fires up you go to advanced mode, then vehicle model comes up and you choose Silverado ( not the DRW or EV  since your a single rear wheel ) , then I think its choice 2 which is 07/2021 - 12/2026 ( 433mhz 13542523 ) as that is the series of tpms sensors and then go down to choice 5 which is tire type/pressure selection. Hit yes and it says to connect to OBD port and turn ignition on.    Having said this, I updated the software in my tool lately and these year range choices look different from the past due to them doing some updates it would appear and I have not connected up to the OBD port since last year so hopefully I am not in for a surprise with them screwing up the software and that it won't work on my truck anymore either.    So my question is, when you plugged into the OBD and started your truck it had that message on the Autel screen "vehicle not supported" ?. That does seem odd as tire shops would be pissed right off if hey can't use their tool on the model year after mine that in theory is supposed to be much the same truck ... unless GM did some change in the computer system to block certain things from access. 
    • Understanding and using modern scan tools is its own body of knowledge. I had little hope that would work...programming access to the BCM is probably required and that is not easy for us consumers. Expensive scan tool, GM programming subscription, online authentication, etc.   It also may be a matter of finding the right dealer to program it for you. Flashing a modern BCM might be a little too advanced for most tire shops.
    • Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...