Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, BlaineBug said:

 

Yes, one part number is an AD Delco part number and the other is a General Motors part number, it's the same thermostat, but if you search them individually and uniquely on eBay, you'll see that the prices vary by about double depending on which one you use as your search term!

I kind of see what you mean. But use the filter in ebay and select brands of ACDelco, AC Delco, GM, General Motors, and OEM and you will see close to the same results for both. There seem to be several of aftermarket thermostats being marketed under the GM part number and they are cheaper. But if you search genuine brand ones, you end up with very similar results. Certain things I will use aftermarket but after getting bit using an aftermarket coolant thermostat, that is another added to the list that I will only use the OEM part or OEM alternative for replacement.

Posted
7 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

I kind of see what you mean. But use the filter in ebay and select brands of ACDelco, AC Delco, GM, General Motors, and OEM and you will see close to the same results for both. There seem to be several of aftermarket thermostats being marketed under the GM part number and they are cheaper. But if you search genuine brand ones, you end up with very similar results. Certain things I will use aftermarket but after getting bit using an aftermarket coolant thermostat, that is another added to the list that I will only use the OEM part or OEM alternative for replacement.

 

The one I ordered appeared to have all of the GM markings on the thermostat housing including the GM box and packaging.  I'll inspect and post pictures when it arrives.

  • Like 1
Posted

There were a handful of OEM at the lower price but most of them were more. You still can definitely can find good bargains on eBay.

Posted
31 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

There were a handful of OEM at the lower price but most of them were more. You still can definitely can find good bargains on eBay.

As an ebay seller myself that's typically my go-to.  I don't use Amazon much, considering that I'm not a prime member, it's much more difficult to find "free shipping" as with Amazon you have an order minimum to achieve that.  On eBay I can buy items that are just a few dollars and search for free shipping.  It's a different approach - most of Amazon is fulfilled by Amazon, whereas ebay is ALL seller fulfilled.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

2 hours ago, BlaineBug said:

 

The one I ordered appeared to have all of the GM markings on the thermostat housing including the GM box and packaging.  I'll inspect and post pictures when it arrives.

 

1 hour ago, mikeyk101 said:

There were a handful of OEM at the lower price but most of them were more. You still can definitely can find good bargains on eBay.

 

For things like this I use Rock Auto and am sure of the parts origin.  Often cheaper than Ebay. When it isn't....I still by RA. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, Grumpy Bear said:

 

 

 

For things like this I use Rock Auto and am sure of the parts origin.  Often cheaper than Ebay. When it isn't....I still by RA. 

I've had a couple of Salty experiences with Rock Auto.  You also have to be careful of lining up warehouses otherwise you can potentially get charged for shipping multiple times.  I've had the wrong parts delivered and/or incorrectly advertised online, where I had to buy them locally when everything was already torn down.  And then when requesting a refund on a "packaged deal" (brake jobs, specifically) they give you peanuts for the parts that didn't work.

There are other PAIN IN THE ARSE stories about Rock Auto as well, and plenty of positive ones as well.

Posted
2 minutes ago, BlaineBug said:

I've had a couple of Salty experiences with Rock Auto.  You also have to be careful of lining up warehouses otherwise you can potentially get charged for shipping multiple times.  I've had the wrong parts delivered and/or incorrectly advertised online, where I had to buy them locally when everything was already torn down.  And then when requesting a refund on a "packaged deal" (brake jobs, specifically) they give you peanuts for the parts that didn't work.

There are other PAIN IN THE ARSE stories about Rock Auto as well, and plenty of positive ones as well.

 

I've had one experience of the wrong part packaged in the right box. They sent me the right part on a single call and ate the shipping. No return either. They sacrificed the part to make me happy. Been using them for years now. I've even had them toss in parts for free. Like a gasket I didn't know I needed. My brother has used them for as long as they have been around. Has some stories of the early days that will raise doubts but the longer they ran the better they got. 

 

Use it or don't. I was just saying.......

Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

I've had one experience of the wrong part packaged in the right box. They sent me the right part on a single call and ate the shipping. No return either. They sacrificed the part to make me happy. Been using them for years now. I've even had them toss in parts for free. Like a gasket I didn't know I needed. My brother has used them for as long as they have been around. Has some stories of the early days that will raise doubts but the longer they ran the better they got. 

 

Use it or don't. I was just saying.......

 

When it comes to a brake job, I can't wait for them to ship, especially if I do not want to reassemble everything with the old parts.  That's the issue, really, the waiting for the items to arrive, especially considering you thought everything was ready to go when the original package arrived.

With that said about 8 years ago I was doing a power steering pump (hydroboost with brakes as well) for a friend's Chevrolet Express 3500 van.  Advance Auto Parts shipped me a CORE RETURN (as in caked with oil and grease!) as the NEW power steering pump.  I'm not sure how in the heck that happens, and although I returned it at the store, I hope they didn't think I was scamming them!

Edited by BlaineBug
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

Gonna pop them in here for everyone's reference.  6 speed only just to keep things simple.  

