Jump to content

Let's install the "upfitter switches"

blamkin86

By blamkin86
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dan Pemberton Enthusiast

Dan Pemberton

Posted
Posted

I installed the up fitter kit in my trail boss ( 2020 ) everything went well has the center console cupholder so a bit more work hooked up power checked it at the battery and the is power at the cable but no power to the accessory wires The lights go on and off the switches but no power to the wires . I switched the 5 amp fuse in their positons but still no power to the leads   Anybody have this problem ? Thanks 

  • Replies 233
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

blamkin86
blamkin86

This week, I'll slowly detail the installation of the GM upfitter switches. They're going in a 2020 GMC Sierra AT4.   If you're not familiar with the Upfitter Switches, they're a bank of 5 s

blamkin86
blamkin86

That's it for today. Neither end of the main wire is connected to anything - and that's ok for now.   Tomorrow we'll start discombobulating the dash. There are a lot of pieces to remove. If

blamkin86
blamkin86

OK get off the floor and grab a beer. Take a break. Still a couple steps to go, then you have to put it all back together of course...   ... I'll wait. I'm not much of a drinker myself, but

Posted Images

Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
I installed the up fitter kit in my trail boss ( 2020 ) everything went well has the center console cupholder so a bit more work hooked up power checked it at the battery and the is power at the cable but no power to the accessory wires The lights go on and off the switches but no power to the wires . I switched the 5 amp fuse in their positons but still no power to the leads   Anybody have this problem ? Thanks 
Check the plug where the cable that came through the firewall is connected. If not in far enough, or in the wrong slot when you plugged it into the provided receptacle then you could be experiencing what you described. I had a similar issue with mine, and that's where the problem was. Installer error.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • 4 weeks later...
rmac4 Enthusiast

rmac4

Posted
Posted

Just did the complete install last night... to include completely removing the knee bolster. What a pain in the ***! This discussion was incredibly helpful as I have the center console and could not figure out how to get the lower trim off the radio area.

 

Thanks to all who have contributed to the how-to!

todd308 Enthusiast

todd308

Posted
Posted

Did this install today, it was way easier to cut the panel for the switches than replace the entire bolster.   Huge thanks to the OP for this, it would be pretty daunting without it.  Even the youtube stuff I found was only to remove everything and replace the bolster. 

 

Anyone know what the part # or where to get the little zip tie attachments that are held by the panel clips for the battery cable under the hood?  I've looked around but haven't been able to find anything similar.  I ended up cutting mine off, because where they were installed there was no way they were matching up with the battery attachment site and the panel clips in my 21' AT4 and I couldn't slide them on the shilding.  

 

I do wish GM was smart and put the relays/fuses/power under the hood and just ran wires to the switches in the dash.  That or at least but 3 of them under the hood and keep 2 inside.  It seems kinda ridiculous to have to run those little 12-14ga power wires back under the hood and to the battey area to hook stuff up or attach say 8/10ga wire to them and try to get that back out of the firewall to the hood/roof area.  I suppose if you wanted something powered in the bed it might work to just drop underneath by the seat.  Looking at wiring diagrams while the relay/fuse/switch might be 20 and 30 amp, 30 amps at 12-14ga wiring isn't even recommended for more than a couple feet.   10ga is the minimum for a 10' run and 30amps.   

 

Thanks!

  • 3 weeks later...
rmac4 Enthusiast

rmac4

Posted
Posted

Anyone have any issues with a power draw after the upfitter switch install?? My truck has had 2 completely drained batteries over the last 3 weeks, each time after a few days of not going anywhere. 
 

Fuses are placed to only allow power once ignition is on. 

  • 1 month later...
Thaflood Enthusiast

Thaflood

Posted
Posted

I never got around to doing this project and just sold my truck. I have the entire kit still in the box if anybody is interested in it. I also have the rear trailer camera that plugs into the bumper available. 

