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Silverado 6L80E Transmission Thermostat Delete

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truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Bob2C said:


My fit and finish on my 18 Tahoe’s is not the best. I have owned others in the past and GM’s quality was always subpar in my opinion. The paint on my 18 is probably one of the worst I have seen. Didn’t notice until I spent the time detailing it. There are dust spots embedded throughout the whole car. I have never seen that in a factory paint job and I looked it over before I bought it but missed it. The one thing GM has over all other manufacturers is ride quality. Can’t be beat.


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GM Pickups dont have the ride quality

 

but yeah I used to have a tahoe, thing road like butter. Had ****** for payload but it sure was comfy.

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newdude
newdude

Some more food for thought.   6L80/90.  The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is internal to the transmission.  If you drop the pan, its an integral part of that solenoid control body that i

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

Fluid leaves the transmission via the thermostats top line and is routed to the drivers side radiator tank (hot side on your model) then from there to the AC condensers top half and back to the thermo

rav3
rav3

1st off, let me thank newdude for jumping in here with his great info. I'm glad to see input from someone that sees this stuff first hand & is willing to step up & report what he see's. Your i

Posted Images

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

So.......

 

I screwed up.

 

When I did the mod I must not have seated that PITA snap ring in the groove good enough. Held for a couple mile trip. On the return trip I heard it let go. Smoke on the way home as the trans pumped its fluid to the Y pipe. Didn't run like this long, was close to home, prob less than 1/8th mile.

 

Anyway, I somehow managed to find the plunger, the thermo pill, and the snap ring (by grace of God) in the dark. However, I did not find the spring (big surprise).

 

I put the plunger back in the housing and put the snap ring on (hopefully it stays in this time). The pill is out and obviously the spring is out as well.

 

Any guesses on how the truck will operate like this? Not sure where I can find another spring like that nor even a damn trans thermo. I might have to buy that aftermarket doo-dad just to fix my F up.

 

Any thoughts would be appriciated.

 

Thanks.

Tucker Enthusiast

Tucker

Posted
Posted (edited)

Check the Youtube video where the guy tapped and plugged the Tstat valve body. Probably your cheapest option at this point. Just search 6l80e T-stat delete on Youtube. 

 

The way it is right now I think the fluid will mainly be going thru the trans T-stat valve body and back to the transmission and  mostly bypassing the trans oil cooler.

Edited by Tucker
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  • Like 1
rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, Epsilon Plus said:

So.......

 

I screwed up.

 

When I did the mod I must not have seated that PITA snap ring in the groove good enough. Held for a couple mile trip. On the return trip I heard it let go. Smoke on the way home as the trans pumped its fluid to the Y pipe. Didn't run like this long, was close to home, prob less than 1/8th mile.

 

Anyway, I somehow managed to find the plunger, the thermo pill, and the snap ring (by grace of God) in the dark. However, I did not find the spring (big surprise).

 

I put the plunger back in the housing and put the snap ring on (hopefully it stays in this time). The pill is out and obviously the spring is out as well.

 

Any guesses on how the truck will operate like this? Not sure where I can find another spring like that nor even a damn trans thermo. I might have to buy that aftermarket doo-dad just to fix my F up.

 

Any thoughts would be appriciated.

 

Thanks.

Sorry about that. I was worried about the C-clip as well. Below is the video as mentioned below. However, I would reach out to him to see if he would send you the parts. Or just go down to auto store & get a couple springs as close to size in the unit.

Aaron Hines is his name. I'd go to one of his latest videos & send him a comment requesting help. Good luck

 

https://youtu.be/roqDBeR69ac

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the replies.

 

I ended up doing the tap/plug method. Lost about 5qts of ATF. Put it all back and ran it through it's paces fairly hard and all far it's staying together.

 

Just praying that lame ass snap ring holding all that destruction back will hold in that tiny groove this time.

 

Hoping it will hold until a better fix of putting the LSx Innovations block on there that has -6AN out. Then, I'll just run braided lines to a good external stacked plate cooler maybe even with a thermo switch fan. It's what I had on my 2006 GTO and that had a 4,500 stall and was tortured in the same 115+ ambient temps.

 

Cheers.

14LTZ-1LZ Enthusiast

14LTZ-1LZ

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Epsilon Plus said:

So.......

 

I screwed up.

 

When I did the mod I must not have seated that PITA snap ring in the groove good enough. Held for a couple mile trip. On the return trip I heard it let go. Smoke on the way home as the trans pumped its fluid to the Y pipe. Didn't run like this long, was close to home, prob less than 1/8th mile.

 

Anyway, I somehow managed to find the plunger, the thermo pill, and the snap ring (by grace of God) in the dark. However, I did not find the spring (big surprise).

 

I put the plunger back in the housing and put the snap ring on (hopefully it stays in this time). The pill is out and obviously the spring is out as well.

 

Any guesses on how the truck will operate like this? Not sure where I can find another spring like that nor even a damn trans thermo. I might have to buy that aftermarket doo-dad just to fix my F up.

