Silverado 6L80E Transmission Thermostat Delete

[flyingfool]

no trans stat, and a 175 engine stat,  gives me  an operating range of 135-150.. i will be adding a trans cooler and the deep trans pan off the ss camaro next, because i will be towing a camper in a few months, i'm curious what those numbers will yield.

 

if you do hard driving and racing on the street or track,  the temp easily climb up to 185-190 with the delete, but if you drive like a normal person  you should operate at 145 all day long

Edited September 7, 2020 by flyingfool

[Grumpy Bear]

9 hours ago, Ltz4 me? said:

Ok, so how much did you drop extra b/c of the 175deg water stat change in addition to the pill flip?

I wonder with the new synthetic fluid upgrade as the latest TSB if 180-200 is less of a problem in some way due to if let's say this fluid can withstand a higher temp than the standard transmission fluid?

What exactly are you looking for?   What are you afraid is going to happen?  

I think the science has been answered already.

Repeatedly. 

[Ltz4 me?]

Thought I seen on a different post someone talking about the operating temperature of different fluids for tranny's and I like to gather as much info as possible before I make a decision.

[Grumpy Bear]

 

There are no straight polyol esters but there are some polyalphaolefin/polyol ester blends. Red Line D6 is one. A good one.

 

The 'continuous' operating temperature would be between the two so somewhere between 200 F and 225 F ish. That is the ONLY range anyone should even consider. Doesn't matter that it will take more over a short period.

 

Your factory fill is a Group III mineral oil. Mobil 1 ditto. Yes Group III will take a bit more than the Group II; the mineral oil shown will take but a few degrees, not multiples of 10's higher. Perhaps 180 F ish. 

 

Note in the upper chart that varnish starts to form at 220 F. (Mineral oils) Seals start to harden at 240 F. Just how close to failure would you like to operate at? The seals don't care what fluid is in it. 

 

 

[Ltz4 me?]

Very good info there

 

Would you say the latest TSB fluid ( synthetic Mobil one blue label is comparable to what?)

I'm definitely flipping the pill, but I like to learn the why I'm doing something and how it works before I just jump at it, thanks Matt

[Grumpy Bear]

On 9/3/2020 at 10:00 AM, Ltz4 me? said:

How can I tell if I have this transmission?

Will it stop erratic shifting if I've already deleted afm with a mpg tune?

Thanks fellas

I certainly appreciate then need to know before jumping how deep the water might be. So lets start over.

 

Back to your original post. I offered this companies product before but here is the tech on it. And the exact product.

 

https://www.lubegard.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/GM-8-speed-shudder-flyer_all_sizes.pdf

 

As far as what the Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP transmission fluid is.....I have no idea. It's a newer fluid I haven't any experience with nor knowledge of bfeyond a post on BITOG......

 

I seems the friction modifier package was adjusted in an otherwise regular DEXRON HP ATF. Meaning the base oil is still what it always was. 

 

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/atf-solvesgm-transmission-shudder-issues.303084/

 

That the case cooling is to be treated as if it were worst case. Keep it under 180 F. The shudder is a separate issue. Change fluid to the new or Lubegard. 

 

At this point I have nothing left to offer you. Thanks for the dance. 

 

 

 

 

[Madcow2020]

Does anyone know the size of the hard lines for the transmission?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[flyingfool]

i guess 3/8" line

[Grumpy Bear]

On 7/30/2020 at 2:32 PM, rav3 said:

@Grumpy Bear     thanks for the link. I looked at it & wonder how does this device for $50 work any differently than just reversing the internals of the thermostat to by pass the unit? Looks like it has a spring loaded ball check valve. Just curious...

 

This video shows a simple way to "bypass" the transmission thermostat.

https://youtu.be/rYP6CMgfbwU

The kit has an internal 'safety' bypass should the cooler or cooler line plug. No such safety when using the 'flip' or 'plug' methods. 

[IndyRob K.]

On 8/9/2020 at 8:27 AM, rav3 said:

Sorry about that. I was worried about the C-clip as well. Below is the video as mentioned below. However, I would reach out to him to see if he would send you the parts. Or just go down to auto store & get a couple springs as close to size in the unit.

Aaron Hines is his name. I'd go to one of his latest videos & send him a comment requesting help. Good luck

 

https://youtu.be/roqDBeR69ac

Does anyone know of a video of this "pill swap"  The only thing I have ever "tapped" was a woman. 

[Grumpy Bear]

6 hours ago, IndyRob K. said:

Does anyone know of a video of this "pill swap"  The only thing I have ever "tapped" was a woman. 

That's so sad. You've never tapped a keg? 

 

 

Someone else can have a turn Googling these video's  and post them here

After a dozen or so, I'm done

Edited December 1, 2020 by Grumpy Bear

[IndyRob K.]

3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

That's so sad. You've never tapped a keg? 

 

 

Someone else can have a turn Googling these video's  and post them here

After a dozen or so, I'm done

I'm a Rum drinker   I did google first all I could come up with was the tap method. Maybe  I should look harder?

 

 

 

 

Edited December 1, 2020 by IndyRob K.

[14burrito]

10 hours ago, IndyRob K. said:

I'm a Rum drinker   I did google first all I could come up with was the tap method. Maybe  I should look harder?

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 1, 2020 by 14burrito

[IndyRob K.]

2 hours ago, 14burrito said:

 

Thanks 14Burrito !

[newdude]

On 9/7/2020 at 10:00 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

 

There are no straight polyol esters but there are some polyalphaolefin/polyol ester blends. Red Line D6 is one. A good one.

 

The 'continuous' operating temperature would be between the two so somewhere between 200 F and 225 F ish. That is the ONLY range anyone should even consider. Doesn't matter that it will take more over a short period.

 

Your factory fill is a Group III mineral oil. Mobil 1 ditto. Yes Group III will take a bit more than the Group II; the mineral oil shown will take but a few degrees, not multiples of 10's higher. Perhaps 180 F ish. 

 

Note in the upper chart that varnish starts to form at 220 F. (Mineral oils) Seals start to harden at 240 F. Just how close to failure would you like to operate at? The seals don't care what fluid is in it. 

 

 

 

 

 

Bringing up the dead here but it seems the OEMs and their maintenance charts are a bunch of phooey if you look at the ATF performance temp charts.  

 

GM front drives and now most of the rear drive applications have some sort of thermostat control on them.  It seems fluid suicide running them on the edge like that.  Perhaps GM needs to lower the opening temperature on them?  130-150F?