TheElementalCashew Enthusiast

TheElementalCashew

Posted
Posted
On 7/16/2021 at 1:15 PM, Thaflood said:

I never got around to doing this project and just sold my truck. I have the entire kit still in the box if anybody is interested in it. I also have the rear trailer camera that plugs into the bumper available. 

What do you want for the camera shipped? 

FredzDenali New Member

FredzDenali

Posted
Posted
On 7/16/2021 at 1:15 PM, Thaflood said:

I never got around to doing this project and just sold my truck. I have the entire kit still in the box if anybody is interested in it. I also have the rear trailer camera that plugs into the bumper available. 

I am interested in the camera if not sold.

  • 1 month later...
Kerry Pulaski Enthusiast

Kerry Pulaski

Posted
Posted

Thank You All !!  Awesome info. Just joined this portal. Awaiting my 2022 2500HD Duramax, after my 2016 totaled in multi vehicle pileup.  These postings are so helpful like the GMC Motorhome Int'l Club. I've restored a '73 GMC 26ft. Has Olds 455 front wheel drive, four wheel rear independent susp. w/air bags. Owners' of these share tons of never ending upgrades.

Example just for kicks : One GMC motorhome owner, Chuck Stoddard (Stoddard Porsche/Audi, Mentor, Oh.), had Hellwig Mfg. custom make a 2x size front replacement sway bay, and never before, dual rear swaybars. 12,000 lb. coach now drives like a Z-71 pickup.

  • 3 weeks later...
THE YETI Enthusiast

THE YETI

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well I finally did the install.  Got the truck may 27th of this year and had the "kit" sitting under the center seat storage waiting for ambition to build.  Took 5-10 mins to run the wire along the firewall and into the cab.  A little time to take the dash apart and put back together.  Was pretty straight forward thanks to your post.  Hardest part was definately the 2 screws to mount the fusebox.  I was lucky to have some extra torx screws from a mudflap install when replacing the plastic molding deal at the time(think thats where they came from)  so swapped out the hex heads for that spot and used the torx for an easily accessible spot.  Underhood bit to attach the wire n fuses took maybe a minute or 2.  Just wanted to say thanks for the write up.  This (and a ūtūb vid helped for the fuses and stud placement, including plow studs.  Its simple after seeing).

 

I need to think of something to wire up to the switches now.  Damn. Thats gona be the hardest part now.  Thanks again bud.

 

Also FYI to anyone saying the zipties holding the loom that have the hole for the push pins to mount under the hood are too tight,  they are, BUT.  You can move them.  Just use some patience (I'm known for having none myself but managed).  You need to gently move kind of rocking each side back and forth and then twist it around the loom in the same direction the aluminum tape was wrapped around it.  Little by little you will make some progress and have them positioned in the spot you need them at.  Didn't really take all that long to do.  Also i ended up drilling through the plastic in one area that didn't have a factory push pin.  Drill from the bottom up and it take just 2 seconds using my Dewalt.

Edited by THE YETI
sjoconnorjr New Member

sjoconnorjr

Posted
Posted
On 4/25/2021 at 5:34 AM, Transient said:

Check the plug where the cable that came through the firewall is connected. If not in far enough, or in the wrong slot when you plugged it into the provided receptacle then you could be experiencing what you described. I had a similar issue with mine, and that's where the problem was. Installer error.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Great Advice!  That is exactly what happened to me. Went back and made sure I got a good Click, Bingo.  Thanks for all the help.....

 

Stephen

ncmurf00 New Member

ncmurf00

Posted
Posted

I just finished my install too. What I had the most trouble with was the 2 bottom screws for the radio. Had to pull out the console/cupholder assembly to pull off that bottom trim. After that, it wasn't bad. Did have a hard time with the zip tie looms under the hood but a little effort and rotating got them lined up. Not sure if GM changed the kit, but mine did come with the 2 screws to mount the relay box. Knowing what I know now, I could do it again pretty quick. It's always the first time that gets ya!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 580 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • rdonarski
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By rdonarski · Posted

      This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...