Jump to content

Rear Window Leak on 2020 3500HD Denali

Pate Services
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 37
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Pate Services
Pate Services

Didn't notice any leaks in the past few rains but it poured today and it leaked in the same spot. Dealer is now ordering a new rear window. 

Pate Services
Pate Services

So today was the day my truck went in to get the second replacement window installed. They informed me they found a gap in the top bead of sealant that was from the last install. Rather than replace t

Stand By
Stand By

There are two issues. Make sure they take care of both. One is the window frame cracking. The other is the bolts for mounting the spoiler not sealing right.

ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted

Mine still leaks after 3 tries. The TSB, new spoiler and new spoiler bolts. Not real sure what to try next. Thought of calling another dealer to see if they've had any success or possibly just trying to seal it myself. Some weatherstripping and silicone caulk may do some good. The frames may get cracks we can't even see that leak. Disappointing for anyone to have this and GM has no reliable repair.

ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Pate Services said:

Dealership says the new replacement window is cracked and leaking same as orginal one. They are ordering a second new window. Total bs quality. 

That's a shame. I wonder how many leak and the owners don't even know? 

shadow gray 2020 hd Enthusiast

shadow gray 2020 hd

Posted
Posted

No doubt that would be a turn off.  Hope they get it straight for you.  Situations like this, would seem gm would be eager to give their customers some compensation for the time involved.  Unfortunately it seems most auto makers have their issues they fail to address in a fair time frame. 

 

Dodge screwed us over on our awd limited durango with a hemi.  Bought it new in 08 with a lifetime powertrain warranty.  Was a recall for the gas filler spout for it pouring gas out when filling about 6 years in.  Made complaints to the servicing dealer several times, and finally they fixed it with the recall.  Last year it developed rust through directly under the filler door.  The only rust anywhere on the vehicle, has been for the most part garage kept and driven in TN where exposure to salted roads is not an issue.  Dodge knows this is an issue that they are to blame for, but they refuse to fix it.  I have seen loads of the same body style with the same rust through from minor to so bad there are large holes.  For that sole reason I took dodge off the table for consideration on our new truck. 

Pate Services Enthusiast

Pate Services

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So today was the day my truck went in to get the second replacement window installed. They informed me they found a gap in the top bead of sealant that was from the last install. Rather than replace the window as planned to correct the flaw they dropped the headliner and pulled the spoiler. They put a thick bead of sealant along the top just like they did in the first repair attempt. Best part is they ran it though their car wash to leak test it and they crushed my passenger side mirror. Truck now needs a whole new side mirror. Unreal.

  • Confused 1
  • Sad 1
Stand By Enthusiast

Stand By

Posted
Posted

I remember years a go when extended cabs became popular, there were some after market vendors that made power window kits for the rear window. I don't think sliders were available for awhile, just like the 3rd door option in 97, finally. Curious what kind of market there would be right now for a power rear window install to alleviate the leak headaches? 

  • 5 years later...
Omega New Member

Omega

Posted
Posted (edited)

Same issue here in Vancouver Washington.  Service Advisor (SA) says he’s NEVER had a GM truck with this problem before.  I live in a Rain Forest and I’m the first one he’s ever seen with this issue.  WTH?  Guess he was hired this morning.  Does anyone have any TSBs related to leaking rear sliding window and/or top center mounted exterior brakelight? Thanks for everyone’s comments regarding roof and window leaks.  I’m trying to get GM to help pay for this repair which has been reported in places like this for years.  Yeah I know; good luck with that.  Many thanks again from a 41-year Air Force Veteran.

Edited by Omega
Added request for appropriate TSBs for these issues

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...