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Posted (edited)

Replaced my condenser today. 
Simple repair:

1. Ensured all R1234yf has leaked out. New gauges purchased  as the high and low pressure ports are different than 134a.

2. Shut off engine/remove negative battery cable.

3. Use 5/16” nut driver to loosen intake plenum and air cleaner. 

4. Pull red clip up and depress black clip at airflow sensor connector. Remove zip tie clip from hole in air box, place MAF connector out of the way.

5. Depress 2 pcv retainers and remove crankcase piping from plenum.

6. Gently work the plenum to throttle body intake hose loose. Same thing with the hose at the air box.

7. Remove upper and lower air box/filter.

8. Remove 2 bolts holding radiator in place against the core support.

9. Remove the upper air dam (sits on top of condenser/ radiator). Has 4 clips across the top and 2 on each end.

10. Push radiator toward engine. Remove the caps and clips holding the integrated transmission cooler lines in place.

11. Remove bracket bolt on passenger end of condenser hose. Also remove the hose retaining nut releasing both a/c lines.

12. Release the plastic clips holding the condenser to the radiator. 
13. Get another person to hold the radiator toward while you pull the old condenser out.

14. Transfer all air dam pieces to new condenser.

15. Add 2 oz pag oil designed for r1234yf to the condenser 

INSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER.

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Edited by renickh
Grammar
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Everything went back together well. Hooked up my new gauges, pulled a vacuum for 30 min with no leaks, but found a problem. Closed valves installed my new 1/2” LH thread R1234yf can tap and went to hook up my yellow hose to the tap. Nope, yellow hose was RH thread.  I guess the kit accidentally supplied the hose for r134a. An adapter was also supplied, but it was exactly opposite of what was needed. eBay seller should be responding to me soon, but be aware during corona virus next day air options are limited. California heat wave is coming so I guess I am stuck for a few more days.

See attached pics of the tools and materials needed to charge the A/C system.

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Edited by renickh
Grammar
Posted

8oz cans of R1234yf 4 for $120 with free shipping at refrigerant depot 

 

PAG 100 Specifically for R1234yf $15 Napa Also have PAG 46 for other makes

 

Can tap readily available at Napa

 

Gauge set eBay $97 delivered or Napa for $279

 

Vacuum pump harbor freight 

 

Condenser Oreily for $147 with a lifetime warranty

 

 

Posted

Received my 1/2” LH acme female to 1/2” acme male adapter. This allowed the yellow charge hose to connect to the R1234yf can tap. 

R1234yf constantly freezes the can so it took 1.5 hours to load 4 of the 8 oz cans into the system. You have to stop, shut the can tap valve and wait for the can to heat up. 
 

A/c works perfect again. System low side pressure of 55 matched the chart. 

 

Always remember to vacuum down the system for a minimum 30 minutes and leak test the system. The new Freon is way too expensive to waste. 

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  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Great write up, thanks.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • 2 years later...
  • 8 months later...
Posted

Did it actually take all 32oz of R1234yf? The capacity charts I'm finding online show 16oz R1234yf for a '17 5.3L. Planning to replace my leaking condenser this weekend. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Wow that was a great write up. It has probably helped a lot of people out. 
 Can’t believe this isn’t a recall and not just an extension of warranty. I hate gm. Bad lifters, bad torque converters. 
 

but thanks for the write up. 
 

you haven’t replied to the last question from another guy but maybe someone else will know or you will read.

 

but those cans of refrigerant have oil in them as well?  If so is it the correct amount per can to ensure the correct ratio of oil to refrigerant is applied?  Or is there a separate oil application?  

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