 

2014-2018 4.3 V6/6L80:  Transmission cooler in right radiator tank, lines flow from transmission to cooler, cooler to transmission.  V6 are equipped with the TBV.

 

4.32014-2019.jpg.072cee2119d7b086676be2ae38a530c4.jpg

 

2014-early 2016 5.3/6L80 and 2014-2015 6.2/6L80 (yes, these exist):  2014-early 2016 transmission cooler setup had a cooler in the left tank of the radiator, and then the aux cooler is a part of the condenser assembly aka the Combi-Cooler. 

 

Flow would be transmission to the left lower inlet at the left radiator tank cooler, out of the top to the aux cooler (via pipe #14 below), then aux back to the transmission (via pipe #5 below).  Equipped with TBV. 

 

If the TBV is "flipped" or SureCool, these year trucks, the transmission cooling loop would operate like all the 2013 and prior 1500s where the flow was constant all the time as they had no TBV.

 

5.32014-early2016.thumb.jpg.8d60114d69685bc40317866631cfbd65.jpg

 

 

Late 2016-2019 5.3/6L80 "Limited/LD" (still K2XX platform):  GM ditched the transmission cooler in the left tank of the radiator.  The aux cooler on the condenser (the Combi-Cooler) is now the ONLY cooler brick for the transmission. 

 

Equipped with TBV.  I'm 99% sure flow is transmission to the left side of the cooler (via pipe #15 below) and then from the cooler back to the transmission (via pipe #6 below).

 

late2016-2019classic.jpg.8828f6169ffd6cd57253f0e49b3fcb0e.jpg

 

Side note on these trucks.  When bypassed (flip or SureCool) these ones actually keep pretty cool.  When I had mine, on a hot summer day making WOT pulls I struggled to see over 165F.  Winter time however, it keeps TOO cool and would actually LOSE temperature.  It'd get to like 105-110F and when cruising at highway speeds it would drop to 95-99F.  Shifts feeel like a transmission right after a cold start.  I installed the GM lower temp TBV and it drastically improved temps for the winter and improved shifts.  

 

Question @newdude. Rock Auto list radiator GM part #21902 as the unit used for the 4.3 V6 with NHT. A bit thicker. 1.1" instead of the non-NHT 7/8". You didn't speak to the NHT V6. Can you confirm this RPO and part# and line routing? PLEASE 🤩

 

More Information for GM GENUINE 21902 (rockauto.com) 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted
2 minutes ago, BlaineBug said:

 

When it comes to a brake job, I can't wait for them to ship, especially if I do not want to reassemble everything with the old parts.  That's the issue, really, the waiting for the items to arrive, especially considering you thought everything was ready to go when the original package arrived.

With that said about 8 years ago I was doing a power steering pump (hydroboost with brakes as well) for a friend's Chevrolet Express 3500 van.  Advance Auto Parts shipped me a CORE RETURN (as in caked with oil and grease!) as the NEW power steering pump.  I'm not sure how in the heck that happens, and although I returned it at the store, I hope they didn't think I was scamming them!

 

Years ago I changed 6 starters on a Mustang I6 bought with a lifetime warranty from Advanced. Last one I took back I bounced off the counter. We had a relationship by now. :crackup:He asked me what I was so upset about considering the replacements were free. I said, "No one should be so good at this that it can be done in 15 minutes in the snow". Book time was almost two hours. Three bolt starting requires allot of disassembly to reach that top bolt. 

 

Anyway, I took the last rebuilt apart myself. Internal relay contacts were not squared up even close. Fixed that and sent the car to the wrecker about 8 years latter with that starter in it. 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Years ago I changed 6 starters on a Mustang I6 bought with a lifetime warranty from Advanced. Last one I took back I bounced off the counter. We had a relationship by now. :crackup:He asked me what I was so upset about considering the replacements were free. I said, "No one should be so good at this that it can be done in 15 minutes in the snow". Book time was almost two hours. Three bolt starting requires allot of disassembly to reach that top bolt. 

 

Anyway, I took the last rebuilt apart myself. Internal relay contacts were not squared up even close. Fixed that and sent the car to the wrecker about 8 years latter with that starter in it. 

 

Their rebuilds are junk, man.  Had issue with their starters and alternators too.  JUNK!

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/26/2023 at 1:23 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Question @newdude. Rock Auto list radiator GM part #21902 as the unit used for the 4.3 V6 with NHT. A bit thicker. 1.1" instead of the non-NHT 7/8". You didn't speak to the NHT V6. Can you confirm this RPO and part# and line routing? PLEASE 🤩

 

More Information for GM GENUINE 21902 (rockauto.com) 

 

 

There wasn't an NHT option for V6.  NHT max trailer was only 5.3 and 6.2 for the K2 pickups.  

 

That 21902 wouldn't work because the transmission cooler will flow on the left side of the radiator, engine oil on the right side.  The V6 radiators have engine oil on the left and transmission on the right.  Radiator 84186716/21895 is the only radiator that fits the V6.  

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...