Jump to content

2017 condenser replacement with pics

renickh
 Share

Recommended Posts

renickh Enthusiast

renickh

Posted
Posted (edited)

Replaced my condenser today. 
Simple repair:

1. Ensured all R1234yf has leaked out. New gauges purchased  as the high and low pressure ports are different than 134a.

2. Shut off engine/remove negative battery cable.

3. Use 5/16” nut driver to loosen intake plenum and air cleaner. 

4. Pull red clip up and depress black clip at airflow sensor connector. Remove zip tie clip from hole in air box, place MAF connector out of the way.

5. Depress 2 pcv retainers and remove crankcase piping from plenum.

6. Gently work the plenum to throttle body intake hose loose. Same thing with the hose at the air box.

7. Remove upper and lower air box/filter.

8. Remove 2 bolts holding radiator in place against the core support.

9. Remove the upper air dam (sits on top of condenser/ radiator). Has 4 clips across the top and 2 on each end.

10. Push radiator toward engine. Remove the caps and clips holding the integrated transmission cooler lines in place.

11. Remove bracket bolt on passenger end of condenser hose. Also remove the hose retaining nut releasing both a/c lines.

12. Release the plastic clips holding the condenser to the radiator. 
13. Get another person to hold the radiator toward while you pull the old condenser out.

14. Transfer all air dam pieces to new condenser.

15. Add 2 oz pag oil designed for r1234yf to the condenser 

INSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER.

801A437A-DB7F-4598-A0FB-FE98CCCECCF3.jpeg

A92CB4CA-7341-491D-9EFA-A215A307E2E0.jpeg

DDBFD1B5-9607-4F59-B6E7-AB047F3CD8E6.jpeg

CFF964B6-9144-4AE7-BB2D-34AE2402E990.jpeg

F9AA360E-1EE4-4555-A8FC-BAFE5AFD947B.jpeg

6E8617A6-85A8-4617-AC18-691A905AED6E.jpeg

DE0270E7-DEB5-4560-A36A-45C2E4168D12.jpeg

Edited by renickh
Grammar
  • Like 2
renickh Enthusiast

renickh

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Everything went back together well. Hooked up my new gauges, pulled a vacuum for 30 min with no leaks, but found a problem. Closed valves installed my new 1/2” LH thread R1234yf can tap and went to hook up my yellow hose to the tap. Nope, yellow hose was RH thread.  I guess the kit accidentally supplied the hose for r134a. An adapter was also supplied, but it was exactly opposite of what was needed. eBay seller should be responding to me soon, but be aware during corona virus next day air options are limited. California heat wave is coming so I guess I am stuck for a few more days.

See attached pics of the tools and materials needed to charge the A/C system.

spacer.png

65E953CA-F842-45B5-8C4C-78B68CF874BE.jpeg

F37598E2-1AE0-471B-A873-99FD05BBDA80.jpeg

B6CABEFE-638D-44E2-BF2B-EB3F02ABFC88.jpeg

F1EB7392-3C06-484F-9361-7E27631567F4.jpeg

FF84CFF0-2CB8-4CAC-B0DE-C3454E5671FD.jpeg

6C0CAF6E-49D0-46DB-94AC-2B03DC726660.jpeg

6104596D-CA36-4144-8733-A9631A921964.jpeg

Edited by renickh
Grammar
renickh Enthusiast

renickh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

8oz cans of R1234yf 4 for $120 with free shipping at refrigerant depot 

 

PAG 100 Specifically for R1234yf $15 Napa Also have PAG 46 for other makes

 

Can tap readily available at Napa

 

Gauge set eBay $97 delivered or Napa for $279

 

Vacuum pump harbor freight 

 

Condenser Oreily for $147 with a lifetime warranty

 

 

renickh Enthusiast

renickh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Received my 1/2” LH acme female to 1/2” acme male adapter. This allowed the yellow charge hose to connect to the R1234yf can tap. 

R1234yf constantly freezes the can so it took 1.5 hours to load 4 of the 8 oz cans into the system. You have to stop, shut the can tap valve and wait for the can to heat up. 
 

A/c works perfect again. System low side pressure of 55 matched the chart. 

 

Always remember to vacuum down the system for a minimum 30 minutes and leak test the system. The new Freon is way too expensive to waste. 

C85D7BE7-DBB5-4651-A420-98DB229E38BD.jpeg

9F9593BE-F596-45D9-850F-D0100BF45A0C.jpeg

EA006F90-30AC-4C23-8E64-AEBFF4ECEF95.jpeg

D7CFDBB1-4B5A-4DAE-A84B-0C48F8113430.jpeg

EDEE4BB0-C93C-46D4-BEE0-3B15728F760D.jpeg

99D88793-A195-42D4-BEB1-6986935174FF.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
carlosh Enthusiast

carlosh

Posted
Posted

Great write up, thanks.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • 2 years later...
  • 8 months later...
just Matt New Member

just Matt

Posted
Posted

Did it actually take all 32oz of R1234yf? The capacity charts I'm finding online show 16oz R1234yf for a '17 5.3L. Planning to replace my leaking condenser this weekend. 

  • 1 year later...
Sslane New Member

Sslane

Posted
Posted

Wow that was a great write up. It has probably helped a lot of people out. 
 Can’t believe this isn’t a recall and not just an extension of warranty. I hate gm. Bad lifters, bad torque converters. 
 

but thanks for the write up. 
 

you haven’t replied to the last question from another guy but maybe someone else will know or you will read.

 

but those cans of refrigerant have oil in them as well?  If so is it the correct amount per can to ensure the correct ratio of oil to refrigerant is applied?  Or is there a separate oil application?  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...