Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
13 hours ago, flyingfool said:

i found it interesting and have no idea why, but by shifting to neutral  on a 1500 truck , I actually gained more "rear brake bias" durring a stop. I wish i knew more about the brake proportioning system on these truck, 'cause the nose dive brake effect is not ideal. i wish it could be modified somehow

When you hit the brakes the torque converter clutch unlocks and the truck is now pushing the motor adding braking to the back wheels (2wd) or all four (4wd). The speed logic in the TCM will downshift to the gear for the speed on it's own as if you were coasting to a stop. At some point below about 10 mph your so far below the converters minimum coupling speed it no longer matters. 

 

Some states, like the one I live in, there is actually a law against being out of gear while in traffic. Just say' n. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

that's what i would think, but coasting to stop, usually the idle speed is about 800-1000 rpm so it still has a push your braking against. i just cant figure why the brake bias changes when in neutral

Edited by flyingfool
Posted
18 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

that's what i would think, but coasting to stop, usually the idle speed is about 800-1000 rpm so it still has a push your braking against. i just cant figure why the brake bias changes when in neutral

That is strange. Mine idles at 535 rpm. My converter stalls at 1635 and starts to couple around 750-800 rpm. 

Posted
13 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

YIKES, I'm only 30K from issues? 

?

That's less than a year away!

As clean as you keep your fluid Marty, I doubt it.  Mine is almost there too.

1 hour ago, flyingfool said:

i would like to find out more info on this, is there a gm tech bulitin  or tech documentation?

 

not even considering panic stop but just regular daily stop and go action,  neutral shifting makes the truck feel effortless entering the stop and more relaxing, then when in  Drive and having the engine pushing the driveline

Never seen anything about it or how it works save for that explanation given to me once.  Just stumbled across it while exploring the Tech-2.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, swathdiver said:

As clean as you keep your fluid Marty, I doubt it.  Mine is almost there too.

Never seen anything about it or how it works save for that explanation given to me once.  Just stumbled across it while exploring the Tech-2.

Sup bud, read most of you comments seem like you have great knowledge with these trucks. 
I have a 17 1500, with a 4.3 sadly. My gear ratio is 3.23. With a 6speed transmission.  I’m planning on lifting it to 9” and slapping on some 37s. What gear ratio do you recommend to keep similar rpms to stock. Yes I know 37s with a v6 is stupid but I just love that look. 

Posted
19 minutes ago, Alexmorales0850 said:

Sup bud, read most of you comments seem like you have great knowledge with these trucks. 
I have a 17 1500, with a 4.3 sadly. My gear ratio is 3.23. With a 6speed transmission.  I’m planning on lifting it to 9” and slapping on some 37s. What gear ratio do you recommend to keep similar rpms to stock. Yes I know 37s with a v6 is stupid but I just love that look. 

4.10 and 37's = 31 (stock) and 3.23. 

4.30 would be close to a 3.42

4.56 about the same as 3.73

4.88 close to 4.10

If you run in M5 on your current 31's that will give you a feel for rpm in top gear with the 4.10 on 31 or 4.88 on 37.

Posted
17 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

4.10 and 37's = 31 (stock) and 3.23. 

4.30 would be close to a 3.42

4.56 about the same as 3.73

4.88 close to 4.10

If you run in M5 on your current 31's that will give you a feel for rpm in top gear with the 4.10 on 31 or 4.88 on 37.

Would this also be same for my truck? 2014 Silverado 5.3 2wd with 3.42 right now already lifted on 37s though but looking to regear soon but I drive on the highway a lot so would 4.10 be the best?

Posted
1 minute ago, Frankielozano214 said:

Would this also be same for my truck? 2014 Silverado 5.3 2wd with 3.42 right now already lifted on 37s though but looking to regear soon but I drive on the highway a lot so would 4.10 be the best?

If you wish to keep the 3.42 to stock relationship; then 4.30. There is a small fly in the ointment however. Roll out distance is NOT Pi of the diameter and this reference treats it as if it were. That is a 31" tire will have a rollout of something less but how much? Some places like Tire Rack will have that information for a specific tire. 

 

That said even if off by an inch or so the rpm will be pretty darn close for the ratios I've given. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Use a rpm/gear ratio calculator to see where your RPM's will end up.

 

I think with 4.10's on those size tires you'd be around 1750-1800rpm at 70mph.

 

Right now it's probably around 1500 at 70mph if I had to guess.

 

 

Posted
54 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

4.10 and 37's = 31 (stock) and 3.23. 

4.30 would be close to a 3.42

4.56 about the same as 3.73

4.88 close to 4.10

If you run in M5 on your current 31's that will give you a feel for rpm in top gear with the 4.10 on 31 or 4.88 on 37.

Great info brother. Something I forgot to ask. How will the truck perform with overdrive on those gears. 

Posted
25 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Use a rpm/gear ratio calculator to see where your RPM's will end up.

 

I think with 4.10's on those size tires you'd be around 1750-1800rpm at 70mph.

 

Right now it's probably around 1500 at 70mph if I had to guess.

 

 

I’d have to drive it to be sure. But it sounds about right. Just worried about how re gearing will affect overdrive 

Posted
37 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

If you wish to keep the 3.42 to stock relationship; then 4.30. There is a small fly in the ointment however. Roll out distance is NOT Pi of the diameter and this reference treats it as if it were. That is a 31" tire will have a rollout of something less but how much? Some places like Tire Rack will have that information for a specific tire. 

 

That said even if off by an inch or so the rpm will be pretty darn close for the ratios I've given. 

Ok kinda get it I’ll definitely have to read more on this to make sure I get the right gears for my truck

Posted

A tune is required when changing gears and tire size. So whoever does the tune should be able to get it shifting good.

 

I think the computer/ABS may freak out if you actually put 37's into the tune though, I forget if they can put 35's in the calibration have it be fine and just deal with a slightly off speedo.

Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

A tune is required when changing gears and tire size. So whoever does the tune should be able to get it shifting good.

 

I think the computer/ABS may freak out if you actually put 37's into the tune though, I forget if they can put 35's in the calibration have it be fine and just deal with a slightly off speedo.

Got my truck tuned already, and tires size calibrated already but needa regear and get another tune after I install my exhaust since I’ve done a cold air intake.

Edited by Frankielozano214

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 698 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...