Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Great info on this thread.  I lost my entire trailer tire pressure program. Can't get to first base with it.  Dealer can't figure it out either.  This was after a system upgrade was installed.  Any ideas as to why I lost the whole shebang??

Posted
On 3/21/2021 at 5:31 PM, Mbower2020 said:

Here are some pics.

DSCN3180.JPG

DSCN3181.JPG

Mike I just tried to relocate my module. I made up a cable 22 gauge twisted shielded. I made up the ends and ran it under my trailer. I had the module 16 feet away from the furthest tire. I ran 22 gauge 2 pair twisted shielded about 53 feet long. I tried to relocated the module under the trailer and the truck didn't seem to recognize a receiver was present. I rang out the cable and its all good. I also put the receiver back on the truck and it recognizes it?  I ran out of time so next week I plan on taking a voltage reading as the only thing different is you had 20 gauge power wire.  I might try that also.  I'll let everyone know what's happening.

 

Chuck K

Posted
On 5/13/2021 at 10:35 AM, whtnukl said:

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread for a lot of great info.  What I learned is that for my 20' dual axle box trailer, I may be able to get away with just moving the receiver on the truck.  I attached a length of 1" wide steel bar to a bracket behind the license plate and moved the receiver to where you see it in the below photo.  I was able to do this using the existing service loop and connector, so no need to add an extra length of cable.  Test so far have shown that this method works great.  We'll see how well it works in the rain.  It's somewhat protected by the spare tire, so I don't anticipate any failures.  Then again, we don't get much rain here in SoCal.

 

 

IMG_3839.thumb.jpg.ef9a6e1523d693d8a233ca48ceba6aef.jpgThanks

I’m curious if this is still working well for you?  My rear most axle on our TT is just barely outside 23’ and it seems your solution is the easiest/best option. 

Posted
On 5/16/2021 at 3:06 PM, Gecko50 said:

Mike I just tried to relocate my module. I made up a cable 22 gauge twisted shielded. I made up the ends and ran it under my trailer. I had the module 16 feet away from the furthest tire. I ran 22 gauge 2 pair twisted shielded about 53 feet long. I tried to relocated the module under the trailer and the truck didn't seem to recognize a receiver was present. I rang out the cable and its all good. I also put the receiver back on the truck and it recognizes it?  I ran out of time so next week I plan on taking a voltage reading as the only thing different is you had 20 gauge power wire.  I might try that also.  I'll let everyone know what's happening.

 

Chuck K

 Ok a little ketchup, I ran a 18 gauge pair of red / black cable. I intercepted the 22 gauge cable about 6 inches from the ends. I also verified the cable was getting power to the end. It now powers up the TMPS and it was recognized the TMPS receiver.  I had the receiver on the ground adjacent to the wall of the trailer. I got 1 tire to see in the truck. The others I was not able to get the truck to see it. I stopped and put things away for now. I am waiting for a Deusch military bulk head connector to use in the bed of the truck next to the trailer / cam plugs. When I get that I will put it all together. I'll take the trailer for a rid to wake up all the tire sensors. Then again try to get the truck to recognize the tire sensor.

 

Chuck

 

On a second note, I understand someone had a problem that the tire blew out before the TMPS monitor in the truck responded. A passerby flagged down the driver as the tire was shredded and nothing was left but rim? Any one check how long or the response time from a tire problem to the dash display?

Posted

Gecko, just read your post.  Looks like you got the power and signal end taken care of.   As for communications to each tire make sure the face of the module is facing the wheels.  From what I read this works by line of sight.  I will post some instillation pictures today of how my rig is set up.   

 

Just for notes here on the forum I made another extension cable for my truck so I don't have to keep climbing under the truck to plug in the TPMS sensor to the connector behind the license plate.   So now I have 2 jumper cables between the truck and the module which is mounted the trailer permanently   Total length around 43'.   Been working flawlessly.  

 

As for the blown tire I think the sensors transmit every 30 seconds or if it detects a significant pressure change.  Not sure what the circumstances were but if normal tire pressure is around 95 or above as the tire heats you cap off at 102.  After that you are in the dark as far as pressure goes.  At that point I monitor temperature.  Usually my tires are within 5-10 degrees of each other.  If I was to see something outside of that range I know I have a issue.  If it is not reporting the truck should pick up on that.    

Posted

Here are some pics of how I set up my trailer.  I have no longer experienced any connection issues.  

#183 Module mounted center of trailer @ 15' from furthest tire angled slightly downward

#184 pic from behind last axle

#184 short extension from original module location behind license plate, this connects to extension I made for new module location on trailer.  

 

 

DSCN3183.JPG

DSCN3184_LI.jpg

DSCN3185_LI.jpg

Posted

To Sher715:  Please excuse the late reply.  I didn't get a notice about your question.  It's still working great for me.  Then again, I don't have a lot of miles on it.  I've towed the trailer twice since making the mod and it worked as designed both times.  If you're having issues, it's an easy mod and worth a try.

Posted
11 minutes ago, whtnukl said:

To Sher715:  Please excuse the late reply.  I didn't get a notice about your question.  It's still working great for me.  Then again, I don't have a lot of miles on it.  I've towed the trailer twice since making the mod and it worked as designed both times.  If you're having issues, it's an easy mod and worth a try.

Thanks!  It’s going to be on my list of things to do. Need to but the sensors and have them mounted as well. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Mike,

I have been searching Amazon for the parts. Would it be possible to get the part numbers for the shielded wire? And what was the diameter of the loom you used? I love this forum. I used info to extend my trailer camera wiring and all worked well, now to this one.

Thanks.

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I traded my 2020 3500 GMC for a 2021, it was no different as far as the signal went. i just went on a long trip. before i went I moved the antenna to the outside of the license plate to see if that helped. It did. I have a tri axle Toy Hauler and before moving the antenna i was constantly getting messages for loss of signal on the rear wheels & also the center axle. I now will get a message for the rear wheels abut once an hour which is much more tolerable.

Posted
52 minutes ago, Andrew Best said:

I moved the antenna to the outside of the license plate to see if that helped. It did. 

 

Did you move the entire module or just the antenna? I thought that the module didn't really have an external antenna. 

Posted
On 8/31/2021 at 2:08 PM, ShogunKC said:

 

Did you move the entire module or just the antenna? I thought that the module didn't really have an external antenna. 

 

On 8/31/2021 at 2:08 PM, ShogunKC said:

 

Did you move the entire module or just the antenna? I thought that the module didn't really have an external antenna. 

 

Posted

I moved what I believed to be the antenna. There are two that clip on a m0unting plate behind the license plate on one bracket. The smaller one I believe is for the keyless remote & the larger one is for the sensors. I just disconnected it from the bracket and used one of my tag bolts to connect outside the tag temporarily. There was enough slack to do so. I can take a photo latter today and post if you would like.

Posted
5 hours ago, Andrew Best said:

I moved what I believed to be the antenna. There are two that clip on a m0unting plate behind the license plate on one bracket. The smaller one I believe is for the keyless remote & the larger one is for the sensors. I just disconnected it from the bracket and used one of my tag bolts to connect outside the tag temporarily. There was enough slack to do so. I can take a photo latter today and post if you would like.

Yes there are 2 modules. The thin one with a clip on each end is for the keyless entry. The larger rectangular one is the TMPS trailer system. I did orient the module under my trailer so it faces the 3 axle tires, under the trailer. I am no more than 12 feet from the box to the furthest tire. I am not finished yet but maybe this weekend. I also did orient the module to face. The same way it was on the truck in case it had a internal antenna.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...