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Any regrets after lifting?


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11 hours ago, WilliamBos said:

Thanks.   I figure I will be happy with 4 1/2”

 

 I have running boards, will always have a set.  Best way to kick snow off the feet before getting in my truck, and not tearing my seat sliding in or out.

 

 

I'd look into the BDS 4" or 6" Coilover lift. Do something quality and really focus on spring and shock quality. Its cool to have a big truck but if it rides like a tank, how enjoyable will it be?

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I had leveled my 2014 and I got sick of that extra height without running boards.

You're gonna get tired of it.

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Bite your tongue sir! I’m at 4.5-5” lift, drives great, night and day difference from being leveled which rode like poop [emoji90]. It all depends on what and how it’s done.

If you want to keep more of a stock feel then a 4.5” lift is great, not to tall and rides great as long as you invest in great suspension. I’d recommend doing the CST lift as it doesn’t widen your track width or your turning radius and allows you to keep your stock wheels but to each their own.

Yesterday, out hog hunting with excellent clearance driving over logs and finally finding this cleared patch.
c45ea03266170c1d1d0dd6d15a0adf33.jpg


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I'd look into the BDS 4" or 6" Coilover lift. Do something quality and really focus on spring and shock quality. Its cool to have a big truck but if it rides like a tank, how enjoyable will it be?


I’d rather it drive stiff and be much more responsive than the land barge that the drive like prior to the lift. You’re absolutely correct though, Coilovers give a much better ride as do a great set of tires. Highly recommend dedicated AT tires and avoid the crappy hybrids which are worthless over 10k miles.


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1 minute ago, TXGREEK said:

 


I’d rather it drive stiff and be much more responsive than the land barge that the drive like prior to the lift. You’re absolutely correct though, Coilovers give a much better ride as do a great set of tires. Highly recommend dedicated AT tires and avoid the crappy hybrids which are worthless over 10k miles.


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I don't think there's a direct correlation between Stiff and responsive in this case like there would be with a sports car. You still need wheel travel and correctly valved shocks paired with the correct springs to provide a good ride along with responsiveness.. The factory suspension is entirely too stiff in the rear causing it to bounce all over the place when you hit a bump. The front is similar and has very little wheel travel which doesn't allow the tire to grab the road over bumps.

 

Tires are definitely a big part of it too. I have Nitto Ridge Grapplers that lost a lot of traction after being 30-40% worn. Theyre also an E rated tire i believe. My next tire will be a BFG KO2 C rated 315/70r17 along with king coilovers and shocks paired with deavers in the rear. We'll see how much of a difference that makes.

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47 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:


Bite your tongue sir! I’m at 4.5-5” lift, drives great, night and day difference from being leveled which rode like poop emoji90.png. It all depends on what and how it’s done.

If you want to keep more of a stock feel then a 4.5” lift is great, not to tall and rides great as long as you invest in great suspension. I’d recommend doing the CST lift as it doesn’t widen your track width or your turning radius and allows you to keep your stock wheels but to each their own.

Yesterday, out hog hunting with excellent clearance driving over logs and finally finding this cleared patch.
c45ea03266170c1d1d0dd6d15a0adf33.jpg


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47 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:


Bite your tongue sir! I’m at 4.5-5” lift, drives great, night and day difference from being leveled which rode like poop emoji90.png. It all depends on what and how it’s done.

If you want to keep more of a stock feel then a 4.5” lift is great, not to tall and rides great as long as you invest in great suspension. I’d recommend doing the CST lift as it doesn’t widen your track width or your turning radius and allows you to keep your stock wheels but to each their own.

Yesterday, out hog hunting with excellent clearance driving over logs and finally finding this cleared patch.
c45ea03266170c1d1d0dd6d15a0adf33.jpg


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Thank you!  What brand lift is that?  CST?  Im building in stages, would rstger lift and keep my stock wheels.    Going with Falken Wildpeak A/T3W, they are snow rated.

 

Edited by WilliamBos
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1 hour ago, WilliamBos said:

Thank you!  What brand lift is that?  CST?  Im building in stages, would rstger lift and keep my stock wheels.    Going with Falken Wildpeak A/T3W, they are snow rated.

 

Look into BFG KO2's as well.. a thread going on this forum about them and how good they are all year round.

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Yes but they may have it on sale or a few hundred less elsewhere, I’d call them and ask. If you’re going coil overs I’d look at Kings or just make sure whatever you choose that they’re “ADJUSTABLE!” and for ride quality I’d stick with dedicated AT’s and avoid going to big, maximum 33” or 34” as my truck rides a bit smoother with 33” than it did with 34”.


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44 minutes ago, Jetiemann said:

Look into BFG KO2's as well.. a thread going on this forum about them and how good they are all year round.

Im curious about the KO2’s myself, will the softer compound help them?  They are snow rated, ‘snowflake’ on sidewall.  
 

Im going to wait and see if the KO2 have the BFG trait of turning in to hockey pucks once they wear down a little.  My KO’s did that, was not impressed.

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