Jump to content

Traction Control?

gearheadesw

By gearheadesw
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

So I'm out on the sand trails last night, The sugar sand we have here in Florida can be treacherous, conditions where difficult at best with no rain for months here, we had a little rain yesterday. Now these sand trails are the real deal, pretty much bottomless in some places, but several feet deep everywhere, treacherous conditions to say the least. Stupidly, as I'm by myself, I managed to get temporarily stationary when I didn't want to in a low spot, uphill both ways, not paying attention to the prevailing conditions.

I'm in low range, trying to get out in reverse, make some good head way, but the torque multiplication in low range was scooping out the sand faster then I was going forward.

 

So I try Hi range, here's my deal, the truck wouldn't even gain RPM's, just sat there and made noise, couldn't get it to go above 1,000 RPM, just above idle. No power going to the wheels because the engine doesn't make any power at 1,000 RPM. I certain;y would have thought that it would have at least tried to spin the tires, but nothing, push the pedal, and nothing, like the T C was shutting down the show, nothing. 

 

Managed to power out in Low range with a little digging, and a lot of wheel spin with the G-80 bitting, and made it out,  no winching, cool .Everythnig was hot after revving, spinning, sawing the steering wheel for 30-40 minutes, but the Silver Dog pulled out. Hi range be damned in the sand.

2016HD Enthusiast

2016HD

Posted
Posted

Traction control will basically shut the engine down so the wheels dont spin. Have you not messed around in the snow with it on and off etc.  If its on and icy or snow or slick conditions you can plant your foot to the floor and the truck will barely move. Same thing its doing to you in the sand.  If offroad id recommend turning it off , just my 2cs

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Opps, the first thing that I do going off road is turn off the traction control.

That's my question, truck with the squiggly lines behind it was illuminated, yet acted exactly like the TC was on, mash the throttle, nothing.

SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted

Because even with the button pushed it's not off on these trucks... the gmt900 trucks are the same way.  Last decent truck they built for off pavement died in 2007...Quick and dirty is pull an abs fuse.  You can also disconnect the steering angle sensor on the steering column and kill it dead while retaining abs function.  That said just to get out of a hole an abs fuse works just as well.  

 

People that never leave asphalt or encounter heavy snow will never understand the frustrating stupidity of GMs traction control.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, gearheadesw said:

Opps, the first thing that I do going off road is turn off the traction control.

That's my question, truck with the squiggly lines behind it was illuminated, yet acted exactly like the TC was on, mash the throttle, nothing.

 

Did you push the TC button or did you hold it?  Holding it will disable both TC and Stabilitrak, however Stabilitrak will come back on beyond 35mph.  

SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, newdude said:

 

Did you push the TC button or did you hold it?  Holding it will disable both TC and Stabilitrak, however Stabilitrak will come back on beyond 35mph.  

The only way to get the truck with the squiggly lines behind it on the tach to illuminate on these is press and hold... single touch results in a t/c with a slash through it that lights up in the speedometer.  Doesn't matter anyway... if its stuck in 4wd with the button held and the stabilitrack supposedly disabled it won't move as it's how they have been since the gmt900 trucks. ABS Fuse pull or steering angle sensor disconnect rectifies that.  I think the reason for it is the ABS will go into alarm with any real wheel speed and the truck spinning front and rear tires without moving. If all 4 tires spun it wouldn't know the difference but they won't without a front and rear locker so it will see it as a sensor fault.  Even the GMT800 trucks do that and you get an ABS fault if you are stuck in 4wd and spinning... In 4 lo you can't get any wheel speed so the system allows it to move. .. kinda.

 

This is frustrating for people that work around me as you will power out in a mud hole if you start spinning.  I remember listening to a friend of mine complain her wireline truck powered out and got stuck on a muddy lease road on the way to a well site.  She had the pushed and held the dash button but it still wouldn't spin the tires.  I told her the same thing... next time just pull the abs fuses and you will be able to get out on your own.

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 hours ago, newdude said:

 

Did you push the TC button or did you hold it?  Holding it will disable both TC and Stabilitrak, however Stabilitrak will come back on beyond 35mph.  

 

 

I think in my going back and forth between low and hi range, I must have left the TC on at some point.That is how the truck was acting, so I must have not been paying as much attention as I should have. It just sucks pushing the throttle and it seems it's not even connected to the fuel injection. I'm going to find this ABS fuse......Thank you @SierraHD17.

Icutmetl Enthusiast

Icutmetl

Posted
Posted

Does nobody read their owner’s manual or what?

 

Press the “squiggly line” button to disable Stabilitrak (will allow the rear end to come around, but not excessive tire spin). Hold the button down to turn off both Stabilitrack and traction control- you’ll see a message appear on your DIC. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Traction control stabilitrac combo can save your bacon on wet slippery surface.

 

Traction control will get you stuck in soft/loose conditions like sand/mud/deep snow where it is necessary to spin wheels to get through.

The trick is to remember to shut if off before attempting to pass through deep loose material.

 

Dirtbiker Enthusiast

Dirtbiker

Posted
Posted

Fuse #3 under the hood. Disables antilock but also disables stabilicrap permanently. Just push the button when you start the truck to turn off traction control. Then learn to brake like we did before all these computers. 

SierraHD17 Senior Enthusiast

SierraHD17

Posted
Posted

Some of you should go get your truck stuck after you have pushed until you see the squiggly and see if you can move..  you are going to have a big surprise when you walk home.  This garbage is useless but necessary as people are too lazy to learn how to drive.

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, SierraHD17 said:

Some of you should go get your truck stuck after you have pushed until you see the squiggly and see if you can move..  you are going to have a big surprise when you walk home.  This garbage is useless but necessary as people are too lazy to learn how to drive.

 

 

Low range is the only thing that saved me from winching, supposedly every nannie shuts off, but I'm unsure of that also.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,987
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RSTRICK
    Newest Member
    RSTRICK
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 522 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • calgator73
      Lesson relearned on basic diagnostics...

      By calgator73 · Posted

      Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath.  Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath.  Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement.  Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too...  Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good.  Pop the hood and give a listen. lol  Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.
    • newdude
      OIL CONSUMPTION

      By newdude · Posted

      HD uses the 6.6 gas.   Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal.  1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR.  If more than that, it is considered excessive.   They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J.     Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).   Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.  
    • RSTRICK
      OIL CONSUMPTION

      By RSTRICK · Posted

      I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil.  Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer?   Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]
    • GMCustomerService
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses.    Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally )     57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation   And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...