 

Any thoughts would be appriciated.

 

Thanks.

https://globaltransmissionparts.com/6l80-6l90-sure-cool-cooler-flow-system-stl010/

 

Check this out.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Epsilon Plus said:

 

 

Just praying that lame ass snap ring holding all that destruction back will hold in that tiny groove this time.

 

 

Snap rings are a die stamped part. On inspection you will note a rounded edge on one side and a square edge on the other. 

In this application the square sharp edge goes UP. The square edge ALWAYS faces away from the load so that the load is pushing the squared edge into the groove. The snap ring does exactly what it is told to do. :) 

Locom0tive Enthusiast

Locom0tive

Posted
Posted

So basically opposite of what this diagram is saying? Would this diagram be a case of proprietary fittings (a la BMW)?

8ff515e9c09ef9b38d75ca0be64dbbbf.jpg

  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, Locom0tive said:

So basically opposite of what this diagram is saying? Would this diagram be a case of proprietary fittings (a la BMW)?

 

Well not the way I was remembering but I'd trust TruArc before me. 

That's fine it's in discussion now. 

I corrected the text above.

Thanks for the correction. ?

 

Fact is, I'm glad I was wrong. There seems to be an idea I will not tolerate being disagreed with.

What I have said is I will not tolerate being corrected INCORRECTLY

:crackup:

 

Thanks. Now We are sure he will get it right now that he knows to look for it. 

 

 

Locom0tive Enthusiast

Locom0tive

Posted
Posted

Heh not trying to be argumentative, thanks for clarifying. I’ve come across many proprietary fittings (that look exactly like standard fittings) for foreign makers before so I always check for clarity beforehand. [emoji106]

 

  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Locom0tive said:

Heh not trying to be argumentative, thanks for clarifying. I’ve come across many proprietary fittings (that look exactly like standard fittings) for foreign makers before so I always check for clarity beforehand. emoji106.png

 

Didn't think you were but could not pass on the opportunity provided to make a point that needed making. Rep matters. 

You did good and the correction was done in kindness. No issues here. Bless you. I can't learn if I'm always right, right? 

:rollin:

  • Like 1
Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Snap rings are a die stamped part. On inspection you will note a rounded edge on one side and a square edge on the other. 

In this application the square sharp edge goes UP. The square edge ALWAYS faces away from the load so that the load is pushing the squared edge into the groove. The snap ring does exactly what it is told to do. :) 

 

Ruh-oh. Well hopefully I put it in right. I took it for a long trip today. Was probably out 2+ hours and it all held together. All manner of gears and speeds up to 75. Half the trip the trans liked to sit around 178 (took a lot of parking lot waiting for the shopping wife to get there). By the end of the trip it had finally got to 190. Fans kicked on and it dropped to 186. This was non-stop after 2+ hours of idle to full freeway back to stop and go, to idle. Never even got to the 192 open point of the OEM thermostat. It was 113F out today too, so theres that. I'll be using my HP Tuners soon to adjust the fans down and add a lower coolant thermo to help (probably 174F).

 

One thing to note is that orginally, I did not orient the plug in any particular fasion. You'll notice at has a sort of half moon knob on the top. This orients with passages in the plug. I put that plug in randomly. I wonder if the passages weren't lined up right, and the pressure built too high and shot everything out.

 

When I put it back together, I made sure to align those passages in the now gutted plug with the in/out orifices in the block.

 

Either way, I still don't trust it. I'll be looking to add a non thermostat coolant line block with -6 AN out to make my own lines with in the future.

Edited by Epsilon Plus
  • Like 2
Chev85 Enthusiast

Chev85

Posted
Posted

I ended up just buying the kit and it went in nice and seemed well made.  I was sold on that it will still bypass the cooler due to crushed line or clog.  Figured the tapped/screwed way wouldn't and maybe the flipped pill might.  Not even sure it's a major deal.  Never seen a clogged or crimped line before.  Trans temps for me on even hard runs on 95 degree days stays around 165-ish at most.

image.png.ea63381a3cfcadd3c5bdbd3ff2f606cd.png

  • Like 3
Bob2C Enthusiast

Bob2C

Posted
Posted

So first trip pulling a 30ft travel trailer weighing approx 5k lbs plus all our crap. Used tow/haul mode and the 5.3 with 6l80 pulled beautifully. Outside temp was around 90. Transmission on highway traveling 65MPH was between 194 and 199. Most of the drive was relatively flat with some hills nothing major. After I exited the highway the temp did get to 201 on local roads that were winding with inclines and descents. Going down hills damn this trans really down shifts to hold you back. On the downshifts it will get to around 4500 RPM and several of those is where I noticed the temp spike. I do have the max tow package so I’m guessing that helps a bit. All in all I’m happy with the way it tows. Pulled 200 miles today. Going another 300 Wednesday. I got 12MPG from start to finish.


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